| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
XG, I think you may be confusing the phenomenon of pressure wave reversion with plain ole exhaust system back pressure. Back pressure is the pressure required to push exhaust from the exhaust port to the tail pipe. Your aftermarket pipe is freer flowing; it thus develops less back pressure than the stock exhaust.  | ||
| Xgecko |
Blake, The WB pipe has a smaller exhaust outlet that the stock pipe or my V&H. Push more gas and the same air through a smaller opening and you have more pressure. YESS??? At least that is how I understand chemistry. The WB Pipe with the torque valve in use effectively increases the compression a bit. If I limit the amount of incomming air (low throttle) there is not enough to push out the old exhaust gasses left in the chamber and it ocasionally comes out through the carb. Open it up and it seems to start better. Now I don't have the rough warm up problem that Rich has but then I live in paradise where the temp never gets into the 60's (well at least for 360 days a year). It is a bit ragged on startup but after a few minutes it's fine...usually though I just start and ride. | ||
| Kyuss |
 I am sad to say I received a DWI in my car last week! I just bought a house and can no longer afford the blast and the heightened insurance... I love her so much! I would greatly appreciate an honest appraisal of my blast from anyone out there.  - no decals - new pirelli (rear) - some rust on stock pipe - comes with clubman bars (bar-end mirrors), 2.5" superbike and stock bars - new head gasket from damage at 2,500 miles - new battery from stripped terminal on old one - 3,500 miles with last full service at 2,500 - good looking as pictures suggests - other than riding in my underwear x-mas morning, no reckless driving (i.e. burnouts, stoppies, etc) 2 beers at 135 lbs is illegal?!?!  until next time... keep blastin' on the darkside Kyuss | ||
| Mikej |
Kyuss, You're best bet is to watch E-Bay and CycleTrader and see what asking/selling prices are. Blasts seem to be selling for between $2,500-$5,000 depending on how they are set up, who is selling them, who is buying them, and where and how they are being sold. Money's tight, market is tight, and somewhat a buyer's market. Near me is a decent 1998 S3 a guy is selling, his Firm $6,000 price is now around $5,400 or so. He claims it dyno'd at 120hp at the crank (adjusted/calculated I assume). A Blast is a great bike. But a modified bike of any kind requires the right buyer. Did you get the "smoking" taken care of or fixed? A smoker bike will take a huge price hit. Take care. Another option is to turn the Blast into a track bike until things settle down. Or mothball it until you can ride again. Or float an e-bay auction with a firm reserve price. You just never know what someone will pay, and your bike may be just exactly what someone is looking for. You just never know. | ||
| Kyuss |
the smoking (head gasket) is covered under warranty and being replaced tommorrow... | ||
| Mikej |
You might want to ask the servicing dealership about their consignment options? Then double that up with the advertising if it's okay with them. | ||
| Mapes |
I was on vacation last week in Ohio and passsed a yellow Blast heading North on 23 towards Toledo. The bike looked great and I was quite excited to see one. I haven't seen one (except mine) on the road yet. It looked like a 2001 Blast with a windshield and saddlebags with yellow piping. They were riding with another guy on a Harley. Let me know if this fits your description. I tried to give a "thumbs up", but was in a cage so I'm sure it wasn't noticed. I was jealous...it was such a pretty day. | ||
| Blake |
No, the dynamics of an exhaust system are MUCH more complex than your characterization. If it were simply a matter of bigger equals more efficient, imagine how easy it would be to design a performance exhaust, just make it very large diameter. Fluid dynamics governs the efficiency of the exhaust system. Chemistry relates to the combustion process (a chemical reaction catylized by heat).
I assume you mean "back pressure", not "compression." Even so, you are making a very big assumption. The torque valve in the WB system may be doing any number of things... (creating a tuned pressure reversion, providing attenuation to pressure reversion waves, maintaining exhaust velocity near the port...).
Like I tried to explain earlier, a pressure reversion wave can enter the combustion chamber while the exhaust and the intake valves are simultaneously open , the reversion wave momentarily reverses the initial flow of the intake charge, thus causing it to pass the slide twice, picking up extra fuel and thus becoming over-rich. What is generally reffered to as "back pressure" will not cause such an effect. The "back pressure" of an exhaust system is the converse to the flow rating of a cylinder head exhaust port. A poor flowing head has high back pressure. An exhaust system that flows well will have low back pressure. These are steady state properties that do NOT account for the intermittent pulsating characteristics of an actual running engine. The unsteady flow of the exhaust is what creates the reversion waves that can cause over-rich problems.
