| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
See ya'll on Tuesday! (except EZ-We'll see you tomorrow!) | ||
| Brummer |
Hi folks, I drive a Buell blast and have some questions about my bike. I'm new to Buell, and although I have owned it for 2 years, I just am used to getting on it and riding. This season it won't turn over. The engin almost did once, and I tried to roll it over down hill, but nada! The sound it makes is click click click click....it just keeps on clicking. I'm sure clicking isn't the "technical" term, but that is how it sounds. I really don't want to call the guys @ the dealer, any thoughts about what I might be able to do? } | ||
| Jmynes |
Sounds like a (nearly) dead battery. Corroded terminals, maybe? But since it's been sittin' awhile, probably dead battery. | ||
| Peg |
Can I ride without the timing cover on? I don't know how it came off but I wanted to ride yesterday and while checking the bike over I noticed it was gone. | ||
| Swampy |
Yes, and glad you found us over here! | ||
| Peg |
so am I so today brings a new problem. I was riding and when I got to about 65 mph it started sputtering and then the engine just died. I tried to start it back up with no luck. I turned off the bike and waited about 1 min or so and the bike started and I made it to work. On the way home same thing except the engine continued to die every 2 miles. The first 30 miles were fine. Please help I have no idea? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Ignition module. clogged or pinched gas tank vent line. Rollover valve in gas tank. Coil. Faulty safety switch (clutch,kickstand,bank angle sensor). Or? Check the easy stuff first. | ||
| Ezblast |
Concur! | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
hey folks, long time now see! I'm finally putting my blast back together, if anyone remembers my exhaust cam crapping out and such. I ended up taking a nice six months to put the new cams in, new oil pump, new piston, and got the valve guides and seals redone. Everything's great until now, when it's time to put the front isolator mount thing back to the frame. I have a pile full of spacers and nuts and bolts, but I don't recall exactly what order they go in. That and I need to see how the rear tie rod attaches to the frame, so if anybody has any pics laying around that have high res views of these areas, that would be awesome. I've been going through the areas slowly, but it's taking forever and I need to get the engine all mounted up so the hard stuff is out of the way for this weekend and I can do all the minor things through the week when I have time and be ready to ride saturday. thanks in advance everyone! | ||
| Jprovo |
BMHD, I'll see what I can do for pics. | ||
| Swampy |
Does anyone know if this service update applies to the Blast? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/32777/155801.jpg It has to do with torquing the crankshaft nut. | ||
| Jprovo |
I don't think so, there has been no mention of the Blast in that bulletin. | ||
| Jprovo |
BMHD, I need to go get batteries for the Camera!! On the Isolator mount, you should have the following parts for the center: Center Nut, Big Center Washer, Isolaor, Front engine Mount, Small Center Washer, Center Bolt. They go together in that order from the top down. For the right and left, you should have two nuts, two funny shaped doubler-washers, two spacers, Two Bolts, a star washer, a flat washer, and the Isolator support Plate. The Right assembles in this order, top down: Nut, Doubler Washer, Frame, Spacer, Isolator, Isolator Support Plate, Bolt. The Left assembles in this order, top down: Nut, Doubler Washer, Star Washer, Frame, Spacer, Isolator, Isolator Support Plate, Ground Strap, Washer, Bolt. Hope that helps you out. James | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Hopefully you havent unthreaded the rear tie bar and changed the adjustment-However if you have (only if you have), it should be the same adjusted length as the front tiebar. This knowledge was gained by matching up several different tiebars and finding them all to be the same length. It is possible that they might not be of equal length from the factory. So if they came from the factory adjusted to different lengths, I wouldnt change them just to be equal. | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
James, that's golden! I was trying to look at the pictures in the manual but having no luck. Thanks a ton man! Gearhead, the rear tie bar is just how it was when it came off. The only problem is I seem to have misplaced the bracket that mounts onto the frame right there, as well as that hardware. I'm just going to order a new bracket and hardware and start fresh instead of trying to sort through what's left. I'm so excited to have my little beast back, no more will I be paying half my check to gasoline every two weeks! EDIT: Just got back from the dealer, I got all my nuts and bolts I misplaced ordered except for the....cam position sensor bolts. Those weren't in the parts manual, so I'm coming up at a loss as to how to find them. Oh and I also remembered why I stay away from HD dealers.. Pro-series plug: $16.95 WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT?! oh well, he had already charged me before I caught it, sneaking bastads. (Message edited by burnmyheartdown on April 10, 2006) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
There arent any brackets for the rear tie bar, just bolts.(except the fuel tank support which you can get away without using). Cam position sensor bolts? If you're talking about the timing plate studs/igniton module bolts, buy a set from HD/Buell. Someone used aftermarket bolts on my FLH and they broke off without any effort-and they are dam near impossible to drill or back out if broken. PS follow the manual for the timing cup.Torque and Loctite the bolt per manual. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on April 10, 2006) | ||
| Mike_the_bike |
