| Author | Message | ||
     Tyronewildman |
New(to me) '03 w/2700 mi clutch engagement & shifting perfect w/no primary or engine noise. Pretty sure no maintenance ever done as the primary chain adjuster bolt spacer is still there. Ist owner(after being sold as new from dealership classes) only put 200 mi on it. When takeing off under load, after clutch completely engaged, in 1st gear only, it will jerk(more than once if under heavy load) & it feels like the gear dogs are rounded & it's trying to jump out of gear. If I let off slightly or run up thru the RPMs, with not much load, it's perfect. I'll try the primary adj (as suggested) (see below)and report back. Didn't find info on clutch adjustment (no manual yet) but if U guys say clutch adj could cause this I'll give it a try also. Should have copied the original title-does the 2 year warranty transfer to next owner? Here;s the primary adj I will try. Thanks, De  Can this be done without a torque wrench? To answer your question, Yes. From a cold start, let the bike get to a warmed up idle, then start tightening the primary chain. When you hear the idle start to drop, back off two flats. I've been doing it this way for the last few chain adjustments, and it is usually within a flat of adjusting it with a torque wrench. BTW, the reason for a cold start is to set the chain tension with a cold primary. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
My 2002 was doing the same thing, or similar things.. When I let out the clutch in 1st, it would start to move a bit then clunk, sometimes twice. One of the following cured this for me. Change the oil, (I used Amsoil 20w50) Adjust the clutch... do it right, follow the manual. Take off the inspection cover and adjust the screw inside. Just wrenching on the adjuster in the middle of the cable will not help you, that adjusts cable length, not clutch throw. Then Lube the cable. The clutch adjustment had immediate effect on the problem but it did not go away entirely. Eventually it did though, I would assume that the cable lube and new tranny oil took a while to work into things. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Tyrone My bike was a training bike too. Think about this.. You may only have 2700 miles but those bikes do a lot of 1st gear running (almost entirely), a lot of starts and stops and a lot of idling. Actual engine running time and tranny and break wear and tear may be closer to a bike with 8000 miles on it. Remember the first time you or a loved one rode a bike? The clutch popping or tons of clutch slippage, motor lugging and killing! That was life everyday for this bike every weekend of it's life before you. If it's spacer is still in there it probably didn't get much love from the dealership either. I jumped right ahead in my maintenance schedule and did the 10,000 and the 15000 mile tune up. (well... most of it anyway) | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Tyrone This might help.... I don't have my manual handy but this is how I remember doing it. Please confirm this before attempting to do this adjustment. The manual (with a couple exceptions)is good, the pictures and illustrations are priceless. Take off the footpeg mount and remove the clutch inspection cover. Loosen all the cable adjustments until its very slack, fully pull and release the clutch lever three times. Under the inspection cover there is a spring... Pull the spring and the hex bolt under it off. There is a flat sided screw there that the hex bolt slides over to keep it from turning. Using a flat-blade screw driver, turn the screw until it lightly bottoms, then back it off a quarter turn. Then reinstall the nut and spring, (you may have to back the screw out a little more to align with the nut. Reinstall the inspection cover. (might need a new gasket) Now adjust the cable length until there is just about 1/8 inch or less of play in the clutch leaver. Finish assembly and enjoy! With the inspection cover off this is a perfect time to change tranny oil. If you have a stock exhaust, don't be surprised if your tranny oil drain plug hangs up on the exhaust. Just let it sit there and the oil will drain around it. MAKE SURE THE EXHAUST IS COOL!!!!! | ||
| Buellistic |
Tyronewildman: The primary CHAIN must be adjusted correctly, the transmission fluid must be up to the bottom of SPRING,diaphragm(clutch spring) PN 36708-86 - the manual says the bottom of the gear teeth - go with this! - EZBlast, the clutch throw out bearing BEARING PN 8885 must be in good shape, the shifter mechanism must be adjusted correctly, the clutch ADJUSTMENT SCREW PN 11765Y mus be adjusted correctly, and the CLUTCH CABLE PN 38616-00Y must be adjusted correctly ... THESE PART NUMBERS(PN) are from my 2000 BLAST "PARTS BOOK"(you should have a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your year BLAST)... If all the things above are CORRECT, then IMHO GEAR,first-countershaft PN 35763-89A, GEAR,third-countershaft, and SHIFTER FORK,first & second PN 34142-89C need to be closely looked at and possiably all three replaced ... Had this problem myself because of transmission "ABUSE" and replaceing all three of the above coured the problem ... In BLASTing LaFayette} Otherwise - I concur and if your in deep enough to adjust the shifter pawl - which really did the trick for both bikes for me - then chamfer the edges of your Stator wire protection plate as well. (Message edited by ezblast on August 09, 2007) | ||
