| Author | Message | ||
     Sarodude |
I couldn't tell if GPuck did or not. The point I was trying to make was this: I had my boot last quite some time without a failure - and that was with me messing with that stinkin' carb more times than I care to think about. I guess what's really bothering me is the uneasy feelings being spread about that boot being a bad part. It's not a bad part. It's just not intended to support the weight of the carb. Analogy? Imagine you have a drink bottle with a straw. Generally you hold the bottle with one hand and drink through the straw. Now try to support the bottle with JUST THE STRAW - as in "Look ma! No hands!" How many people with STOCK airboxes or slightly modded airboxes have this problem? For everyone with a modded intake with this problem, FIX YER INTAKE! Stop raggin' on the factory boot for not doing something it SHOUDLN'T be expected to do. -Saro | ||
| Jprovo |
Amen Saro, Still have the original boot and intake 13,000 miles later. I suspect most of the intake boot problems come from modded intakes or rough handling during carb modification. James | ||
| Ezblast |
My bike's intake system was stock style when it cracked holing a piston, others have had this happen also, I disagree - if anything is the weak link to this bike it is the intake boot, and when the factory comes out with that Pro intake and no upgrade to the boot just shows a bit of irresponsebility to me. Good for you guys! There are enough people who say otherwise with stock airboxes that you opinion is just that. Please read about others experiences thru this board alone and you will see that modified or not the boot still has been the cause of a lot of unnescessary grief that could have been easily fixed by just using a stronger material/substance in the casting. This has always been my proof about the stepchild syndrome that Blasters put up with from Buell. I've made due by changing it out with the oil and carrying an extra, however, I had high hopes for Buell when they released their Pro intake for the Blast that they would offer an upgraded intake boot as well - hell - i'd have bought the whole intake system just for the upgraded boot - if it had been offered. Sigh - really guys - I love Buell and the Blast in particular, however nothing or no one is perfect and this little flaw points that out. I've never had a speedo problem but that doesn't mean that I'm not aware that there has been problems there - its just a minority problem, as the boot is in this case - still that boot going south can cause a lot more problems than a speedo not working - except for those pesky tickets - lol - Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  edited by ezblast on August 04, 2003 | ||
| Sarodude |
To anyone with a stock airbox & intake boot problems: When installing your carb and / or intake - at what point in the process do you tighten the hose clamps on the intake boot? See this post and see what you think. It got no response when I posted it but I really think it might be something to look at. -Saro (lol - remember it well and followed its advice - but do dealers? - Moderator) edited by ezblast on August 04, 2003 | ||
| Jprovo |
EZ, Go back and read the archives, other than some loose carb boot clamps, the majority of the posts with regards to the intake boot are from YOU. I think Ray broke 2, the first because he didn't have a carb brace. I think Tony had one crack with his custom intake. I remember a few loose clamps, and one or two people having a backfire split the carb boot (improper timing/jetting?). The only bike I remember having a total meltdown because of an intake leak is yours. Weren't you running the wrong plug? I think that replacing the rubber boot at every oil chainge is total overkill, but if it makes you happy... James | ||
| Gpuckhead |
The bike is all stock. Is there a carb bracket or something that would help support this? Do any of you think that going with the Pro series intake would help this problem, I mean the stock airbox could double for storage-hehehe. My wife really likes the bike so I need to figure something out... | ||
| Ezblast |
James I have reviewed the archives several times - lol - I was running a hot plug which made the damage worse - lol - there have been others also - Tony had one on his stock set up before the custom, and others also - but its not just this Board that I read this - SACBORG, DCBrag, and others have posted this, recently again at SACBorg - I'm sure I mentioned this to be a minority issue, but still it is an issue, and it is being delt with in the same way the speedo issue is being delt with -in other words it is being politely ignored. Sure - I pipe up loud about it, but thats because I get tired of being told - oh its ok - it must be you type of thing when I keep reading from the different boards that it isn't just me. I could make a list of names but that isn't the issue, the issue is that a simple rubber part could do with some simple upgrades to better serve its function but since there is no majority saying anything, nothing gets done! So as a minority member who knows he's not alone it behoves me to speak a little louder on the topic - lol - got thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Jprovo |
GPuck, what's wrong with the bike? James | ||
| Gpuckhead |
