| Author | Message | ||
     Swampy |
Buellboy492, that coffe look is from getting moisture into the primary. Probably from washing a little too vigorisly under the seat area, that is where the primary vent tube is located and it is just an open tube so any water introduced in that area can go right in. | ||
| Reuel |
I did the gear oil for a couple years. I'm at 35K+, and still moving. I do Mobil 1 now. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Dummkauf |
I'm in the process of replacing my belt and both sprockets on my 02' Blast. I'm getting ready to pull the front sprocket off the transmission as soon as I find a 2" sockets to get that nut off. However my service manual says to use the special Buell sprocket holder to install the new sprocket. Do I actually need this tool? Based on the pics I'm not seeing what then need for it would even be? Also, I pulled the rear wheel and was pulling off the right side foot peg bracket and accidentally pushed brake pedal, which activated the brake. My service manual says I need to disassemble to whole caliper to push the piston back in, however couldn't I just use a C clamp to squeeze the piston back into the caliper? or would I break something else doing this? | ||
| Ezblast |
C clamp should work - or flat piece of metal and hand strength. As for the sprocket - I've read its been done without the tool, however, I forget what was used - a search may pull it up - they fixed that puppy, or someone else can speak up. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
I can't remember reading anything in my manual that said I should replace the front sprocket. Am I missing something? Heck, I wouldn't have replaced the rear sprocket if it hadn't gotten all messed up. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - nothing in the manual about replacing both sprockets - just the rear. Some never do. EZ | ||
| Dummkauf |
No the manual doesn't say to replace the front sprocket. I am replacing both since the last belt broke about 10,000 miles before it was supposed to. My sprockets aren't completely worn out, and I could probably get away with not replacing either, but I'm operating on the better safe than sorry theory here. | ||
| Reuel |
Too much maintenance is always better than not enough! | ||
| Deflaytedwayz2 |
I have a trans problem. Only does it in first gear. When turning right if feels like the trans goes into nutural then goes back into gear. I thought the clutch cable was binding. checked but everything is free. After screwing around with it driving in right hand circles trying to diag the problem. i decided to turn off the bike and leave it in first and rock the bike back and forth. Well when doing so the bike makes a popping sound and the bikes rear wheel will roll but the engine is not turing over. this only does it when the bike is leaning to the right or standing straight up. if you lean the bike to the left it does not pop or move and i can make the engine turn over. I try'd every other gear and everything seems okay. Im thinking i have an issue with something in the first gear. i just did a primary fluid change and had the cover off. (this issue was here before servicing the primary.) there was no abnormal amount of metal on the drain plug. I also adjusted the primary per service manual. everything shifts great. but it comes out of gear and goes back in while rideing in right hand circles. what should i check before i split my cases to inspect the gears? Is there anything in the primary side that could cause this? seems like there is too much clearance somewhere like the gears are slideing away when leaning to the right and slideing back when the bike is leaned to the left Any help would be great Thanks (Message edited by deflaytedwayz2 on May 19, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
Fluke or flounder - got me?! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Inside your primary case is the shift drum retaining bolt, I would check that first. I would also run the engine in neutral, and tip the bike left and right and see if the neutral light flickers. If it flickers it is a good indication that the retaining bolt has loosened up. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thank you Swampy - that sounds about right. EZ | ||
| Deflaytedwayz2 |
okay, thanks. ill do both of those sugestions. ill try to look into it tomorrow night though. i got the g/f here tonight and she wants to watch the last american idol. lol you know how that is.... | ||
| Ezblast |
If you think you have to go there - let us know - there are other things you can do as well to ensure smooth shifting and make for a more reliable bike. Since you would be there anyway type of thing. EZ | ||
| Deflaytedwayz2 |
well i was able to snick into the garage for a while. got the primary cover off and took a look at the shifter. seems to be working right. i did not have time to remover the primary chain and gears. but i was able to see the part of the drum as it rotates when the shifter is pushed up and down. with a long screwdriver i was able to rotate the drum into first and second gear. i thought that it may not be going into first fully. but it seems to be all the way in. With the primary cover off and the bike in 1st gear. i rocked the bike forward and back. the engine wanted to rotate. but if i leaned the bike to the right and continued to rock the bike front to back. after a few rocks the bike would roll forward and backward popping threw the gear. you could see the clutch side of the primary gear jerk as it popped threw the gear. then if you held the bike straight if would do the same thing. but if you lean the bike to the left and continued to rock the bike the gears would go back into place after about 3-4 times and would stay in place intill you leaned the bike back to the right. Im now thinking that for sure something is going on internaly in the trans. I guess ill be studying my service manual and start looking into a big bore kit since i have to split the cases. | ||
| Ezblast |
Don't split the case just yet - take off the roter/chain/clutch hub off as a unit per manual - replace detent clip and detent plate - check that drum pins are the same length, place a drop of red locktite at long pins base before gently tapping in to propper length as rest of the pins on drum, make sure drum bolt is torqued to spec, then do shift pawl adjustment, while in there also chamfer the edges of the stator wire protection plate to insure protection - lol Done - wrap up and ride! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on May 20, 2009) | ||
| Deflaytedwayz2 |
