| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
27443-00Y is the stock number - if that doesn't work, just ask for the sportster coupling? GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Sarodude |
I don't think that specific coupling is used on any other Harley or Buell. Suggestion: Electrical tape for now (that's how I rode mine for like 500 miles with no leaks since I bought it with a MASSIVE tear) + mail order 2 of 'em. Of course, this is assuming that you have proper carb support - and I believe that only the stock airbox provides proper support. Anyway... -Saro PS - do not overtighten the hose clamps. make 'em snug & stop. | ||
| Jprovo |
The Sportster has a much different gasket setup. The coupling is Blast Specific. James | ||
| Rcontroler |
I have not modified the intake/airbox. All stock. It went 8700 miles from new. I noticed some tiny fretting at the clamps 2 weeks ago and wondered how much more time I had before it crapped out. Now I know. Have ordered 2 from HD/Buell where I bought the bike. I was kinda pissed that none were in stock. edited by rcontroler on March 26, 2004 | ||
| Rcontroler |
>Thanks for the info. and tightening tip. | ||
| Joey |
Despite blowing my carburetor off with a backfire, my hose seems to still be intact. I'm closing on 17K. I suppose I should start watching it! | ||
| Rcontroler |
The UPS guy brought a new coupler today that I had a dealer in NC send me. It is installed and she runs great. | ||
| Swampy |
Hey, I've been off for a week now, Windows 98 you know? I have been working with the carb on the Big Kids bike and I finally got the needle shimmed. That made the most difference, I backed out of it at 95+ MPH the other day(Speedo reading). I have been having difficulty getting a tan colored plug reading, even with a 175 main jet and 48 slow jet it comes out white. The carb mounting boot is not cracked. any ideas? Ignition timing? | ||
| Ezblast |
You have access to any dyno with an AF sniffer? - that could help you a lot. Modern fuels are wierd and the old plug check method only works about half the time now a days - all those fuel additives. Usually all you would need is 1 run to see where you are at and 1 run doesn't cost that much. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Tdshepard |
Could you guys with a parts manual help me out? Is the float bowl screw on a Blast part number 27579-88A ?? Thanks!! | ||
| Swampy |
Tdshepard, It is easier to just go down to the local hardware store and buy some metric allen head screws. Buy a couple of nuts in case you have to shorten them. It works much better as the allen heads are hard and won't strip. | ||
| Tdshepard |
I already have the allen head screws. I just want to be sure they fit all of the CV carbs and I know the big twin and sporty number is 27579-88A Thanks! | ||
| Carcass |
Ok, ok, ok... I just put in a 180 main jet about two weeks ago, and I swear to you it has more full throttle power. I get better gas mileage too. (15-20 more) I did the "stock airbox mod" and all I can assume is that the plastic thing on the left side is acting like an air scoop. The reason I did this, is I was riding home at night with a buddy riding behind me, and said my V&H SS2R baffle was glowing red! Now, I know what you're thinking: Intake leak?! Nope, I just replaced the intake manifold! No intake leaks whatsoever; believe me, I checked. (See my post about reversing Diode #2 so you can start the bike with one hand...) Furthermore, the SS2R pipe is only 1 month old. The old one had the baffle blow out, which makes me think I've been running way too hot/lean for some time... So I think about it. On a Dyno WITHOUT forced air, it would want a smaller main. However, with an 80 MPH wind blowing in that plastic cover thingy... It pulls strongly up to 95 now. I did NOT raise the needle, however. All I've done so far is: EZ's airbox mod, 45 slow, 180 main, totally gotten rid of the oil breather system going back into the carb. (I plugged that little airbox hole, and just have the crank hose going to a little K&N hanging above the air intake. If it drips, it probably gets sucked into the airbox...) It's running cooler down the freeway too. Food for thought. -Mark  | ||
| Joey |
I just did the airbox mod, and I'm noticing it pulls better on the highway, too! Already did the 45/175 mod. Spark plug is a nice dusty gray color, making me think I might try the 180, or maybe I should adjust that screw at the bottom? | ||
| Ezblast |
Try adjusting the screw first - between 2 to 2 1/2 turns - then try the jet - what is the header size? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Light_keeper |
I have done mine 45 /170 and the screw 2 1/2 turns as per EZ and what a difference. This is a different bike now. Sandy | ||
| Joey |
Header is 1 7/8", going to 1 3/4" in about 2". I'll do the screw next time I get a chance. | ||
| Naustin |
OK, i'm just a little perplexed. I'm learning about carbs etc. in preparation for rejetting and gutting the airbox. I'm going to rejet as soon as I do the airbox, so when I get the exhaust, the jetting is already done. Here's the question. Why, when every person on BADWEB and every other website on the planet say you should richen the mixture with better breathing mods, does DynoJet say this: "*Due to the design of this motorcycle, when changing either the exhaust or the airbox, it is necessary to lean out the main jet. If you have any questions please call Dynojet." I figured out the whole crap about how their "155" main jet is a different numbering system from our 170 main jet - and that I understand. But they say, directly - you should lean the main jet if you install an exhaust or modified intake -- implying that though their numbering system is different, their 155 is still leaner than than stock. Furthermore, they say nothing about adjusting the pilot jet. Can anyone tell me why they say to lean the main jet?? Is it that in combination with their new emulsion tube, slide spring and needle, the whole carb is naturally richer and therefore requires a leaner main jet - whereas we need a richer jet since we continue to use the stock main jet holder, spring and needle??? If so, is the DynoJet system actually better since it does have an upgraded holder, needle and slide spring? Obviously they wouldn't actually be Leaning the end result fuel mixture. So, maybe getting a richer fuel mixture their way (with a leaner main jet) and upgraded emulsion tube, spring and needle results in a better tuned carb over the entire rpm range and in the "real world".  Maybe I should call DynoJet and Talk to a Tech... edited by naustin on June 24, 2004 | ||
