| Author | Message | ||
     Evilbetty |
Those pages and this video helped a lot to help me visualize this work. Ready to attack it tomorrow!  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXKUT9HeRnM | ||
| Ezblast |
Nice Vid - added link to top for reference. EZ | ||
| Evilbetty |
I "think" it went well. Doing it still attached was the way to go, IF you have the right screwdrivers. Finding a phillips with a large enough head but short enough shaft (I can hear the snickering) was a challenge, luckily I had a #2 stubby that fit well. Then finding a slotted with just the perfect head and short enough shaft took some digging through the junk screwdriver drawer, but I finally found one that did the trick in both jets. Won't get to fire it up and see what I fouled until I find a exhaust clamp for the Jardine.  | ||
| Ezblast |
Any auto parts store. EZ | ||
| Evilbetty |
I checked Auto Zone, O'Reilly, and Parts America. All they had was regular steel clamps for auto exhaust. No stainless T-clamps. | ||
| Evilbetty |
I went a head and picked up one of those U-Bolt style steel clamps till I can track down the proper T-clamp... Bike is running clean and strong. It's not pulling wheelies, but it's definitely got a bit more power. Thanks guys! | ||
| Evilbetty |
Running great with one weird fluke. Patty rode it for a 150 miles or so today and when she got home there was fuel dripping out of the air box, and evidence of a oil fuel mixture on the peg arm, air box cover, and primary gear cover. I opened up the air box and there was a small puddle in there, and the filter had obviously had something dripping on it. Any ideas? | ||
| Buellistic |
Take the head breather hose out of the intake system and run it into a catch container and that will take care of the oil ... Next check the timing, a stock BLAST runs better with the timing mark just coming into the rear of the timing plug hole ... If you do not have a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK, plus learning to be your own MECHANIC, you should !!! | ||
| Evilbetty |
Well I can't call the bike stock anymore not that the carb has been jetted and exhaust replaced with a Jardine RT-One. The oil doesn't bother me so much. I think it's supposed to be blowing into the carb isn't it? The gas sitting in the air box though is a new one. Bike has never done that before. The jetting and exhaust change didn't cause this did it? Or maybe something I caused when jetting and shimming? (Please don't say I need to adjust the float!  ) I do have the Service and Parts manuals and do most of the work on the bike (minus top isolators!) | ||
| Buellistic |
STOCK, meaning the engine it's self is still in OEM state, jetting and exhaust system just allow the engine to run better ... Sucking oil into the intake charge pollutes it ... Never ran into a float that was not set up correctly from the CARBURETOR MANUFACTURE ... Still suggest checking the timing as it is a starting point, static is the cleanest way ... Isolators are easy to change ... | ||
| Swampy |
You will find alot of intake reversion when you are lugging the Blast engine, that may be the cause of fuel to puddle in the airbox. The crankcase vent tube does not belong in the air box, move it some where else to do its vile thing. If you route the hose as high up in the frame and then down to never-never land alot of the oil will stay in the engine. Plus when you get the Blast boken in 5,000 or so miles it will start running better and puking less oil. | ||
| Ezblast |
That or keeping the rpms above 5500rpms for extended periods - lol EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
How do you that when a BLAST does not come with a TACH. and you have not put a TACH. on yet ??? The REV. limiter is set at 6500 RPM on an OEM Ign. module which puts the RPMs within 1000 RPM of MAXing the REV. limiter ... If one has a problem of lugging the engine, they should install a lower gearing ... Say that is not possible, will a smaller tooth SPORTSTER motor sprocket will retrofit ... Now you say, how can you raise the gearing ??? A XB12X motor sprocket will retrofit and my BLAST has it ... | ||
| Blake |
"How do you that when a BLAST does not come with a TACH. and you have not put a TACH. on yet ???" Count real fast! (2750 thumps per minute) | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - I have a tach on my one bike and now know what revs by sound is where on rpms. EZ | ||
| Evilbetty |
Ok I'll work on moving the vent tube. The fuel in the airbox is new though since I changed the jetting and exhaust. I have to think it was something I did working on the carb. It looks as if the flow for sure was coming from the mouth of the carb. Patty also said she's running out of gas now at 80miles, were she was 100 to 120miles before. | ||
| Buellistic |
If you drill out the slide hole with an 1/8 inch drill, away goes your gas mileage of which no one tells you until after you have done it !!! You can jet for a 12 to 1 fuel/air ratio and still get reasonable gas mileage if you stay off the throttle with an un-drilled slide ... (Message edited by buellistic on April 28, 2010) | ||
| Buellistic |