Backfiring, won't idle, hard to start. It has 4200 miles on it and I replaced the spark plug around 3500 with the factory spec plug because it was doing this and it didn't help. The dealer has it now so we will see what they say. The last time it did this (June 2003)it was the boot, so as of now I am figuring it is the same problem. | ||
| Jprovo |
Has the timing eve been adjusted? It if backfires a lot, it can screw up the boot, which makes it look like the cause, when it is really a symptom. James | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
My 2 cents.Used to have to change the intake 'rubber bands about every 5000 miles on my twin Harleys. Tried every style clamp on the market,finally went back to stock, got the 'sequence' right,used the 'brown stuff' on the bands and rarely had a problem again.Yes, the carb has to be supported!Maybe since its a single, the carb takes the full force of the backfire, whereas a twin gives it someplace else to go.Maybe the intake leaks first and splits the boot second(as James said)? Don't know if any of this is relevant but ? | ||
| Ezblast |
James is correct - on 2002 and newer Blasts timing troubles are ziltch, however, there was a Dealer Bullitin about a few late 2000 thru early 2001 Blasts having timing problems and listing an adjustment http://www.sporttwin.com/documents.html You can find a link to that document here - hope this helps - Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Sarodude |
Another thing on boot failures: When ours began to leak my preferred dealer didn't have one in stock. I used a little RTV to seal it all up as a stopgap measure. Well, the RTV started to leak. That leak caused what was probably a leanness induced backfire (at startup) splitting an already unhappy boot. To the best of my knowledge, a properly running street Blast has no desire to backfire. If people are busting their boots on backfires, the boot was likely already on its way out. I don't think it's a case of a tight but brittle boot succumbing to a mysterious backfire from nowhere. Just some thoughts, anyway... -Saro | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Carb boots and timing, There is nothing wrong with the design of the carb boots sold by Buell. As stated above the only failures that I have had have been my creation. If you don't support the carb properly it WILL fail. Trust me. In stock trim the most frequent causes of failure are too aggressive knee pressure while cornering, over-tightening of the clamps or improper tuning. I chose to carry a spare with me all the time yet have had no additional failures since I braced the carb properly. James you are quite correct. In terms of timing, this is extremely easy on the Blast. If you have a manual use the instructions for static timing. If you don't here goes. Remove the timing plug found on the right side behind the pushrod tower, also remove the timing cover also found on the right side. Place bike in fifth gear and rotate engine until the timing mark is in the middle of the timing plug hole. Loosen the ignition module screws and turn on the ignition. Do not start the bike as it will puke large quantities of oil from the open timing hole. Slowly rotate the ignition module until the LED lights up I usually do this 2-3 times to make sure I don't over shoot the mark. Tighten and replace plugs screws etc. and go riding. Hope this helps some of you that may have been wondering. Ray | ||
| Ezblast |
Well said Ray! Also the advice was very insightful on the timing issue! I still disagree about the intake boot but the experience circle I share is very small, so do I see this as a growing negative trend - no - do I see it as a place where possible negatives can and do happen - yes. So I continue to pray to the factory for a simple material upgrade for said Intake Boot. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Jprovo |
Thanks Ray and EZ for the concurrence. Erik, The Ironhead rubber intake bands (manifold to head for all you non-ironhead initiated) are a total bear. You had to have had have both luck and patience to get those things to seal. What was your sequence? I always ran a roundslide Mikuni, and it took me awhile to get around to bracing it. I remember having a backfire shoot the carb off the bike while trying to kick start it. It's kind of embarassing to have to re-attach the carb to start the bike! James | ||
| Newt |
Re: Iron XL intake rubber bands/o-rings. I finally went to a two piece manifold to head clamp, aftermarket (they are made for both the o-ring type and rubber band type). They will hold any carb, other than one hung out on a 90 degree manifold, without bracing. I even ran an S.U. for awhile with no support brackets and I could darn near stand on the carb and it wouldn't budge. (*MMI, H-D Factory School)The real "trick" to superior intake seal any Iron Head XL is when you put the heads on. If you will align the intake manifold with heads before you torque the heads your problem is 99% solved. The biggest problem is when the heads are put on and not aligned, you end up with huge gaps at the manifold which are almost impossible to seal correctly. The two piece clamp is as good as you'll get in that case. Just my .02 cents worth....hope it helps. | ||
| Jprovo |