| Ezblast |
Dynojet sucks - my opinion - only way it ever works out is using their kit and tuning on a dyno - get your money back, buy a 45 primary and perhaps a 175 - total 15 bucks (your stock 170 may work fine) - value saved 50 bucks or more (not counting 50 bucks per dyno run to dial that jet kit in - lol), and the knowledge that you know right where your carb is - priceless. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (A link to some notes on jetting - http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/62931.html?1088054168) edited by ezblast on June 24, 2004 | ||
| Naustin |
I believe you, EZ, that the 45/170-175 jets are working right for everyone, and that it is tested by time and lots of people. My question however, is WHAT is the technical explanation for the difference in DynoJet's approach i.e. the leaner main jet, and WHY do they do it that way?? BTW: I emailed my questions to DynoJet and am awaiting a reply from their tech staff. edited by naustin on June 24, 2004 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I'm glad you contacted Dynojet. Maybe they will give us some tech info to support what you ask (especially if they want to sell more kits). | ||
| Naustin |
Here is what the DynoJet Tech emailed back to me: "Couple of reasons, 1- bike manufactures lean out the mid range and over richen the main to protect the motor and meet epa rules, 2- you are correct in that our emulsion tube and needle are different and will change the fuel delivery drastically over the stock, 3- the screw on the carb is a fuel mixture screw not air and by putting a larger pilot and opening it up it can cause the bike to load up and stall under decell driving conditions, 4- yes our jet numbering system is different than stock." He really didn't answer my questions very well. One helpful thing he did say is this: "You are correct in that our emulsion tube and needle are different and will change the fuel delivery drastically over the stock". So, we can assume the following: DynoJet uses leaner main jet in combination with a different needle to maintain the proper fuel mixture. They do this rather than a bigger pilot with the stock needle (45/170) to avoid possible stall under decell conditions. The guy says it can cause the bike to load up and stall under decell driving conditions. There is no apparent definitive answer as to whether 45/170 or the DynoJet system is better. Especially since I haven't heard of the decell stall problem DynoJet is worried about... (Unless, rather than stalling under decell as DynoJet worried, our bikes are manifesting the problem by backfiring and blowing their carburators off. -- which has happened to a few people.) More evidence is really required before you could say it was because of the problem that DynoJet mentions with decel loading and stall thing.) Anybody here have the DynoJet kit installed??? | ||
| Lpd22 |
Just installed a blast pro series air cleaner. Looks nice till you knock the carb off the intake boot. What's up with that engineering foopah!?. So how do I keep my son's bike running without reattaching the carb every ride? Thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
Get a new intake boot and clamps and see the top of this section for a mounting system - other types have been done as well - solid bracketry (forces on bracket may quicken tears instead)so be aware of how you would mount solid brackets. Up dated that whole carb section to better reflect common jetting for current exhausts, and carb ideas. The Dial jet still smells of expensive snake oil - with a Dyno no better than a bike with a simple jet change and maybe a needle shim - thats a rather large savings to my mind. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
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| Bikediver |
I'm hearing what my Brit cousins call "banging in the silencer", i.e. popping in the exhaust when I back off the throttle on my 2001 Blast (stock except for the seat). Should I uncover the idle mixture screw and adjust the mixture to get rid of the noise or just enjoy it? | ||
| Ezblast |
Stock doesn't usually do that - possible exhaust leak - check torque on header bolts. Then if that doesn't do it - yes adjust. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jprovo |
I got a little of that with the stock exhaust. I wouldn't worry about it, but you should be able to tune it out with the idle mix screw. | ||
| Bikediver |
Thanx Just had the muffler off (again) and torqued the header bolts to spec, but exhaust leak is a definite possibility. I listened through a cardboard tube for telltale puffing around the headers. Any other suggestions for checking for leaks. | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Hey, didja know that when the carb/manifold boot is torn, the bike makes alot of bad noises, idles too fast, dies, and generaly sux. Yup, my boot is torn. gonna order two of them in the morning. I was able to rig it to work, turned the boot upside down (to have carb wieght hold the cut closed, and clamped it down good). I have got to get me some effective carb bracing (yes, i know there are multiple writeups on how this is done, i'm just lazy lol) SSDD. sure is fun to wring out this blast though  |
