| Author | Message | ||
     Dann |
02 There are two other things not mentioned that could cause this. One is the bank angle sensor(never caused me a problem) Two is the side stand safety switch(when new my blast would not go over 65 without doing what you are describing). I disabled both switches on mine. This is very easily done by unplugging the switches and inserting a jumper wire. I am not suggesting you do this permenantly like I did but it might help eliminate two possible causes by doing this and seeing if the problem goes away. In my case as I said it was the sidestand switch causing my problem. Sorry for not posting sooner. Dan | ||
| O2ride |
Dann, you're 'jumpered' sidestand safety switch sounds(possibly?) promising. Hopeful, anyway... this happens to me, as you said, 95% of the time when over 65 and this sounds like a cheap and quick test/fix. I'm assuming this is the switch that causes the bike to die if you attempt to take off with the kickstand down? Not sure where the switch is but I have a manual and could look it up. I gather you kluged something together then left said jumper in when you found that solved it? Thanks for the suggestion! o2ride | ||
| Joey |
Got up one morning after not riding for a while (was out of town), put the Blast! in gear, eased up the clutch, and the engine tried to die. I tried giving it some throttle, eased up the clutch, happened again. Couldn't get it to go to save my life! It was then that I decided to get off, and discovered my kick stand was still down. Doh! Speaking of backfire, sometimes when I start my Blast! on a warm day shortly after shutting it off, it doesn't start well. (PuttPutt Putt ... Putt ... ... Blah!) Recently, I popped the throttle open to get it going, and blew the carburetor off! Fortunately, I still have a stock setup, so it didn't go far. 1/2 an inch was about it. edited by joey on October 22, 2003 | ||
| Shotgun |
First photo shows two long screen doop springs securing the Pro Series intake in place. (Ok that photo also has the stock-size filter on the Pro series elbow, which was not only overkill but tended to interfere with right leg and no rain protection)  ] Using one 6 inch spring attached to the Pro Series carb mount screw on right side zip-tied on other end and one 18 inch doors spring zip-tied to the intake puke inlet on the left side.   Final product is less obtrusive than the wrap around door springs but still supplies good upward support of the carb and easy to remove by snipping the zip-ties.  Project time, 20 minutes. Parts needed, 3 zip ties, 1 18" spring door screen, 1 8" spring. Cost $3.00. Knowing that your carb won't tear at the boot and fall off (it happened to me)...........priceless. edited by ezblast on March 26, 2004 | ||
| Halfaharley |
My Pro-Series filter and cover fell off today. I apparently didn't tighten the hose clamp down tightly enough. Does anyone know of a filter that will clamp on for a temporary? --Nik By the way, I got some new bolts and fixed my front mount. Everything looks ok. There doesn't seem to be anything more damaged from the violent, unbridled incident. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Shotgun-I notice you have pushrod tubes. Are they a Nallin item? or ? | ||
| Sarodude |
Half- Same thing happened to our filter & cover. I walked about 1/2 mile down the freeway shoulder looking for our stuff. It was undamaged - save for a light dent in the filter element. I don't think tightening the thing down harder will necessarily solve anything. There's an optimum tightness - and it assumes that the filter is properly positioned on the intake. I assume that in both our incidents we had at least one of those things not right. -Saro | ||
| Shotgun |
Gearhead, motor by Aaron Wilson of Nallin Bros. Adjustable pushrods. | ||
| Joey |
Ever have a backfire pop the carburetor completely out of the boot? | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - Yuppers - it happens - not a common occurence but it does happen and that is why I have springs holding my pro intake and stack - that way the carb won't go totally south while I'm going north - lol Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Halfaharley |
It happened to me when I had my stock airbox still on. I think it was backfiring because my jetting was too lean. --Nik | ||
| Joey |
Occasionally, when I warm start, RPMs don't get high enough, and I get a few putts before it dies. One day, I popped the throttle open when it was acting like it would do it again, and the backfire was louder than the exhaust. I couldn't stop laughing! | ||
| Carlost |
So let's say that I picked up a CV40 from a Sporty and wanted to repalce the stck Blast piece. What function does the TPS serve? Does it affect timing? | ||
| Ezblast |
As it affects the carb - it is for the auto enrichner - without it you will have to install a choke - in warmer climates - if you kept it reved just a bit more than your regular idle for around ten min.s you should be ok. - you could adapt a choke from a sportster or pick up an aftermarket piece/assembly. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Carlost |
So if the TPS affects the enrichener only, it's no big deal. I was concerned that is took the place of te VOES. | ||
| Tim |
Carlost said. "So if the TPS affects the enricher only, it's no big deal. I was concerned that it took the place of the VOES." The TPS on the Blast serves as the VOES found on other carb'd Buells. The auto enricher is a totally separate component. TPS sends input to the ignition module. The ignition module controls the auto enricher. If you have the service manual there is a very good writeup on Page 4-26 explaining how the auto enricher works. On page 7-4 there is a breakdown on the operation of the TPS, auto enricher, and the rotor and cam position sensor. | ||
| Halfaharley |
