| Author | Message | ||
     Ralphthe3rd |
OH Too Cool- IT worked !!! Now I'm gonna try the other style of linked photo.... Oh btw- the above photo was the early version of the Blast racer, note the low exhaust and pushrod cover. In the photo I'm about to link to , which was taken on july 27th, you'll note the bike now has a high pipe and old Harley style pushrod tubes.... Here goes :  | ||
| Rd350 |
Oils, I have been running the Mobil 75W/90 in the tranny for a while now. The only thing that I have notice is when you first start up the bike and shift it into first it sometimes makes more noise than it should. This is because the oil is thinnner and over night has all go to the bottom of the pan. Hasn't had time to flow over everything yet.. As for mixing oils I have been doing it for last 20 years on lawn mower engines. All that happens is that it breaks down the viscosity quicker. Turns the oil blacker quicker. I run the mowers 55 hours a week for 28 weeks a year. That is 1540 hours. Compared to the average lawn owner at 1 hour about 20 weeks a year. So..in one years time I am putting 77 years of life into a engine. The engines last about 6 years before rings. That is 462 years 9240 hours on the engine and most of the time it is with mixing oils. Never had one die or blow up from mixing. And trust me, mowers don't get the love that a motorcyle does. The mowers don't have suspention to help with vibration, they get more dirt in the airbox, and don't have oil filters. The lawn motor engines and the Buell are almost exactly the same single piston, air cooled, ohv, rev to 6500 RPM, etc... If it gives you an idea lets say that you change your oil every 2500 miles average speed is 50MPH so you are putting about 50 hours on the oil before changing it, to 55 hours on the lawn mowers.. Right now I have mix blend in the Blast since it was the only oil I had sitting around. Hope this helps.. | ||
| Ralphthe3rd |
Synthetic oils/old topic- but new(?) oil ! Hey guys, I'm a little late on this topic , but I've been reading your posts since the begining. In my Blast, I've used either the mobil 1 (auto oil) in 15w50 or later I've used the Cycle specific 20w50. I'm sold on Mobil 1 , but always like to hear about and try new stuff.... Which leads me to an oil weight I hadn't noticed before- Castrol's "Syntec" now comes in -20w50 ! I was just wondering how long thats been out and if anybody has heard about it or tried it. It seems to be a few cents cheaper than Mobil 1 btw. | ||
| Sarodude |
Ralph- Is that MINUS20W50? Like in NEGATIVE20W50? That's some drippy shite. I imagine the only use for such an oil (if negative viscosity index is possible) would be in SUPER cold climates... -Saro | ||
| Ralphthe3rd |
~LOL~@ Sarodude ! Yeahsureyoubetcha ! Ok, so I slipped a key...it was JUST supposed to be: 20w50 ! Have you tried a glass of the red with a t-bone ?....it really brings out the flavor  I see I'm about to go thru the hazing faze  | ||
| Blake |
RD, I love ya man, I really do. You certainly have a unique way of observing and then reporting things. "The only thing that I have notice is when you first start up the bike and shift it into first it sometimes makes more noise than it should. This is because the oil is thinnner and over night has all go to the bottom of the pan. Hasn't had time to flow over everything yet.. " That is peculiear to me, cause I experienced the exact opposite. When Nallin Racing returned my M2 to me with the tranny full of Royal Purple 75W90, it seemed significantly less clunky, less noisy, and was definitely easier to shift. But anyway, what is "more noise than it should"?  "> Anyone here know the viscosity rating of the stock Sport Trans fluid? Someone have access to equipment to measure it? | ||
| Xgecko |
I'm with Blake I changed the fluids yesterday (admittedly the engine was still a bit warm) and I immedially noticed how much smoother everthing was. BTW I am now a Valvoline Synthetic Man... Mobile 1 15w20 Synthetic was either not available or $3-$4 more than Valvoline 20w50 Synthetic and the 75w90 was $6 more expensive. I know part of this is is because the Walmart has cornered the Mobil 1 market but I ain't riding an hour out of my way for oil. Lately because of this all I've been putting in has been Valvoline anyway. Back to the subject at hand...My wife noticed the change in transmission noise coming from my Blast after I changed to Synthetic as well...her words "I hear the exhaust more and the engine less" so I gues that's good. I don't miss shifts as easily now except when I really miss them. It certainly feels better. On the Subject of cool doodads that I'd like the factory (or anyone else) to make If they was to sell me Pegasus addons they need to make something that the bike needs. instead of axelcovers how about a Blast/Firebolt/Lightning Derby cover. Yeah I know it ain't big like a sportsters but it's still something that I would change if a better looking thing came along. I know I did with the Crossroads timing cover. That and it could give Buell (or an aftermarket company) the chance to change those F$%^#&* stupid Torx bolts. | ||