Blake: Are you trying to cause a case of asperger syndrome on the site ??? MAY THE LONG LASTING HARLEY-DAVIDSON BLAST/BUELL BE WITH YOU'LL !!!" In BUELLing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on April 28, 2010) | ||
| Ezblast |
Check your float isn't tweeked. Take airbox off, place a small piece of board level behind your jug and front of or across your starter - you want the board fairly level, so that you can check your float level accurately - see instructions above to adjust float if needed, then re-assemble. Happens - I have done it a total of 3 times myself. fixed it the 2nd and 3rd times - its easy. EZ | ||
| Evilbetty |
What's the "jug"? And with this board, am I checking the float with the carb still on the bike? Interesting  I barely bumped the float one time with my screwdriver... BARELY... Is it also possible that when I was shimming I knocked some crud into the jet or may be having a problem with the washers I used? If I'm going to adjust the float is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? As always... thanks for all your help guys *Another video I found interesting (which lead me to this "crud" idea LOL. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0sZ32EVUYY | ||
| Trufflehyla |
Thanks to these forums I am now much happier with my blast. I no longer have to creep up hills or fight with the headwinds. Originally when I did my upgrades they were almost concurrent. Gutted Stock Intake with K&N Jardine Exhaust with Quiet Core 45/175 with 2 washers for the needle When I installed the Yost Powertube there was a very distinctive hesitation when you get on the throttle. Since I did everything together, I put the stock tube back on and Its been fine for a month or so. There may still be some hesistation but its minimal vs nearly a second. I put the yost back on last night and its back to the hesitation. Do I need to start with the low speed jet or the shims? Current Jets are harley parts and Yost I have is CV40 Rev 1 (Message edited by trufflehyla on April 29, 2010) | ||
| Ezblast |
Is that hesitation always or just in the first 10 to 15 minutes of riding? EZ | ||
| Trufflehyla |
Its consistent throughout a longer ride although I think that it does lessen. | ||
| Athens_blaster |
Well, I finally found out why my boot has been giving me so many problems. I just got my new one in the mail, and apparently the previous owner of the bike had just cut some rubber tubing and decided to use that as the boot. I have it now and ready to install, I have been looking around for almost 40 minutes now looking for EZblast's instructions for pulling the carb out a little and putting the boot on. Ive seen it being referenced twice but I have not been able to find the actual file. If someone could post the link to the instructions I would very very much appreciate it. Thanks all | ||
| Cliffburton |
truff,it sounds like your yost neddle is to rich.I installed a yost kit on my blast and kept making the nedlle richer.The more I did it the more the bike bogged down.I had to lean it out a couple notches and it was fine.Which color neddle are you using?Blue or red.Blue is for stock, red is for a race application. | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/150578.html?1272435828  | ||
| Trufflehyla |
I am using stock needle shimmed to about .05 | ||
| Buellistic |
Have a question ??? Does any one ever check the timing on their engine before they start tuning on their carburetor ??? | ||
| Ezblast |
I did, some do, some don't, not really considered necessary if everything is running really smooth. A stock needle is pretty lean, however, try removing one shim - make sure they are no larger than #4 washers regular, or machined brass #6 - regular #6 are irregular and can be too large - giving you an effect similar to what you describe. A 46 pilot could be more advantageous as well, since the Yost Tube accents the fluctuations of the Auto-Enrichner/auto-choke as it cycles through to off. Usually the first 10 minutes of riding - lol - once warmed up, she's fine as wine, and that's with a stack and splitter as well and 48 pilot 180 main and shimmed to 0.05 with brass machined #6 washers. | ||
| Buellistic |
The unknowing and technicians do not check to make sure it is correct !!! ie: Checked a friends timing new off the show room floor, timing was slow as the timing mark was just going out of the timing plug hole(slow as in "TOO RETARDED !!!) ... ie: another friend had just had H-D Dealer technician install a new IGN. module of which "i" checked with my timing lite witch can be advanced plus or minus one degree at a time ... WELL, IT WAS 9 DEGREES SLOW(RETARDED !!!) ... When "i" got my used 2000 BLAST, that was the "FIRST TUNING STEP" done ... "YES", the timing was also slow on it as the timing mark was between the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL recommendation and going out of the timing mark hole("RETARDED") ... "SO", if you want a "HALF ARSE'ED" tuned BLAST as you will get, then that is what you deserve "A HALF ARSE'ED RUNNING BLAST" !!! And the questions begin, HELP ME AS MY BLAST STILL WILL NOT RUN RIGHT NO MATTER HOW THE CARBURETOR IS JETTED("TUNED") ??? |