Carlost - Why do you want to use the sportster carb? If you just want to have the accelerator pump, you can just use the bottom end off of the sportster cv and drill the top end of your stock one to accept the accelerator pump jet. This way, you can still use the stock autoenrichener and TPS. I have done this, however I haven't been able to make it work smoothly since I haven't been able to find a smaller jet for the accelerator pump, and it just floods out (I'm not saying that it cannot be done, by any means. My carb was off a 1340, so a sporty's may be smaller). If you want to have the carb because of it's manual choke, you have got a lot more work to do, since you would have to rig up a voes (I'm not sure if this would even work) to give your ignition control module a throttle position indication so you have the right spark advance (the stock TPS cannot be retrofitted onto a sportster carb). If you live in an area where it is always warm, this may not be an issue. For best performance without any TPS, you can place a resistor (to give you the right amount of voltage drop) in place of the TPS to make the ICM think that you are always wide open, and this may be ok since a more retarded spark (which is what you get at WOT) will still enable you to start it without much trouble in the warm. Good luck! --Nik | ||
| Sandblast |
Hey everyone! I got a 45 pilot jet and I'm going in to change it tonight. All I have to do is take off my (stock) airbox and remove the bottom cover from the carb right? Can someone tell me exactly where the slow jet is going to be please... it might be self explanatory when I get in there but I would like to be confident before I start. Thanks. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Slow jet is in the middle of the carb, in the recessed hole(after you remove bottom cover).Flashlight & mirror might be handy but not neccessary.Use a good screwdriver,they can be tough to get out,so you dont want to strip it.Be careful not to disturb the float(ask EZ). | ||
| Sandblast |
Thanks. I did it- mirror and flashlight were needed...lol. Bike seems to be crisper from the bottom(wishfull thinking?) and my popping on decel seems to be gone! WOOOOHOOO I think I am jetted right! Thanks again. | ||
| St0rmbringer |
Ez and others, I just want to confirm prior to my parts arrival. I've got a 2002 model with (I assume) 42/170 jetting. I am going to be adding the Pro-series Exhaust & Air-cleaner. The only jet I need to change is the pilot to 45, correct?? Also, Is there any risk of not changing the jet at the same time I install the rest? Granted, with the AC already off, it only makes sense to change it then. I just don't know if I will have the part in hand. The exhaust and AC are coming via UPS, I'm going to have to rely on the local dealer to have the jet. Is it a fairly commonly stocked part? Thanks Dan | ||
| Ezblast |
Correct! 45 for the Primary is totally correct and a stock jet for other HD's - so at least one should be on hand - if not I have a carb link in the TKV - links to stuff you can't find there section (over a 100 working links to stuff!) for parts and jets for the CV 40. I like the updated pic in your profiles the Laverda's look great - looks like you have them adjusted almost as low as regular clipons but at a comfier angle - very nice! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  edited by ezblast on December 09, 2003 | ||
| St0rmbringer |
Thanks! I'm in the Memphis, TN area. I probably don't get much over 500 ft, much less 3500. I really like the Laverda's. Very comfortable and I really like the look much better. Looks like I need to stop by the dealer on the way home from work this week. | ||
| Sandblast |
Stormbringer- When you go to install the 45 jet just make sure you have a thin standard screwdriver handy, not so long that it cant get vertical under the carb and still clear the engine. I had a tool search panic when I did mine lol. I ran my pipe with no other mods for a week or so, if you have to... Your going to love the change in your bike. | ||
| St0rmbringer |
Ok, I've been reading the carb archives, and I just want some clarification. I have gathered that I do not have to remove the carburetor to re-jet. Is there anyone that's written up the steps to change the jet in this manner? Do I have to remove the float bowl? What else? Thanks again. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes you have to remove the float bowl - be real carefull, drop it straight down (you can tweek the float) - the tube sticking down holds the recessed primary jet - you'll need a small flathead to get at it, don't forget to carefully drill out the plug to the air mixture screw and gently bottom out and then 2 1/2 turns out and your set. The air mixture screw can be gotten to without removing the float bowl. Good luck - should be easy enough to do , I tweeked my float twice though in the history of doing this due to not being carefull of the lowering and raising back into place of the float bowl. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the DArk side! EZ | ||
| Shotgun |
Stormy, the Thumper KV probably has what you want. And yes, you can just remove the floatbowl to get at the jets. Be careful not to bend the float. Personally, I prefer to remove the carb and turn in upside down so I can see what I'm doing, clean it if needed, etc. | ||
| Stoker |
Any hints for a tight #42 jet? I'm trying to put in a #45 but the current occupant is VERY tight and I'm a fearful of stripping it | ||
| Halfaharley |
Use some penetrating oil, carb cleaner, or WD-40 to try to soften up any crap that might be binding it. I would suggest removing the carb from the bike if you haven't done that already, (so it's more accessable) and just make sure you can keep more force pointing into the jet than twisting force, and using the widest possible screwdriver, you should be fine. --Nik | ||
| Rcontroler |
My '02 Blast needs an intake boot. Does anyone know the part number of one from Harley Davidson? Buell dealer is 2 hrs. ride and Harley dealer is 15 minutes. |