| Loki |
oopppssss | ||
| Blasterd |
HEY GUYS, i HAVE BEEN READING ABOUT THE OIL DEBATE HERE AND i JUST HAD 1 QUESTION......SO WHAT IS THE BEST OIL TO PUT IN THE BLAST? CURRENTLY I USE GENUINE HARLEY DAVIDSON, CAN ANYONE ELABORATE ON THIS? | ||
| Blake |
Blaster, You will find all such elaboration you can likely stomach in the Lubrication Topic in the Knowledge Vault Blast, Twin, XB9, it makes no difference. A good quality synthetic is the way to go for optimum lubricant integrity and protection.  | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: Blasterd My $000000000.02!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Have a 97 S3T with almost 50K....... Never had the heads OFF.............. Have always used HDI 20W50........... Change oil and fliter every 2K PEROID!!!! Have been known to run it hard!!!!!!!!!!! In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Rd350 |
Blake, I would agree that the Mobil 75w/90 in the tranny is better than the harley stuff. It is quieter and smoother shifting when you have the engine running. But I was talking about start up in the morning. Most of the time when I start the bike up it sounds like I am going to break something with a very loud grind/cluck/crunch when it is put into first. After riding the bike to the end of the street it goes away and never does it again. Until the next day when I have to start it. My old S1 never made that noise and when I ran the Harley stuff it didn't make this much noise. I even tried to tip the bike to the left while running to see if the primary chain would get the oil through everything faster. But that didn't work either. When the bike is warm it shift perfect and makes no noise. And when changing out the oils the Mobil looked like water and the Harley more thicker. So I a guess that the oil is so thin that it drains completely into the pan. I could be wrong on this.. So what do you think it is? | ||
| Blake |
RD, I think you are making a HUGE leap in assuming that the tranny oil is to blame. It could be any number of things from clutch adjustment to idle speed to ambient temperature to worn tranny parts to the acoustic environment where you are now putting the bike into 1st gear. And of course, you could very well be 100% correct. One comment on your observations... If your Mobil-1 75W90 really "looked like water" then something was seriously wrong with it. It would have to be contaminated with gasoline or some such solvent for it to have the consistency of water. You were exaggerating to make a point (that it was significantly less viscous at room temp) there right? Unfortunately, none of us actually know the viscosity grade of the Sport Trans, so it's a difficiult issue to responsibly address. And of course the temperature of the oils make a big difference too. Can you be certain that your apparently less viscous Mobil-1 75W90 was not perhaps at a higher temperature than the apparently "thicker" Sport Trans you recall? My experience has been that on a cold start my M2 with Sport Trans always made a loud clunk if shifted from neutral into 1st gear. To mitigate the hard clunk, I usually gave the throttle a good twist and popped it into 1st as the revs dropped back towards idle. I notice that with the 75W90 Royal Purple Synthetic (probably very similar to Mobil-1 75W90 in viscosity) that Nallin Racing put in the tranny, that my M2's initial shift-to-1st clunk is not so severe as it was with the sport trans fluid. Also, previously (with Sport Trans), if started cold with the clutch pulled completely in and the tranny in 1st gear, the bike would lurch forward upon engagement of the starter, more so on colder mornings. This no longer happens with the 75W90 synthetic. And since I can now start the bike with it already in 1st gear, no more CLUNK! I can just start the bike and go. (No, I don't sit there and wait for the heads to warm up; I usually take care and am easy on the engine for the first minute or so though.) My experiences seems to be opposite of yours, which is what confuses me. I've always had the impression that it was the cold tranny lube's relatively high viscosity and it's effects on the clutch (viscous connection between plates) that caused the clunk in the first place. Why? Consider that idealy, with the bike sitting still and started in neutral with the clutch pulled in, the tranny should be motionless right? The only thing driving its input shaft is the viscous action of the oil transferring torque from the input clutch plates to the output clutch plates. A tranny lube with lower viscosity, like when it gets hot, significantly diminishes such undesirably sticky clutch plate interaction. Thus the hard clunk goes away as the tranny warms up. A lower cold viscosity lube should have the same effect during startup, right? It is certainly my experience that it does. Like you, I also believe that the synthetic 75W90 tranny lube is probably less viscous at room temperature compared to the OEM Sport Trans fluid; the Sport