| Author | Message | ||
     Videoninja |
I got my blast back together with the 515 kit (again) and it ran fine for 10 mile +/- and then it wouldn't start again. After threatening to sell it I have decided to dig in and figure out what the problem is. This is what I have found and what i need help with. I pulled the rocker box cover off and found the pushrods were not moving........ I pulled the cam cover off and found that the cam gear (#7 in the illustration) on the drive shaft was not turning but the oil pump drive gear was as was the oil pump. I removed said cam gear and found that the key (#6) was broken. Next I thought YAY!!  thats will cost like a buck. Then i tried to remove the oil pump drive gear to get to the key and apparently it is bent and preventing the removal of the oil pump drive gear. My question is does anyone have any suggestions as to removing the drive gear. I don't really mind destroying the oil pump drive gear if necessary. I can replace it with the updated one. OPS - I am also posting this in the main page knowledge vault because someone w/o a blast may be able to help.   | ||
| Swampy |
pull the oil pump first, then the gear should slide off the crank. Now to get that mess all back together and running again, you will need a locking tool to re-tighten the crank nut. Make sure you find out why the key sheared or you will probably be doing it over again. Look at everything real close, make sure the valves are working, the rocker arms, the lifters, and the oil pump is turning. Then when you start that baby up, make sure you are not wringing the snot out of it when the oil is still cold. | ||
| Videoninja |
The key is preventing the drive gear removal I believe it is bent (the key). I know this because i did remove the oil pump and the drive gear is still stuck will move back and forth maybe a quarter inch | ||
| Swampy |
Rig up a two or three jaw puller, or try prying it off with a ladyfoot pry bar. Make sure you don't bend the crank though. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Did the drive gear spin on the shaft? If so you need to get it lined up with the key again (but, I'm sure you've already done this). If its lined up, the Swampy's way sounds good. Or you can very carefully cut it off. The key will likely be even more difficult to remove  This occurrence (or the like) is apparently common in racing and elsewhere on Badweb it touts a remedy, but I would put it back together stock, making sure you use the red Loctite. My key went at 7000 rpm and bent both valves, taking a valve guide out too. However, mine went because a titanium spring retainer failed (stupid cheap titanium- LOL!) and shock loaded the gear to break loose and spin. The valve being stuck open is what bent it. I'm hoping your valves were luckier. You'll know pretty quick after you get the gear back on. NOTE: you dont have to bolt everything up tight to check for bent parts. The old key (or new) will probably still hold the gear in place so you can see if anything is bent. I'd probably put everything back together enough just to spin the engine over and check. No sense in bolting it all up pretty, just to pull it apart. If you have (get) a leakdown tester, you can test the valves without spinning it over or even putting it back together. Just make sure they are both closed (or should be). Definitely update the gear. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Step on the rear brake in 5th gear. That will hold the engine so you can tighten that nut. |