Help!! I am ready to ditch my Blast and buy a Ninja 500. The Dealer reco'd a V & H pipe, muffler, jet kit and air cleaner. My bike idles very high and backfires and / or sputters. Steady highway speed, acceleration, slowing down, off the line or sometimes when i'm shutting down - the bike backfires or sputters but then quickly corrects itself after a few seconds. The carb was cleaned, boot was changed, auto choke / idle replaced and the mechanic tried several jets in the carb. After almost one year, this is a disaster. The stock size V & H jet (165) EATS MORE GAS??? ABOUT 7 mpg LESS THAN THE STOCK JET - SO CONFUSING!!! There is a 165 jet in there now. The kit goes from 150 - 175 - HELP!! Please advise... Thanks, Mike | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well they obviously screwed up your bike because what was done (exhaust and intake) shouldnt have hardly any effect on running. You sadly found out how many dealers feel about Buell and especially the Blast.Its really not that complicated a bike. Dont panic, we're here to help. Follow the jetting in the carb section (45 slow & 170 main). It really sounds as if your ignition module has gone bad with the inconsistent symptoms but check the simple stuff first. Carb boot. Spark plug gap. Gas tank vent line. Float setting. Others will help. Realistically I'd tell them to put the bike back to stock and make it run right (if they'd do it for free-they should). Then do the mods yourself. | ||
| Naustin |
A lot of "mechanics" have no business touching anything more complicated than a ball point pen. Sorry they f`ed up your bike, man. Do like erik suggested and hopefully you can isolate the problem(s) yourself. Or - if you are not comfortable working on the bike - find a different dealer/independant bike mechanic who actually cares about his customers and reputation. Good luck. | ||
| Jprovo |
Agreed, If you're bikes not running right, it sounds like the dealer screwed it up. Sputtering is a sign of a lean condition. I would adjust the idle mixture screw make sure that you do not have an intake leak. | ||
| Ezblast |
2000 - could be ignition. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Mike_the_bike |
Dear Guys, I can't thank you all enough for your help. I went back to the dealer and they are going to change my jets as per erik's specs for the jetting. They were very gracious about it. Recently the carb was cleaned and the boot replaced. The Electronic Idle was also replaced.I checked my spark plug today and my engine is running too lean without question. Now I see this post about 10% Ethanol and I am using it now in 93 octane gas. Should I go even larger on the jetting than 170 / 45??? In all fairness, I don't want to make my dealer go crazy and do work that will not be correct, again. Thanks again, you guys are the best! Warmly, Mike | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Probably a 175/45 might be better (assuming K & N uses the same numbering system as stock. DynoJet doesnt). However I dont think just changing the jets is going to solve your problems. The Blast is not that sensitive to jetting changes and I'm assuming you live at or near sea level. Something more is going on.If its at the dealer I might mention "hey is it possible the ignition module went bad?" It might be coincidence, but you have a lot going on which just an exhaust and air cleaner change is not going to cause. While the dealer might tell you something like "its now a high performance motorcycle subject to running irregularities" EZ and I have made significantly more modifications to our bikes without any such problems arising. Are they running it on the dyno? Are they making these changes for free? If you're paying for this work is it possible to find another reputable dealer? (I know there are still a few other Buell dealers in the tri-state area). | ||
| Sarodude |
I'm with Erik on this. This is something besides jetting. You'd be surprised at how lean you can run the Blast and not have it misbehave - assuming you don't burn it down first. Other gremlins are afoot. -Saro | ||
| Mike_the_bike |
Thanks Saro - And thanks to Erik too. The dealer is checking the Ignition module and all wiring and electrical components for defects or shorts. The jetting is being addressed at the same time, however, the new Buell mechanic at Harley New York, Raj, was surprised at the 45 slow jet. It appears that the jetting Erik reco'd is a subject of debate here. He said he would look into it further. Raj is the new Buell mechanic at Harley NY and he seems to be very sincere and interested in Buells. I get the impression that he really takes pride in his work, good news for anyone considering a Buell in NYC area. I think having the right attitude is half the battle and he seems eager to do the right thing. I thanked him for the long phone call and I'll touch base with him after the Holiday weekend. On that note, a Happy Easter and Good Passover to all - and God Bless us everyone. Warmly, Mike | ||
| Jmynes |
Surprised at the 45 slow jet? Hmmmmm....... Let's review. A 45 slow jet is currently being used by (I'm guessing here) 98% of the Blast riders who frequent this board, with good results. And the Ace Mechanic at your dealership thinks he knows better. Be afraid. Be very afraid. | ||
| Xgecko |
yup with about 80% using a 170 main nd the other 20% using location or build specific jetting (like me using a 175) My Dealer in Hawaii thought I was crazy for using a 175 until they Dyno's the bike and while it wasn't a huge diference it was noticable. For me I noticed it more in mileage (better with a 175 than a 170) and midrange power. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - the WB rocks! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
Even the cops are out to get you. This just justifies everything I've ever said about cops and how they drive... http://www.kare11.com/news/news_article.aspx?storyid=121475 | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - I had an SFPD off duty roll right over my front wheel at a stop light and then say he hadn't seen me - I thought we where supposed to share the lane? - I gave up on the Police a long time ago. Theirs is a thankless job with lousy moral and it brings a poor attitude in dealing with people. Some of these guys are busting their humps to do the right thing, however, the majority are not. Most of the time I am just thankful that they are not as corrupt as the rest of the worlds cops - due to all the checks and balances built into the system, however, even that may be optimistic - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