Incoming air does not push out the exhaust in a four stroke engine. Seems to me that you are too lean. Better flowing exhaust is allowing your engine to draw in more charge and the enrichener's effect is thus diminished. | ||
| Xgecko |
OK I'll stop. The amount of carbon in my pipe seems to say I'm rich not lean and I have a hard time beleiving that a non combusting engine can generate a reversion wave  but I'll beleive you. I need to change my intake and get it Dyno Tuned so most of this is moot for me anyway | ||
| Buelliedan |
Now that we are totally confused by our engineer Blake  I have a simple question. Has anybody found a decent set of footpegs for a stock Blast yet? My wife has very small feet(3 1/2) and the big fat stock pegs make it difficult for her to shift. A nice set of billet pegs should help. Dan | ||
| Xgecko |
Dan, two words....rear sets | ||
| Blake |
"OK I'll stop." Hmmmmm, not sure I believe you. "The amount of carbon in my pipe seems to say I'm rich not lean..." Could your engine be running rich at other than idle? Like say for instance at cruise (needle) or beyond (main jet). "I have a hard time believing that a non-combusting engine can generate a reversion wave..." I thought we were talking about a freshly started running engine. Remember what Dan said?... "Ok, I spent a couple more minutes trying to figure it out. Everything runs great when the RPMS are up, but when I drop into neutral (at idle) it dies."? | ||
| Buelliedan |
Xgecko, This is for my wifes Blast. She is a brand new rider and I don't think she is quite ready for rearsets yet. I just want a nice set of aluminum footpegs that are skinny and don't droop.(same thing I look for in a woman  ) | ||
| Mikej |
Dan, Look at the XB's footpegs, available at many dealerships before the XB was. You could always chop off the feeler pin on the bottom of the pegs. Since it doesn't sound like the twin-tube_framed-Buell footpegs will fit, perhaps the factory utilized the same new configuration for footpeg mounting for the whole line of their bikes. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Mike, I already thought of that. The problem is the Blast uses a peg with a tiny little hole and the Bolt uses a normal size hole with their pegs. Unfortunatley you can't just dril the hole bigger because the peg mount doesn't have sufficient material to work with. | ||
| Aaron |
Hmm ... y'know, you can buy little bolt-on female peg mounts that allow standard small end male style HD pegs to mount right up. Seems like it'd be fairly easy to chop off those stock tangs and drill a hole. Maybe I'll try it ... | ||
| Buelliedan |
Aaron, Why didn't I think of that? I guess thats why they pay you engineers the big bucks!! Thanks | ||
| Hootowl |
Great idea. | ||
| Prof_Stack |
re: Special tools. For those who have gone through the drudgery of changing the gear oil (sport/tranny), do you have a suggestion for a special tool to help get to and loosen the three nuts that allow the left foot bracket to come loose enough to get to the top T27 torx screw? I'd like to find a faster tool. Currently, I use a 5/8" socket with universal and long ratchet plus some unkind words. | ||
| Dantheman |
Can someone give me the link to crossroads? I lost the site's address when I switch internet companies. P.S. I put a down payment on an XL1200S.. Anyone looking for a Blast! around Novemer? | ||
| Dansherman |
Well, it idles! I went to drill out the plug on the idle mixture screw, and noticed that the cap was already off. "Hmm", I thought, "Isn't that the screw I took out when I thought it was a jet? And didn't I tighten it up all the way when I realized it wasn't a jet?" So.... I backed it off 2-1/2 turns, started it up, and it worked! After a little bit (3 minutes or so), it started sputtering so I backed it out a little farther, and everything works great! Tony was right, but thanks everyone for the ideas! -- dan | ||
| Dansherman |
Dantheman - http://www.nvo.com/crossroads Everyone - Wheee!!!! Just took the bike for a shakedown ride. BIG difference over stock+pipe. It pulls much smoother now, even over just the Vance and Hines. Stronger too! It feels like there's a surge near the top end, but that might be my imagination. I'll have to get it on a dyno sometime this summer. Anyway, if your sitting on the fence on jetting: DO IT -- dan | ||
| Blake |
Dan, That's good news! Suggest you reinstall the 45 jet and adjust idle mixture screw for optimum idel speed. More than 3 turns out indicates that you need a larger pilot jet. | ||
| Rd350 |
Prof, Well it sounds like you are using the right tools. Sorry no special tools. Keep up the good words. They seem to help out more than the tools.. | ||
| Xgecko |
Prof you could replace those F$%&^# Torx screws with easy to remove Allen head screws and then use a key and a breaker bar. then you just need a funnel to pour in the tranny fluid | ||
| Dansherman |
Blake - Did that . Now if only it would stop raining! -- dan | ||
| Phillyblast |
Prof., No special tools that I know of. Some special words, though  I just went through this removing the rearsets and putting the stock y-pegs back on the Blast for the purchaser. Changed the tranny fluid while I was at it, just to save the hassle later, since I sold it to a friend and I know I would get the call when the time came anyway. Allen head screws are the way to go. Rearsets are even better, gets rid of the whole problem, but they're not for everybody. btw, off-topic, love the new-to-me S2, put 400 or so miles on it in the last week, everything from commuting to work to some back-road blasting over the weekend. I'm shocked at how good a commuter bike it is. Stop and go city traffic not a problem. Not as good as the Blast was, though. Course that's to be expected. pic of the new bike in my profile, btw. david | ||
| Shotgun |
Prof, if you're gonna keep the Blast for awhile and work on it, do yourself a favor and drill holes in that stupid LH footpeg support so you can run your torx wrench right thru it without touching the support bolts. If you put a bigger hole in the center, you can even do your clutch adjustment w/out removal too. I sent photo's of my old Blast mods to headquarters, but never heard Boo about them. Guess ol' HD dealers would rather pad on the time it takes to knuckle-bust those nuts off. |
