| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
BC Rider has an excellent instructions with pictures for what you need to do with those hoses - http://bcrider.com/blast.html Any for a 4 cyl car should work for the in line gas have the dealer order the jet - at most 8.00 dollars and if your even mildly mechanically inclined BCRider will help you there also, however you can get great picture - diagrams at Nightrider showing exactly where everything is at different angles - etc http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm The Breather filter you can find at most auto stores also Can't want to see the end result - post some pics when your done please and good luck! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Gpuckhead |
I put the new Pro Series airbox (I am working on the brace now) on and rejetted yesterday. The bike is getting better everyday! Now, it is a real BLAST to ride! I used the Dynojet kit which replaces the needle, the main tube and the main jet so now I am at a 42/155. It is running good, but after we get a dyno we will see what needs to change next..... | ||
| Sarodude |
Loli is out of town for a couple of days - so I'm trying to make the best of it by enjoying the Blast. Everything's been GREAT - until the ride home today. Carb boot is SHOT. It would seem that my silly little brace above isn't cutting the mustard - and this after only 500 or so miles. I'm gonna try what I originally wanted to do for a brace. Maybe I'll get it done tonight. -Saro | ||
| Halfaharley |
Try bracing it my way, but leaving out all but the left-hand brace to the frame. That's what I have done, and approaching 900 miles, no cracks in the manifold coupler (or "rubber intake boot)" whatsoever. When I had the two braces to the frame installed together, one of the braces cracked after only 20 miles, so I just put the left one back on and left it that way. It looks better with practically no visible bracing and how can you argue with that if it works? I'll post a picture of what it looks like now later this evening if I can. --Nik edited by halfaharley on August 25, 2003 | ||
| Sandblast |
I have a simple question ( I just read the entire carb archive but don't know much or anything about jetting). I went and ordered a V&H pipe, K&N filter, and dyno jet kit for my 2002 Blast. I figure I should put everything on at once, and want to be sure about the carb stuff. I may even take it to somebody because I really can't afford to mess it up... I am sure there are lots of you that run this same set-up, so what are the right jets... etc. I read 170 main, 45 slow, needle shimed to 0.001??? I live in Inland Southern California. Thanks in advance for clear help for a guy new to this.. | ||
| Ezblast |
The Dyno Jet kits jets are numbered differently from the stock jet numbers you are quoting which are Kehin stock numbers - if you notice your stock main is already 170 so leave that alone go with a 45 primary and the shim and sell back the Kit and save eighty dollars or around that - spend a total of nine for parts and if you don't feel qualified - an hour for labor at your local shop - don't forget the air mixture screw at 2 1/2 out from soft bottom after carefully removing the plug. Air box mod is optional. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Halfaharley |
I wasn't sure where to post this question, but this was the only subtopic that said "engine." What is everyone's theory for a timing plug hole breather on the blast? Has anyone experimented with any luck? I read a post involving dyno testing an M2 with such a breather, and there seemed to be no apparent benefit, but variation could be the reason for that. Just trying to think of another way to screw up my bike! --Nik | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - know what you mean - I've experimented alot also - the racers are doing it but I've seen no one on the street bother for the reasons you mentioned, however, there must be some benifit/preventional issue or the racers wouldn't bother - got me what it could be though. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Mikej |
Timing plug breathers were discussed on the site here a year or two ago. I don't recall the net result of the discussions. | ||
| Sandblast |
Thanks EZblast, I appreciate it. I'm still debating on whether to try it myself- I have a couple weeks till my parts come in to decide... I have worked on a lot of old chevys and do the maintenance on my equipment at work, but this is different. Anyway thanks again... | ||
| Ezblast |
Its all pretty simple, if you've a steady hand and are quick about it - you should have no problems. At least do the primary to 45 and the air mixture screw - you may or may not feel a slight lag at around 2000 rpm - if you do - shim the needle up 0.01". That should set you up nicely for the V&H. The reason I say quick is that most people do this with the carb on the bike and when the float bowl is removed the float has no suport and if left hanging too long, or bumped has a tendency to deform - has been the experience of a few folks (myself included twice - lol) but I've been in the carb so many times its just the odds catching up with me - lol - Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Gpuckhead |
