| Author | Message | ||
     Biggsammy13 |
at least it's fairly light, I was on flat ground and wasn't too bad to push. Was headed out for a 30 minute ride to get the primary chain adjustment completed (or at least gain experience to someday get it right) when all of a sudden bike dies. That's weird...before the ride it started up fine and idled fairly well. I tried to start it to get it going, thinking it was a mere snag in what was going to be a fun ride around the neighborhood. Engine turns, but not firing. Just purchased this a few days ago and have not fiddled with anything other than the primary chain, previous owner ran new fluids, put in a new plug and air filter. I made sure that there was gas in the tank (nearly full) but tried starting on reserve anyway...no workie. My M2 would do something similar when I had let it sit for a while (previous owner had it sitting for 8 months) so sprayed some carb cleaner in the intake and quick burst in the carb, still wouldn't fire. any thoughts as to the culprit of this problem? Thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
Is the ignition lighting? Plug wire tight? Grounds tight? EZ | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
spark plug wire has good connection on both ends battery ground is on tight oil switch ground is tight not able to locate engine ground strap here is a video to the sounds I'm getting when trying to start: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyrVeUexs68 thanks for the help. | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
also - I put mid grade in it yesterday, all the gas station had when I rolled up on fumes  | ||
| Titusand |
The answer is no I'm sure, but did you check the fuel shut off below the tank? I got stranded (on my own street) first ride this spring because of that! I walked it home, filled it with fresh gas, then checked the shut-off....! | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
yup - that was the first thing I checked, even tried starting it with the reserve on, still no vroom vroom. pulled the airbox cover off to see if perhaps this was a das boot problem, as I've read so much about....I'm not feeling suction with my hand over the carb (do I need to completely cover and seal with my hand? - I simply held it between the breather T and the carb and didn't feel a thing). I am, however, feeling air coming out of the stock breather T, aiming right back into the carb. Also put my hand in where the air filter goes, not much suction there either. **update** - took timing cover off and LED is flashing, making me believe plug is good. any ideas on which next steps to take to isolate/id. the problem? as always, thanks again. (Message edited by biggsammy13 on July 06, 2011) | ||
| Ezblast |
How long has it been sitting - bad gas? - Check and replace boot if it looks old, or is not new. Was bike a daily runner or has it sat a while. Front ground is by your isolator left side and battery ground is by battery left side. Dis able safeties to rule them out - flip center diode and cut and twist kickstand wires together & tape up to disable that. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on July 06, 2011) | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
it was sitting for nearly 8 months the former owner said. Gas was alright for me to ride around on it for like 30 miles or so. It died on me yesterday from work (thought it was the gas, so flipped over to Reserve and filled up with mid grade) jumped back on the bike and drove it a good 7 miles home. then when taking out for the 30 minute primary adjustment ride it died on me 1/4 mile in. Perhaps when it died previously it wasn't from low gas (I only put in a little over a gallon before it was full). Don't think the boot is new and since it has been sitting out for a long while in the Texas +100 heat, I'm sure it could be replaced. That paired with the lack of suction from my carb makes me believe I should get it changed. both battery ground and front ground are secured. I'm guessing the diode is the plastic male female connection along the wire running from under the seat to kickstand? would I unplug that, reverse it, plug it back in? then cut and twist wires together? cut above the diode or below? thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
No - just cut and twist the kickstand wires together, take off seat find fuse box and flip center diode, definitely replace boot. I'd drain everything gas wise, including the carb and start fresh - lol - EZ | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
thanks EZ - twisted wires together and flipped the diode, still not running - at least im getting well acquainted with the bike  I'll drain the existing gas and replace the boot..Hope HD has it in stock | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
well what do you know...HD does sell something other than chrome  they had a few boots in stock | ||
| Titusand |
I've been watching this thread. Oh, boy. Good luck. It's easy to hate problems like this. Can the carb flood on a Blast? Is there a gas odor, that is I mean, is there any indication gas is getting into the cylinder? (Message edited by titusand on July 07, 2011) | ||
| Titusand |
