|Posted on Sunday, November 26, 2017 - 03:16 pm: ||
It might be the boot. It might be a faulty enrichener.
But stock they run lean causing the much dreaded carb backfire and boot ripping. So at a minimum I would drill out the air mixture screw cap and adjust the screw to 2 1/2 turns out.
Secondly, Switch to a #45 slow jet.
Resist the urge to "give the carb a good cleaning" while you're there.
|Posted on Sunday, November 26, 2017 - 03:21 pm: ||
Thanks for the advice. Why not clean the carb? Just wondering.
|Posted on Sunday, November 26, 2017 - 04:04 pm: ||
Because a lot of people foul the reassembly and cause themselves more problems. It's also rarely necessary.
|Posted on Monday, December 25, 2017 - 12:56 am: ||
|Posted on Tuesday, February 06, 2018 - 03:38 pm: ||
I have a 2009 Blast, I am about to install the Jardine exhaust system. I live at 6700feet. What jets should I use?
|Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2018 - 10:39 pm: ||
|Posted on Friday, April 20, 2018 - 02:18 am: ||
Thanks! I am now having battery charging problems. No increase in voltage at battery when I rev engine , however I have 28 volts AC at the plug from stator to rectifier. Replaced rectifier/regulator with a used one still no charge. I can't find new voltage regulators for blasts. Do they exist new or is there a replacement/ alternative rectifier/regulator that works?
|Posted on Monday, April 23, 2018 - 07:03 pm: ||
Electrical is not my specialty, but try elsewhere on this forum or
|Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2018 - 12:01 pm: ||
Thanks for the link
|Posted on Friday, May 18, 2018 - 09:41 am: ||
So, last night I had to change my tail/brake light bulb.
Easiest thing ever and I had the bulb in my cabinet as I had bought a two-pack for a car I had previously owned and only used one.
I'm a big fan of dielectric grease and I used some of that as well.
The '07 is still working well. Even has the original battery!!
Firing order: 1
(Message edited by Awf Hand on May 18, 2018)
|Posted on Tuesday, June 26, 2018 - 11:25 pm: ||
Hi, just got in. Been out there riding 'other bikes', when I stumbled into a $200 wrecking yard special - an '05 Blast that had been wrecked at just under 10,000 miles. Landing on it's shifter jammed up the shift drum. Which I've since deburred and been riding. Not sure, just something about being able to wipe the mirrors off at stoplights without needing to move my hands around - but I think the counter-balancer isn't working right....
Anyways, the speedometer quit on me a few weeks ago. In trying to decide if I need to replace the head unit or just the sensor, I found that the wiring diagrams are getting a couple pins backwards
This is for the connector on the back of the sealed speedometer module itself. There's three wires for the speed sensor on pins 9, 10 & 11
The manual shows pin 10 being 'Speed Power' and pin 11 as 'Speed Return'
'Speed Power' is the red wire at the sensor, and it goes to pin 11 on the speedometer. You can see this by looking at the color of the wires and the pin numbers cast into the back of the plug
Pin 9 is the signal, but there's a little something extra going on with this pin. Inside the speedometer, there's a industry standard pull-up resistor boosting the signal line so it has a positive voltage with the sensor unplugged
When the sensor is plugged in, and a geartooth or something gets in it's sensing range, it connects the signal line to ground
The pull-up inside the speedometer is purposely made small enough that it can't keep the voltage from dropping, and you will see less than a volt
Without the geartooth, or when the sensor is unplugged, the signal line will have well over 6 volts. But because of how the pull-up circuit works, the exact voltage will always be a percentage lower than whatever the battery voltage is
In my case, if I measure 12 volts on pin 11, I get 9.89 volts on pin 9
I cut apart the old sensor. I'll be rebuilding that with a much better hall sensor. The old sensor is an Allegro with these numbers: D459JPC 665 0450 I couldn't find anything on it, but judging by how many of these sensors seem to be dying, I think I'll be much better off doing this my way
I already had a handful of sensors from a project I did years ago. I'm using one of thesehttps://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Melexis/MLX90 217LUA-CAA-000-BU?qs=KuGPmAKtFKWjUVEf6U%252bOdw%3D %3D
Just glue a magnet on the back and cast the thing into place with some non-metallic epoxy (no JB Weld!)