Ez, Thanks ill look into that. I dont know much about how a motorcycle trans works since ive never taken one apart. though i am a mechanic by trade and shade tree mechanic/fabricator bu night. ill get it once i dig into it. Just a few questions before i take it apart. why would i replace the dentent clip and plate? what do they do? and do they just fail? What do the drum pins do? i know they turn then the shift pawl moves them. but do they have any other jobs? like does the depth of the drum pin help hold the gears at a certain depth? oh and just an fyi the bike as been down on the left side prior to me picking up the bike and the shifter was replaced with a sporty one. does anyone think being down may have anything to do with the first gear problem? Thanks | ||
| Swampy |
The shift drum pins fit loosely in the shift drum and that will cause less than precise shifting. The pins can be replaced with tighter pins by shopping around at a hardware store or tightened in the drum by gluing in with JB Weld. The detent plate clip needs to be replaced as its sort of like reusing wrist pin clips, cheap to replace, expensive to reuse. There are some good detent plates to be had that are better for shifting. Also look for a loose shift drum retaining bolt, it is located just inside the diameter of the clutch hub ring gear. You can see it but not remove it with the clutch hub inplace. If the shift drum is loose you would be able to slide it left and right in the case. | ||
| Deflaytedwayz2 |
Swampy, this is what i saw before you posted. Removed primary chain and both front and rear hubs. detent plate seemed tight with detend clip. shifted into first and rocked the bike slighty to fully enguage the gear. the spring loaded roller that holds the detent in the right gear was in the center of the 1st gear detent. I then removed the detent clip and detent to inspect the 4 drum pins. all the pins were the same height ( i did not try to tap them in at this time) I then put the detent back on and reused the detent clip since i have not bought any parts yet. then i only put on the clutch hub and rocked the trans back and forth by hand with the bike on the side stand. 1st gear stayed in and did not pop past the gear. Then i stood the bike up straight. pulled off the clutch hub to see if anything moved around the drum or detent. all was still in the spot i left it. put the clutch hub back on. and rocked the trans back and forth by hand again. everything seemed fine. Then i layed the bike to the right. rocked the clutch hub by hand again. with in 3-5 hard rocks i was able to pop the clutch hub threw the gear pop-pop-pop forward and pop-pop-pop backwards. stood up bike on the side stand and removed the clutch hub and everything was still in the same place. ill try to see if the bolt is loose. but i still think i have an internal problem... Btw thanks for everyones input. | ||
| Deflaytedwayz2 |
http://mcmod.com/cycloneknock_files/ShiftDrum.jpg this pic is from a cyclone but very similar to our bikes. this is what i see. the shift drum retaining bolt holds the sheetmetal clip that kinda folds behind the case to hold the shif drum right? if thats it it was tight. i also checked the play in the shift drum and it only has like 1/16 of movement. not a whole lot. After looking in to the repair manual more there is a picture of the trans gears. there is a balance shaft that has a slide that runs first and second gear. there are coggs on both sides to either make first or second move. im thinking that they may have been rounded off both on the first gear cogg and the slider cogg on the first gear side. I only think that because of how the gears mesh they are direct gears and if i had bad teeth they would all be ground up and i would not be able to move at all in first. They pop about the amount of times there are castle teeth on these gears. Here is a perfect example. this if from gixxer.com fourm about second popping. similar to my 1st see the wear on the castle part? http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa59/88gixxer/100_4554.jpg (Message edited by deflaytedwayz2 on May 21, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
did you make sure the pins where the same lengthy - if you notice those pins where not and probably cause of grief latter down the road. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
So far you have no need to split the case. You do have manual right? EZ | ||
| Krjoseph |
EZ, how far should those pins stick out? | ||
| Deflaytedwayz2 |
i do have the manual. and as far as i can tell the pins are then same lenght. if the pins were to be reomoved. how long would they be? all they do is just hold the detent plate right? or do they go threw the whole shift drum? why i ask is when the detent plate is off i cant turn the shift drum any further in first gear. witch tells me that first is all the way in. I dont think that im having any problems with the pins. EZ i dont think you read both my posts. (Message edited by deflaytedwayz2 on May 21, 2009) | ||
| Ezblast |
Actually I did - measure the pins all should be the same length - the drum pin length - 0.335" - leach red locktite and gently tap back in to proper length, and use the right size drill bit for the Shift pawl adj - they go through the drum - this and the shift pawl adjustment will probably fix your problem, since I had simular and it did fix it. EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Was the bolt that held the detent roller arm tight? If everything was tight and shifting into first solidly and then you tip the bike and it pops out of gear you probably have a bent shift fork or worn shift dog ears or the clearance between the shift fork and shift dog is too much. If everything is tight you are going to have to split the case and replace some first gear parts like the slider and gear and possibly the shift fork. | ||
| Deflaytedwayz2 |
swampy, I did check the detent roller arm bolt, and it was tight. I suspect that all you listed that one or more of those parts may need replaceing. due to the holiday weekend i dont know if ill have time to tear the bike down. but ill deff get to it next weekend. Im going to try to remember to take pictures of the parts that have failed or have been possible damaged. then post them up for all to see. for those who may be curious on my outcome. Ez and Swampy you both have been a great help walking me threw the diagnosis. its nice being able to console with some one with knowledge so i dont second guess myself. since i have never had to dig this far into a bike before. Thank you both! | ||
| Ezblast |
If you split the cases there is so much you could do as well - lol - wispers the Dark side... EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Ooh! Ooh! Baker six speed! |
