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Prag_b
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2004 - 04:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DO YOU HAVE A DIRECT LINK OR SOMETHING TO THOSE, I SEARCHED UNDER BARS AND A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS POPPED UP... I WANT TO ORDER THOSE TODAY...
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2004 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK -
go to Chaparral direct and type into their search engine - superbike handlebars - you'll get above -
http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Chaparral/assets/html/homepage.asp?URLCheck=1
Hope that helps!
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Prag_b
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2004 - 05:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok gotcha.. I just typed in handlebars and got everyone one that they sell 468 of them
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Prag_b
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 12:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What are your thoughts on the Kerker exhaust compared to the Buell Pro exhaust.. I like the mid range boost the Pro gives you, but I want a custom exhaust that looks like a custom exhaust.. the pro exhaust looks to factory.. is there a huge performance difference between the 2 or would either one be a good choice...
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Buell Pro: Built like the original-should last a long time-nice sound-good price(from my experience).
Kerker: No access to drain plug and chain adjuster bolts-low to ground-reported to rust out easily (from the various reports I've read).
I chose the Buell over the Kerker after spending too much time on exhaust maintenance (White Brothers) and wanted something that would last.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 02:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It really depends on where you feel you want to go with the bike - if you think you may want to go with other cams, perhaps headwork, maybe even big bore - then you'd have to go with the Kerker because of its ease to be modified for further performance gains down the line. If you want the ultimate in reliable performance, with the ability to enhance the performance of the otherPro series/Screaming Eagle items for the Blast (add beter valve guides and springs as well - so you can use the ignition as well;0)) and have a custom factory look.

In general the performance rating for existing exhausts is: Best - Wileyco (unobtainable so far - waiting for someone to get a line on getting them in to the US), Kerker, D&D, Pro - series, then the V&H is last - still better than the stocker though.
Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ
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Prag_b
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does the Kerker have to be repacked over time like the V&H? Or is it just a bolt on and go application
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It would need repacking sooner or later also - please note - the Kerker is not an easy exhaust to work on, it gets a top performance rating because with modifications - ditch the crossover tube and their can, and atatch the can of your choice to that excellent header - it is capable of being a hi performance exhaust - it has the correct needed dimensions.

All that said - for total bolt and go all around dailly usage for a stock Blast would be the Pro - series - we are talking about total trouble free reliability.
Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ
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Prag_b
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 05:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well the Pro Series is on backorder from my local dealers and E-bay had a Kerker at a good price so I picked it up... if in 6 months it starts givin' me problems I'll do a Pro-Series at that time or get info from you on a can replacement and such... But for now I'll just deal with the quirks of the Kerker... Thanks for all the help.. I ordered the handlebars yesterday also, can't wait to get everything installed... Am I correct in re-jetting the carb to a 170 main and 45 pilot... and are there any links to an air intake mod so I can get that taken care of also...
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On the Kerker that jetting is fine, maybe go 175 - if you wish - check the thumper KV procedures section for the air box mods.
Enjoy the ride!
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Prag_b
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 06:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I read on here that on the `02 models it already has a 170 main, so all I have to do is the 45 pilot, correct? and would I need to do the 2 1/2 turn idle adjustment also?
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, and yes. However, I now note in the carb KV section that a better jet combination is the 175 - with equal performance, the richer jet will protect the engine more in any suddenly developed lean conditions.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ

edited by ezblast on June 27, 2004
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 07:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

FYI - I talked with Lou C./Ravensmith22 the other day - he's doing the rehab thing and keeping busy - he should be back on line soon, so I'll let him fill you in on details. I thought I'd let you know though that his spirits are high and that he is working hard to get well so he can ride again - though that will still be a while away.

Be carefull out there - all of ya - maybe its the economy, politics, or some social factor - but folks are'nt paying attention out there, and there has been a large breakout of motorcycle accidents this last year - ride like your invisable!
Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ
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Prag_b
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2004 - 07:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the assistance...
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Swampy
Posted on Friday, June 25, 2004 - 10:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Off the Blast topic a little but.....
I went out to do a little wrenching on the Sporty and when I get finished I thought I would clean the rear wheel, and I found a broken spoke!!!
Now I have to tell you, I just had the rear wheel relaced last August due to broken spokes(Around $225!)

1.)Why do spokes break?
2.)What other wheels fit? Tapered-VS-Sealed wheel bearings?
3.)Will 3.5" wheels fit?
Oh what joy and happiness!