The sensor housing has it's internal support pins crossed, so it's a good idea to check which wire goes to which. The white wire is connected to the middle pin, which is not the standard pin layout for hall effect devices. So I'll be doing some bendy pin gymnastics using my forceps, to crisscross the signal & ground leads. It helps to solder the power in place first
I've had the speedometer connected to a breadboard on my workbench, with a spare sensor. For triggering, I made a tonewheel using a 4" cutoff arbor and some random roundy steel thing I chopsawed some notches into, chucked into a hand drill and spun that really close to the sensor
Without a load, my drill only runs just a bit under 1700RPM's according to my oscilloscope(1666.6666 based on the pulse pattern I was getting). The tonewheel has 36 teeth and with that combo the speedometer only reads 25 MPH. Slowing the drill down gets a slower speed reading on the speedo
By the way, I also tested every other pin. Some I connect to pin 8: reset oil & neutral. The rest I connect to pin 12. Lights up like it's christmas time!
It's one thing to think the turn signals are showing for both sides while I'm riding, but when it's all on the bench and I'm not busy staring death in the face, now I see that there's really only the one LED that lights up for either left or right turns. Fixing that means cutting the seal and more messing around. Or I can just ignore that. One less LED = lighter bike!
(Message edited by missionbolts on June 26, 2018)
|Posted on Friday, June 29, 2018 - 10:22 pm: ||
Ok, just an update on my rebuild of the speed sensor, part #74431-01B
1st off, the rebuild is done and works just fine. Here's a few pics to help explain what all happened
This is the sensor cut down to just above the o-ring groove & with the hall effect device unsoldered and removed:
If I did this again, I will leave a lot more above the groove, maybe 1/4". The pin ordering is unconventional, the ground would usually be the middle pin
Turned a bar of beeswax to make an impressionable plug gauge:
This wax rod fit loosely in the sensor hole on the bikes engine. I held the rod snugly against the gear inside while turning the rear wheel. This caused the gear to scrape of a bit of wax & left an impression to show me exactly how centered the gear is to the sensor. But more importantly, this is how I got an exact measurement of just how far the gear teeth are from the sensors mounting flange. I cut a line into the wax, using a razor blade. This was 1.214"
Marks left in the wax:
The flat spot on the side is from the wax rod being loose enough to sit that far off center, with the gear teeth dragging it to that side. Judging by what I see here, the gear & sensor are in perfect alignment to each other
Using a drillpress to keep things square & steady:
Height was approximately 1.16" The magnet on the hall device comes in very handy here, as it grabs the cast iron table just perfectly. Later, I wrapped the drill chuck with masking tape, to keep it from rotating
The pins for the ground & signal output are bent, until they lay up neatly against the soldering points:
Cutting down the magnetic pole piece:
I wanted the magnetic field to extend out a bit further in front of the sensor, so I added a small bit of permalloy I hacksawed out from the back of a junked car speaker. This is permalloy, which conducts magnetic fields better than plain steel. I turned the chunk into a rod, then shortened it until it fit between the stack of magnets and the plastic housing. Hotglue keeps everything from shifting until I can cast it permanently in epoxy. The hotglue is soft, so that might even help absorb shocks & vibrations which could potentially break the solder joints apart. Or it will allow the parts to move around too much and break the joints apart that way...
Another view of that:
After deciding against getting too carried away with making a split mold to recast the barrel on the housing, just wrap it with masking tape:
Then filled that with epoxy:
I used West Marine G-Flex 655 because it was what I had. It's too thick for getting down inside a cavity like this, but I settled it in place with a toothpick until most of the worst air pockets were worked out. This epoxy is much better than the home improvement stuff, for general repairs. Even works underwater
Tape freshly removed, showing a few bits that need trimming down:
I just handheld this on a 10" stationary disk sander, very lightly to remove the step in diameter & then to square off the end and bring it down flush to the hall devices face. A wider masking tape would have been better, but the sensor fit just fine on the 1st try. The o-ring ought to be doing it's thing like it always had
5-pin test cable:
On the breadboard is the hall device, with magnets attached. If I had more hands, the speedometer would be reading 25 in this shot
Then I took a junk IDE hard drive cable and cut it down into a 12-pin test cable:
All lit up:
If I get inspired enough, I suppose I could hook this up to an Arduino or maybe an STM32 and make my own version of the HD speedometer test tool. But mine would be way better!
Anyways, this rebuild turned out to be a lot easier than I was expecting. Total cash outlay somewhere around $5. Time involved could be just a weekend if I wasn't such a slacker. Digikey has all the hall effect sensors you could want. I chose an automotive rated part that has automatic calibration for the magnetic field strength. That way I didn't need to spend that much time getting the magnet to work right. I put a link to the part number on a previous post
Now to do the endurance testing. Get back to me in a year to ask how this holds up, but now I've got some riding to get on with