Sandblast, I put the dynojet kit in my wife's Blast last weekend. You end up drilling the vent hole next to the needle, replacing the needle, shimming the new needle and replacing main jet (to 155). She now has the Buell Pro Series exhaust, Buell Pro Series air box and the jetting. The bike is noticeably quicker (she is hitting the rev limiter more) and has more power, we will get it on the dyno in a couple of weeks and I will let everybody know where we are at then, I suspect we will be replacing the primary at that point. All of this is really easy to do. | ||
| Sandblast |
Thanks for the help guys- turns out my pipe is in, but my jet kit, rear tire, and k&n are not  . I think I am going to go today and grab the pipe and the superbike bars (in stock) that EZ told me about. I am on vacation and probably wont be when the rest of the stuff comes in. Say, is it dangerous to the bike to just run the pipe with no other mods, just for a little while???? I'm anxious to hear and feel a little difference! Ha ha- if I install the pipe before my other stuff comes in- can I at least test ride the new bars??? Let me know Im on my way to get the stuff! thanks again! | ||
| Blastoholic |
It's not really dangerous, but you may blue the pipe a darker blue by running lean. And be aware that the V&H is a Nickel plated pipe, so use caution with cleaners that claim to remove bluing. But lots of dealers just throw on the pipe without rejetting, it just leans it up a bit. And you'll notice the V&H pipe is very loud and you'll either love that or hate it. And with the jets, the bike will really start to breath and feel more power. | ||
| Sandblast |
Cool- I'll probably install the pipe and bars today, go for a short ride, then park it and take off the back wheel I need to change anyway to stop myself from riding it until I get it done. I am being immature and impatient but I cant stop... thanks. | ||
| Gpuckhead |
Put the wife's Blast on the Dyno yesterday. We ended up with a 45/175 combo and it is still a little lean, so we are going to get a 180 and 185 to see if it will richen it up. The bad part was the guy running the dyno didn't tighten up the Pro Series airbox good so on the way home it all fell off. Now we are being told that you can't just order the element(which was run over a few times), but you have to buy the entire assembly ($90). Do any of you have any ideas? Oh, the results of the dyno are HP=28.81 Torque=28.43 which is a big difference from where we started. Another question I have is, are you guys experiencing the same kind of service from your local HD dealers? Meaning that they either don't know a lot about the Blast or they do not take the time to go over everything. We have had a lot of problems with this dealer...... Thanks, | ||
| Shotgun |
When you say "it all fell off" it makes me think that it may have been your "lean problem". Very few Blasts running 180 mains without being radically modified. I have the 515 kit, pro series intake, White Bros, E series exhaust, ported heads, bigger valves, etc etc and a 180 main is downright boggy. I think you ought to ask for a freebee re-dyno after explaining what happened on your way home. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur - no bracing? - your lucky the carb didn't go with it! W/ a V&H and air kit 45/170 should be all you need in jetting - should put you between 12 & 14 in your AF accross the board - shimming the needle helps that slight lag at a little over 2500 then again if you don't feel it don't bother - Yea - sounds to me like you had an intake leak from the very beginning - do the WD40 trick around the intake boot to check for crack/leak and check for clamp tightness as well. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sandblast |
Hey guys- I went ahead and installed the Dyno Jet kit- and I put in a K&N filter (dropped into the stock airbox). The Dyno Jet kit has different directions for different levels- the more airflow the leaner they want it??? Why is that, it scares me a little. I went ahead and put in the 165 jet, thats what they say to use with an aftermarket exhaust (mine is V&H). I ignored the fact that I had the K&N. It runs great, sounds great, everything. My question is how (without a dyno) do I know I am not running lean- i just would feel alot better riding my bike if I knew for sure I was not going to burn her up. I cant afford that. I plan on going to a dyno and will post the results but it could be a while and Im going to Oktoberfast hopefully... thanks... | ||
| Sandblast |
Oh yeah should I still go buy a 45 slow jet and if yes where is it? (in the carb). | ||
| Jprovo |
The easiest way is to do a plug reading, on a clean plug. Very simply put, white powdery deposits are lean, cinammon brown is perfect, sooty brown/black is rich. There is a section in your manual for plug inspection, and I'll look for some websites with color pics. Dynojet tends to be pretty spot-on with their jet kits, so I wouldn't worry if you're followed their instructions. Personally, I'd try the 45 pilot jet. The stock 42 pilot tends to be a little lean for our area with a pipe and intake mods. It's located righ next to the main, deep into the carb. James BTW, golden State Brag next sunday 9/28 see the SoCal Storm front Section for details | ||
| O2ride |