| Tyronewildman |
Come on guys & gals. Do you really expect me to believe that adjusting the clutch, clutch cable, & changing the primary oil will have anything to do with my problem of jumping out of 1st gear (jerking) 2 or 3 times when accelerating, from a stop, under load. Really! HOLY SMOKES, it really worked! I have ridden a lot of Blasts cause I teach classes at most of the dealerships here in GA and every now & then, one will jerk once, within a second or 2 while letting out the clutch. It's like there is some slack somewhere in the drive & it's taking the slack out when it jerks & that's what mine does now but rarely. What adjusting the clutch & cable has to do with my original problem, I don't understand. I did turn the adj screw the correct way didn't I & here's the instructions from bcrider.com that I used. (To adjust clutch mechanism remove spring and hex plate, turn adjusting screw counterclockwise until it lightly seats. Turn adjusting screw clockwise 1/4 turn, reinstall hex plate and spring.) I hate fixing something & not knowing why it fixed it. I can take off hard, all the way to the rev limiter, and it only rarely jerks once at the beginning. I put a lot of load on it, at 250#. It wasn't a clutch slip cause a clutch will slip easier in hi gear at the higher revs cause that's where the highest torque is & mine didn't do this. The primary oil level was good & I will change it soon. Now tell me why this fixed it! Thanks for all the help & thanks for the new thread which got a lot of responses... Later,,, De (Message edited by tyronewildman on August 12, 2007) | ||
| Reepicheep |
My M2 did that on two different occasions for two different reasons. First was worn 2nd gear shift dogs. Put it in gear, hit the throttle hard and start to accelerate (clutch completely out) and ***WHAM*** its like somebody hit you with a sledge hammer... Would only happen in second gear naturally. Replaced the 2nd gear pair in the tranny and fixed it. Second felt just like it, but it would happen in first as well. Thought the problem was back... but further digging showed that my worn (but not dead) Dunlop D220 (cough *pieceofcrap* cough) had delaminated a long thin strip of rubber right down the middle, when you were accelerating hard and it hit that magic spot, the tire would slip for a quarter or half rotation then grab again. | ||
| Buellistic |
ATTENTION !!!! Blake Ever since Gearheaderiko has been made a MUDULATOR HE HAS MADE IT A POINT to monitor(prickING) ever thing posted with comments ... NOW his "BUDDY" Ezblast is NOW doing the same thing(prickING) !!! "Ezblast" if you will look closely at the PICTURE of the TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL(page 6-10 in my 2000 BLAST FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL Figure 6-12. Fluid Level) dotted line(the fluid) which is almost, if not touching the SPRING,diaphragm PN 36708-00Y(BIG CLUTCH SPRING) ... "i" will consede that as long as the level is between the "SPRING,diaphragm" and the "CLUTCH SHELL & SPROCKET" teeth all will be fine, "BUT" IMHO it should be just touching as the Figure 6-12 REPRESENTS to be correct !!! THESE TWO WOULD NOT MAKE A "PIMPLE" A MECHANICS "ARSE" !!! In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 12, 2007) CORRECTED 12 AUGUST 2007 !!! By LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on August 12, 2007) (Message edited by buellistic on August 12, 2007) | ||
| Joey |
It seems to me that when I hold the clutch down for a moment after stopping, I let it up, and get going, which is when it slips. It never does it when I downshift and hit first. It only does it when I've had the clutch down for a little while for a stop sign or stop light. I'm thinking maybe the clutch slips just a little because it's been slipping, and maybe has heated up a bit. A complete release may result in some moisture in the transimission boiling and causing a quick slip or two in the transmission. I once held the clutch down for a bit, slowning down, and then hit second gear and punched it and got the same thing. This makes me 96% sure it's a slip in the clutch and not a gear jump. I think that a gear jump would be followed by a gear shred, rendering a particular gear completely useless after doing this a few times. I've had mine do it hundreds of times with no other symptoms. Changing the fluid makes it better, so I'm theorizing moisture. Adjusting the clutch probably helps with heat since the clutch won't be generating heat when pulled if properly adjusted ... | ||