Trans may well be something nearer an 80W90 tranny lube, but without specifications from the factory or a conclusive test, we just cannot know what the heck viscosity grade it is. It could be a straight 90W for all we know. As to the lube draining/sheeting off after a ride... I would be very surprised if the Sport Trans left a significantly thicker film behind compared to the Mobil-1 75W90. It's possible though, and if true would indicate that the Sport Trans has a higher operational viscosity, like an 85W100, or such. But in any case, the oil film left behind after shutting down a hot bike/tranny is most likely insignificant as far as its ability to act like a cushion between impacting tranny dogs/gears. The tranny needs to be spinning to get any meaninful layer of lubricant to protect against such an impact type scenario. Here's a mental experiment to illustrate the behaviour of a viscous lubricant in an tranny clunk type of impact loading scenario... Pour a puddle of Sport Trans onto an anvil and dip the head of a hammer head into it. Then, bring them flatly together. SPLAT! There will be some cushioning. The thick films of oil keep the metal surfaces from experiencing an abrupt collision; through their viscous nature and mass properties, they act to cushion the blow, decelerating the hammer before it actually makes contact with the anvil surface. Now turn the anvil and hammer on their sides and heat them to 180oF; let cool, and bring them flatly together again. TING! Not much cushioning going on and the hammer rebounds violently as a result. Anyway, if your clutch adjustment is in good form and throttle blipping is undesirable and you are concerned about the violent CLUNK, you might give my method, starting the bike in 1st gear, a try. Oh yeah, one other benefit of the 75W90 synthetic... I can now simply pull in the clutch and push the bike easily. With Sport Trans, it was nearly impossible on a cool morning to manually move it without first putting it in neutral. | ||
| Dansherman |
oi That was the longest post I've read in a while.. Very informative too, glad I've got Mobil 1 75W90. -- dan | ||
| Blake |
Dan, You LIKED that?! I have more. ![:]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Prof_Stack |
Xgecko and others have noted that in order to reduce or eliminate the CLUNK when shifting from neutral to 1st gear, pull and hold the clutch lever for 3 to 5 seconds and then gently press the shifter into 1st gear. Blipping the throttle does help but its an acquired art. Blake, are you saying that a clutch adjustment would eliminate the clunking? | ||
| Ltlboybuell |
Fun Afternoon Turns Scary thanks to Dealer: Well I was enjoying my nice 3 hour ride around the city and backroads and stopped at the woman's place for some refreshment. When leaving my buddy pointed out a nice puddle of oil and dripping from the Left Side of the swingarm. For some reason it almost looked as if the engine/oil tank puked about 4-8oz or so of oil. I guess it expanded some after sitting from being ridden pretty hard for the las couple of hours. Things got even better on the ride home when the oil managed to coat the rear rotor and pads (especially since there alot of uphill riding and stop lights !!)...oh let's not forget the rear tire. Seeing how this was the first time I rode it after my 1k srvice I called the dealer with the usual WTF questions. His answer was that they need to be REALLY careful when changing the oil since the sump holds some even after draining and they're easy to overfill unlike the twins!!!! Well duh, no chit, tell that to my shorts. Anyhow he told me that there is an overflill drain (?) back there that probably puked the excess oil. The only thing I can see is the tank vent hose and the two PLUGGED drain lines. Can anyone confirm this or give some insight here. I went back out and fired it up after getting off the phone (it was still very hot) and found that the oil, even after puking, was just a hair above the high fill line. Where is this mystery overfill vent and where the heck could all of the oil come from. I want to make sure I clean everything and I realy don't much want to try the slip and slide again anytime soon. Please feel free to email at RGSJR99@aol.com. Thanks All!! Rich | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
There IS a vent line in the left rear peg support...snakes all the way down to the tip...i have the same problem with some oil dripping out after its beeen sitting a while. | ||
| Xgecko |