When Buell is stumped, then what? This also leaves me guessing where the proper place to post within Badweb would be, I'll chance the Carb topic arena. Seems most of you guys here really know your stuff, maybe someone has been thru this and found a fix? My '01 Blast has been thru all the famed, familiar blast ailments, but my local service dept. informs me this current one even has Buell Technical stumped. Around 8,000 miles my bike started missing once in a while followed by a backfire(s) but usually not. It never dies or gives me the feeling it will leave me stranded, it's just an occasional miss or hesitation which varies in intensity at different times. I am currently at 11,300 miles and the problem appears neither worse nor better. A rough estimate is that it happens every 20 to 30 miles, at all speeds, all gears, all temps or times of day, warmed up or cold. The only constant seems it happens while cruising. Service history, ie; 4 separate trips to Harley Service Dept. with certified Buell Tech: 1. Cleaned fuse box connector and ignition fuse 2. Adjusted air screw 3. Replaced manifold coupler, intake seals and carb seals (now we're getting expensive) 4. Replaced throttle position sensor, auto-choke, installed shim under needle and adjusted air screw (fortunately Buell picked up this tab) Problem still alive and well. Has anybody else experienced this? On this last visit, an 11-day duration, the service manager was honest enough to tell me they were running out of ideas and simply did not know what was causing the problem. The Buell tech who worked on my bike contacted Buell and said they were unable to help on this one. I really love this bike but can't help entertaining thoughts of trading it in for a Japanese model which, in my past experience seem to run forever fairly problem free, however, I have also entertained thoughts of trading the '01 in on an '04 or '05 to solve the problem. As I say, I really do love this bike! My two questions are this: 1. What does one do at this point? Take it to another shop and start over? (with copy of history paperwork, of course…) 2. What is the consensus of the newer Blasts? Have they got all the bugs worked out? Has it become a reliable machine worth going for a second time? I feel like those of us who bought the '00 and '01's helped to finance the Blast R&D phase before it was ready for the show room floor (oops, did I say that) ;->. Thanks for any suggestions. I also want to thank you guys for previous threads on tires. I now have a set of Pirelli's and am amazed at the difference from the Dunlops! o2Ride | ||
| Shotgun |
OS2RIDE, notice in your profile that you have had problems with the speedo reading 2/3 of actual. Is that still the case? | ||
| Joeb1 |
O2ride, Tuesday call Modesto Buell in California they will help.....209-567-1330 | ||
| O2ride |
Amazingly that problem seemed to all but disappear. Only had that happen once this year and I virtually ride every day (except winters). | ||
| Ezblast |
Did they do a plug check - also for cracks, check the plug wire - also for breaks/cracks, the coil, the wiring to the coil all the way back to battery - check for crack/breaks, also - battery itself - are the connections tight? - because of the inconsistancy - I'd say that it is an electrical problem. Its hard to check - you have to use a resistance meter. I could be wrong but it is the culprit I would be chaising after all the other things you have already done. I was thinking - you know if that vacuume line link plug - a rubber boot that goes over the beginning steel line from the carb - atatched to the evap. system in California models - if from age and heat that little rubber boot where to develop a real slight leak - you would also experience such simptoms. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Hans |
After checking the electrical things, as in Ezblast's message: Time to throw in parts, starting with the cheapest things: Plug, plug wire with plugcap, coil (!!). Hans | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sounds like a bad ignition module.They can do crazy things.Definitly sounds electrical though.The last time I had an ignition module go('84 Sporty)& the symptoms never really got worse:The occasional miss w/ or w/o backfire,and sometimes would not start, but turn on the key and wait for the backfire then it was ready to start and ran fine! The 'just replace parts till its fixed' can be expensive and I would be hesitant to pay a dealer for parts that didn't fix the problem! | ||
| Jprovo |
O2Ride, It's going to be as hard for us to diagnose as the Buell peeps, but here's my guess. I'd flip the lever of the gas cap open to let air into the gas tank the next time you have the problem. If that solves you problem, you have a tank breathing problem. I'd check for moisture trapped in your fuel overfill line. If you even slightly overfill the tank, fuel gets into this line. On the Blast that line is really long, and has dips in it that could act like a gas trap sort of like the "water trap" on your sink. James | ||
| O2ride |
Many Thanks! Printed everything out. Your suggestions provide much to look into here and plan to do what I can. If nothing pans out, guess I'll be thumpin' around town someday soon, well next year (year after mebbe?) on a later model to break in. Reeeaalllly wish they'd come out with one in that amazon green they used back in '98. Awesome color! How are the newer Blasts? Have they cleaned up the notorious bugs we earlier blast purchasers suffered thru? That sales guy I spoke with is the last person whose word I'm going to believe. o2ride |