| Ezblast |
Hey - chill - I was just pointing out what the manual says and what for me is easy to see with the cover off - not that you are wrong - geez Laff you should know by now I ain' agin ya - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Buellistic |
If you TWO ARSES have a comment(good or bad),a different opinion, or just want to rock the boat on the wed site you'll do not do it within someone else's POST ... LaFayette | ||
| Glitch |
With language like that posted above, I'd say you are doing your own share of rocking said boat. Calm down. Thanks in advance for your cooperation in this matter. | ||
| Buellistic |
Glitch: "i" am a PEACE MAKER !!! The OLD ENGLISH word is the proper WORD ... LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL  | ||
| Blake |
Not sure the old English connotation is very well known, thus some may take offense at being characterized as such. That said, it sure is prickly in here.   | ||
| Buellistic |
Blake: Good to know you are LURKING ... Had a ENGLISH teacher that could make FOOL of anybody with just the ENGLISH LANGUAGE and they did not have a CLUE ... Could this be start of it happening HERE ??? In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Blake |
So now I must ask... What exactly is the old English connotation of "lurking"? ;)  | ||
| Ezblast |
Peace maker - one who enforced the peace - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Blake |
Thought it might have something to do with making a piece of... ...you never know.  | ||
| Buellistic |
Blake do you not just love it when a plan comes together ???  "i" did not EDIT what my thoughs were/are !!! BUELListic  (Message edited by buellistic on August 15, 2007) (Message edited by buellistic on August 15, 2007) | ||
| Tyronewildman |
I'll have to accept the bad news that my 1st gear dogs are worn and and anything other that light to medium throttle in starting out from a stop, in 1st gear, makes it try to jump out of gear. I know that this is putting lots of extra pressure in the shifting fork, when it happens so I only give it light throttle in 1st and after shifting to 2nd it's O K. I adjusted the clutch 3 times and now know how the release works & with plenty of slack in both the primary chain & the clutch cable & with the inner & outer ramps in their relaxed position & with the clutch adjustment screw not putting any pressure on the release bearing, it will jump a tooth in 1st gear with too much throttle when taking off. Just maybe, unless it gets worse, in a few years, I'll get a wild hair & tear into it and replace the 1st gears or possible I'll be able to undercut the dogs on the original gears. I had to replace 2 of the gears on my '84 Sporty & am less than happy that their's no trap door on the Buells & the newer Sportys. Thanks for the information, guys... Later,,, De  | ||
| Buellistic |
Everything related to 1ST !!! "History REPEATS IT'S SELF !!!" | ||
| Joey |
I just don't see how it can jump a tooth like that without just shredding the whole gear after so many tries. Mine does the same thing, but I've found it's the clutch that is slipping. Condensation in the fluid causes my trouble. When I had this problem really bad the first time, I saw a lot of milky stuff when I opened the clutch cover. I could be wrong. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
I'm with you Joey, I also can't understand how it would jump out of gear then back into gear? Very strange! I'm still leaning towards shifter pawl or goo in the clutch as you said.  | ||
| Swampy |
Shifter pawl adjustment. I think that the shift drum holds the slider under pressure and you get a springing action with the shift pawl, drum and fork, then as you start to move, the slider moves into place and that is the clunk you feel. Try making all the adjustments, then place the trans in 1st, before you let the clutch out push the Blast backwards slightly to try and get the trans to engage before you let the clutch out. | ||
| Joey |
I get something like that, too. If I wait too long to shift into 1st after pulling the clutch, it doesn't go in, and I can feel my Blast not wanting to move. A slight ease up on the clutch, and it CLUNKs into gear. | ||
| Reepicheep |
If you took apart the tranny you would see how worn dogs would cause it. Jumping "a tooth" is really jumping like 1/6 of a complete rotation. I miss the trap door trannies as well. I rebuilt my M2 transmission in an evening.... | ||
| Tyronewildman |
Yep, when I said "jump a tooth" I really ment that it jumps a dog. Reepicheep, what year is your M2. I suppose that when they went aaway from the tube frame is when they did away with the trap door. My S3T is an "02. Later,,, De | ||
| Reepicheep |
It was a 2000... but I traded it in for my current XB9SX. You are correct, none of the XB's* have trap doors, all of the tubers do. (* Except for the XBRR, but that doesn't count). |