I hope the Big Kid is working tomorrow so I can ride the Blast. I have been working away from home this week and the weather is finaly clearing.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2004 - 01:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spokes break due to normal wear and tear (fatigue), its their nature.However if you are not using stock (OEM) wheels, breaking spokes will become a way of life depending on the quality of the wheel and/or spokes.Stock (factory) wheels dont have as much of a problem, but when one spoke breaks it will start taking others with it.
Yes a 3.5 wheel (even a 4" should)fit,but unless you get a quality wheel the spoke problem will still occur.(you may have a tire to belt clearance problem if you use wider tires but there are a few ways to solve that too).
I do not have the info on what fits what but Sportsters and FXRs share a few parts as well with some other big twins and its not usually that hard to figure out.(a couple of good parts catalogues should help). Stick with the same bearing style and it will help solve future repair problems.

edited by gearheaderiko on June 27, 2004
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Swampy
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2004 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think there was a mismatch between the hub and wheel.
I have a friend who had a Fat Boy wheel laying around. That fit in just fine. Now I don't have to polish spokes anymore.
Edgar Allen Poe....Nevermore, Nevermore.

sporty
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Prag_b
Posted on Monday, June 28, 2004 - 04:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got the superbike bars installed and the clutch is now way out of whack.. is this normal??? It used to engage with the clutch lever barely out.. now it wont engage until it's all the way out... pretty freaky... I got used to it the way it was and now it is like learning it all over again... if I follow the procedures on bcrider.com to adjust the clutch can I get it to feel like it used to again, or is it going to stay like this because of the shorter bars??
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, June 28, 2004 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No - its not because of the bars - your adjustment some how worked its way loose - if you droped it on that side - that could have done it. Sounds like the cable movement loosened it more. Just Follow the Manuals instructions for adjustment - easy - and you'll be fine.
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Newblaster
Posted on Monday, June 28, 2004 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had the same thing happen when I switched out my bars. I had some trouble getting the clutch off, and probably tweaked it a bit, dunno if that's what happened with yours...
Just readjust it, and you'll be back to normal.
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Swampy
Posted on Monday, June 28, 2004 - 07:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did the cable sheath move out of the adjuster sleeve?
Got pictures?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, June 28, 2004 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Spokes:
Could have been a mismatch, but more likely poor quality spokes, rim or relace(no offense). It's really a moot point now though.Looks nice!
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2004 - 11:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Happy Fourth of July! I hope everybody enjoys the holiday and has fun. I'll be checking out a parade, then a BBQ, then fireworks - a full day of celebrating freedom, and friends - be careful, but have fun!
Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ
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Joey
Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2004 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Question of the day:

I've passed 18K, and I'm wondering what I should do. What should I expect to fail soon enough that it would be wise to have spares on hand? It seems like all I've had to worry about is rubber things and a mounting bolt so far. I am about to get new ear plugs, too...
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Desmo450
Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2004 - 12:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Joey, I guess if you made it that far, you are doing better than the law of averages. If you've been following the maint schedule as per the owners manual, you should be ok.

But coming up for you, is the BIG 20K mile service. Which includes a fork oil change, and steering head bearing repack and tightening. Don't skip those, especially if you might have already skipped torquing the steering head bearings on a regular basis.

Also, have you replaced your drive belt and rear sprocket yet ?

-the other "Joe" D.
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Jprovo
Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2004 - 03:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Joey,

Just keep on riding, andfollow the service maunal's maint schedule. Keep an eye on wheel bearings and the front isolator. Mine's been faily relaible for the 26+K that I've ridden.

James
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Swampy
Posted on Wednesday, July 07, 2004 - 10:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Guys!
I get the phone call to go pick the Big Kid up the Blast was broke!
When I get there the bike starts, shifts but does not go! I think failed clutch!
Anyways, I get it home, and go through the adjust the clutch routine and everything seems to be working fine now! The primary fluid was smoke flavored! Big Kid isn't talking as to what he did, just that he is Pissed off cause the bike keeps breaking down. I think he was slipping the clutch while he was driving.(You have to remember, He IS working against me on all this) His mom should have loved him more. I don't think I am going to let him drive my pickup truck anymore either. Anyone want to go riding? I need a new partner.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2004 - 12:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What does the rear tire look like? Hmm -
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2004 - 01:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it went down the tilt switch could have been stuck/shorted/worked, then reset itself later - has happened - just a thought, or also if down on the left the clutch could have re-adjusted/loosened itself with a little ground action as well. (Also shows too many times down myself - lol)
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Joey
Posted on Thursday, July 08, 2004 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Belt broke at 15070 miles, exactly! Was I supposed to replace the pully? Next thing you're going to tell me is that I'm not supposed to reuse the screws that hold the pully on when I change the tire!

The garage should be finished by the time I reach the 20K mark. I'd like to just take the whole thing completely apart, but I like riding it too much!
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