OK on a Stock Blast both of the oil lines have plugs in them. one the the breather vent line and the other is the oil drain line neither should be without a plug (in stock trim). Also in the same place is the Gas vent lint but if that is puking oil you really have a problem. It sounds like either A) they didn't put the plug back in the breather vent line B) they didn't get the plugs seated properly. C) the oil supply line is at the base of the gas tank cover on the left side...that could be loose. D) they overfilled and that is where the runoff went E) they filled the filter and then they put two quarts in. (I have done this and made a big big mess) The blast is easy to change the oil on and it only takes 2 quarts. Anymore and oil will go everywhere, fill it cold to the mid line and oil will go everywhere (and you will likely loose a few gaskets do to overpressure). I would take it back to you service department and demand a cleaning and that they check everything. If the pumped oil out of a tank (many service departments do this they likely overfilled it. BTW raise the BS flag...the sump holds a negligible amount of oil if they allow the drain and the filter areas to drain. | ||
| Dansherman |
I'm with Xgecko on this one (suprise). My money says the wrench at the dealer put in an extra half quart. Two weeks after I got my bike the oil light came on (2000 miles of hard riding), I called the dealer and said WTF, he explained about the oil puking into the airbox and suggested that since it wasn't due for service yet, just top it off. I don't remember how much I put in, but it was too much. The next morning I had a nice little slick on the garage floor. It's easy to overfill, especially if your used to working on bigger bikes (as the dealers usually are). Anyway, make them clean it up and check everything over. "easy mistake" is no excuse for a professional. -- dan | ||
| Ezblast |
Remember fellow Blasters to check oil only on a warmed engine-I know - duh - but it had to be said. Blasting on the dark side! EZ | ||
| Blake |
Make the dealer install a new set of rear brake pads too. That's their bad. | ||
| Ltlboybuell |
Thanks guys, I cleaned everything up on Sunday, drained about 6oz of excess oil and everything seems to be OK except for some residual loss of rear braking from the pads. Dealer has a set waiting so it's just a matter of stopping by and getting them thrown on. In the process of cleaning up I decided to check the air box and guess what I found... the filter was cocked goofy in the box. I put in back in properly and went for a ride and it's either my imagination or the bike pulls alot better at 50-60mph. I just ordered an E-Series system from White Brothers so I think I'm officially bitten by the bug now. Has anyone done mods to the license bracket/tail section? I was thinking of removing the license bracket and fab'ing up a new mount and installing some different signals. | ||
| Xgecko |
take a look back in the P3 blast forum I know I posted some photos of my various rear fender mods. In the end I hacked off a lot of the rear fender plastic and attached a set of LP short stalk signals. you will like the E-series just make sure that your dealer uses the torque valve if you have them do the swap | ||
| Scot |
EZblast,has your Yahoo group already bit the dust? | ||
| Kyuss |
978 miles (6,700K total)... phew! the roundabout way to NYC. Not a single problem! carved up the backcountry and lit up the city through traffic. I regretted not strapping my stock bars to the bike! My wrist are feeling it pretty hard... although I did adjust the clubmans to what I find to be a MORE Comfortable position and the steering column locks (good thing when your parked in brooklyn for two days). I saw an old triumph with the clubmans on and they were angled so from the side the bars pointed straight down toward the ground not back on an angle (like mine were and some other blasts I've seen). besides it now locking I found alot more control at lower speeds with it this way. I got extremely un-nerved about 30 miles outside of manhattan when I finally had to hit a Highway with 8 million cars all going way above the speed limit... until traffic built up from an accident that shook me up pretty bad. It was a Duck (same one that passed me doing about 100 minutes before), 998s extremely tweeked out, in pieces (literally broke through the guardrail) and the unfortunate owner already pronounced dead lying under a yellow plastic cover on the shoulder. So I made the decison to drive in through the dark streets of the upper bronx rather than the highway! which wasn't really safer! will post pics after lunch when they're developed! oh and by the way has anyone ever heard or had the experience of having the fork completely absorb a pothole at 45 miles an hour! It was dark... I thought the wheel shattered my headlamp it was sooo loud and also you find your crotch meeting the gas tank at an unrecommended rate of speed. :o | ||
| Blake |
Kyus, Sounds like one heck of an adventure. Glad you and your blast made it home in good condition. Potholes, I remember those, I think.  | ||
| Kyuss |
here are pics from the trip not all buell related but cool nonetheless    | ||
| Hootowl |
I bought a Blast for my wife for Christmas, and now I am wanting to put a jet kit in it. (I've been riding it to work since my X1 has been sick and I can barely tolerate the lack of power in the midrange.) She doesn't want a loud pipe, so I'm forced to use the stock can. Will the bike benefit from any jetting changes while retaining the stock muffler and if so, what jets do I use? Thanks... |