Newt, I'll have to keep that in mind while I'm helping my dad button up the top end of the '75. Thanks, James | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Actually I got so confidant sealing the (Sportster)rubber bands, I ditched the (problem ridden) o-rings on my shovelhead & used the bands instead (without changing head or manifold style)! The sequence is as described elsewhere here on badweb, snug down all the supports with the carb in the correct position before tightening down the band clamps.I used the stock H-D clamps (other style clamps tended to break prematurly).And I believe the #1 reason for the success was the brown 'formagasket' I used on the bands. Its not easily broken down by gasoline like the silicone sealers, & assures a good seal (even when re-using bands!).Anyway, James, you live close by so e-mail me if you want my # !!. Sorry moderator I know this is way off topic so feel free to delete after a few days!! Erik edited by gearheaderiko on August 07, 2003 | ||
| Gpuckhead |
We got my wife's blast back today. What a disappointment. We were told, "There was a clogged jet, the carb needed adjusting, the primary chain was loose, and the clutch needed adjustment". End result, now it over revs between gears and still backfires occasionally. So at least it starts and stays running just at a really high RPM. The mechanic (HD Certified) said it is normal for it to have a "Sportster Sneeze". Unfortunately, I have a '92 Sportster and it never sneezes. Hmmmmmmm, we are getting desparate....Any ideas? | ||
| Jprovo |
GPH, The high idle isn't hard to adjust. I'd make sure that they set it right, of I'd cruise in there with the bike nice and warm, and have them check it. Please describe the backfire, I'm assuming that the bike is not making a huge bang noise out of the exhaust, but something else. If the exhaust is popcorny under engine braking, that's relatively normal for a stock Blast. If the bike is popping through the carb, it's fairly normal with the stock idle screw setting and jetting. If it's making loud banging noisesout of the exhaust, then there is something seriously mistuned on the bike. If the dealer has not satisfied you, take it someplace else. Let us know where you're located so we can let you know who is Buell friendly. James | ||
| Ezblast |
Ah - I see James has already replyed - I concur - but I'll leave what I said - Neither of mine do that also, find another dealer would be my first thought - has anyone switched out the boot (I know - again - still if you know your starting fresh then you can go from there), have you looked at your plug? swaped out plug wires? You know that little side 'l' line coming out of the left side of the carb (facing the front of the bike) - is the cap solid - if there is a little split you could get symptoms like that - if your a cali bike that line (attatched to the 'l' line coming out of the carb mentioned earlier) could have a break/split, also if your a cali bike it could be a partially clogged vacuum tank line or smog canister. Also a thought (if not the carb?) - is your exhaust mounted correctly? Have you tried adusting the timing yourself as per Ray's instructions above? A half decent dealership would not hand you your bike back to you in that condition - this cannot be the only Blast they have ever heard running - they have no excuse for doing so! Clearly your options are to systematically try/check what I have sugested above or find another dealership/garage to service your bike. Service like that is unfathomable to me - and not forgivable. Any of our local experts have an idea?! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  edited by ezblast on August 07, 2003 edited by ezblast on August 08, 2003 | ||
| Gpuckhead |
We are in Houston, TX. I won't mention the dealer but they are at 290 and Crossroads...I think I am going to order the exhaust, jets and air box and just work on it myself, at least then I know it is right....Stay tuned, once I get the parts the fun will begin and I will probably be frequenting here more than I do now. Thanks, | ||
| Sarodude |
I picked up my Pro Series intake last night. Not sure what I think of it yet. I got to examine one before I bought mine. There were noticeable differences between the two. What I saw was highly varying machining / grinding / ?ing of the plastic to allow for a cleaner path into the carb. On the one I wound up with, only the little indentations near where the bolts run were ground. The demo unit was ground a significant percentage around the circumference. Don't know how to state that better. Also, the breather port for the float bowl LOOKS like it may suffer from the New Style Forcewinder malady. This thing is definitely a budget piece though the kit is fairly complete with new gaskets and new bolts. I have no idea how well it'll work but, after looking at it and noting my PERCEIVED negatives, I still bought it. As far as bracing the carb goes - I guess we'll just have to come up with a good solution. -Saro | ||
| Halfaharley |
Has anyone had to rejet after adding the Pro-Series intake? Before, I had the stock airbox with a K&N filter and V&H exhaust. (in low altitude) | ||
| Ezblast |
Whats your current jetting - 45/170 - needle shimmed 0.001? - should be where your at - and no you shouldn't need to rejet. - Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Tim |
pro series intake pics. with and without cover   | ||
| Ezblast |
Do you have any suports for it? - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Tim |
No, not yet. I have a spare boot on hand though, just in case. | ||
| Ezblast |
You could at least try the spring on each side - its what all the racers run and will help keep the carb from going south as you go north - GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