Have you seen the spark? On a Blast, can you do this, like in a car: remove the spark plug boot and watch it spark to the frame? Or do you have a spark detector? Harbor Freight Tools has them for under $10 I think, as do auto parts stores. | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
" It's easy to hate problems like this." -No worries here, I have an M2 that I ride daily and the blast is a fun project...I'm getting my money's worth now  but really am enjoying exploring this bike and getting to know it better mechanically...I must thank the rest of the members for putting up with all of my questions and giving me valuable input...especially EZ and GearHead There is a small gas odor but I did pull the tank cover off and attempted to pry the tank off..so it could just be that. I haven't seen the actual spark plug spark, I did however pull the timing cover off and see the LED illuminating while trying to start. I may have read it incorrectly but I thought that mean the spark plug was sparking. (previously read somewhere in the KV) | ||
| Titusand |
I'll admit, I also do look forward to mechanical problems, it gives me a chance to rejuvenate some system. I checked out your Youtube video, and the sound is just right of the mechanical parts, so I'm thinking it must be fuel or spark. I would really verify if spark is coming through the wire. I don't know what this LED is but obviously it is only an indicator and not the actual spark. | ||
| Ezblast |
So - the results? EZ | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
haven't done the boot yet...will drain the gas first, remove petcock and check to see if clogged...then refill and see if it fires. update to come. | ||
| Swampy |
Instead of removing the petcock, just put some gas in it and turn it on. | ||
| Ezblast |
lol!!!!!!!! | ||
| Titusand |
OK Swampy, I'm blaming you for this: is the petcock a two-stroker or a four-stroker? | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
alright...so I drained the gas, changed das boot (which looked to be in good condition) and checked the spark plug. Plug is from HD and is new however, not securely fastened, could unscrew it without any tools(thought I was reading somewhere that there is really only 1 type of reliable plug for this bike but that may be incorrect). Picked up 3/4 gallon of premium...and...no blast off spark plugs? ignition module - was reading a little on this thread and symptoms seem to be similar...however would rather not spend that much on a module if not entirely necessary http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/597864.html?1253292654 other possibilities? Thanks. | ||
| Titusand |
Have you seen yet spark coming from the wire or used a spark detector? | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
that I have not, do I leave the wire to the plug connected, disconnect the other end and touch it to the frame? | ||
| Ezblast |
Just the opposite - lol EZ | ||
| Titusand |
Don't hold the wire when you do that, by the way. Just leave hanging near metal. You should get a short spark that will jump to the metal during every 2nd revolution of the motor. If that's what you get, then check the compression with a compression tester, you can buy one for about the price any one will charge you for the service, then if that is OK (how many ft lbs of pressure should there be in a Blast? In car you should see at least 125-130 on a motor with quite a few miles). If it's below 100, you have an internal problem. Then the fuel delivery must be checked, which is a whole story itself. Given the good sound the bike makes during starting, these are your three areas of concern: 1- spark, 2- compression, 3- fuel delivery. This order goes from easiest to check to hardest. These three areas are not related to the safety systems of the bike, such as the switch at the kickstand. As between these three problems, the issues in order of likelihood are: 1- fuel, 2- spark, 3- compression. | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
Ok - went home for lunch to test it out I left the plug wire hanging near the frame - No spark brought over my metal rear wheel stand - put the wire on that (tried to start) - no spark this would mean I need a new ignition coil, correct? anyone know PN? Thanks. (Message edited by biggsammy13 on July 08, 2011) (Message edited by biggsammy13 on July 08, 2011) | ||
| Titusand |
This will lead you down the right path, knowing there is no spark. As for why no spark.... now you have to chase that down but now, obviously, you have limited your search to a small number of parts. The goal is to determine where the failure is before you buy parts. | ||
| Ezblast |
The manual has a series of easy tests that will determine what is wrong. EZ | ||
| Biggsammy13 |
I have it narrowed down to these possible culprits (from least expensive to most expensive) -ignition fuse (location? is this located with all the other fuses?) -coil -ignition module any others to add to the lineup? | ||
| Titusand |
Well if you haven't done this test before, FYI, I would normally have the cable 1/4 in. or maximum 1/2 in. away from the frame or other large metal part attached thereto. If you had it farther than that, I don't know with certainty if the spark would jump that far. |
