| Author | Message | ||
     4_pete_sake |
Need to replace belt.... I have the service manual but it wants me to take off the whole darn swing arm.... unless I am reading it wrong..... it seems odd that everyone wants to travel with a back up belt but you have to go through all of this to change it ???? i understand no one will have one if it breaks in the middle of anywhere, but you will need a decent shop it would seem to do this.... now mind you I have a lift and some decent mechanical know how but maybe I am over thinking this.... which mind you happen often.... if anyone has documented this on here...which I am certain they have somewhere.... I can't get to it due to search issues.... can someone clear this up for me please..... Dr. Greg, Froggy, tippsymcstagger, etennuly, wolf....etc anyone.... cheers-pete | ||
| Froggy |
Swingarm brace, not swingarm. Two or three Allen key screws. Look at your swingarm, you will see what it is.  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Oh and loosen but not remove the axle. It's shaped like an apple core and will allow the rear wheel to move closer to the engine. This is the one thing I failed to do when I tried to do it myself! | ||
| 4_pete_sake |
oops.... I read at probably a turd grade level.... thanks cheers-pete | ||
| 4_pete_sake |
huh.... less than 2 hours... worst part was loosening the axle.... damn I put that on too tight or something.... oh and putting the idler belt pulley back on.... that sucked.... BUT..... these things are pretty darn easy to work on all and all..... thanks Erik..... no really... THANKS.... cheers-pete | ||
| Etennuly |
Sorry I wasn't around to help yesterday, on the idler pulley, it is most difficult to get it started on the studs. Next time just loosen the nuts clear to the end of the studs and slide the idler pulley out as far as it can go. It will be loose enough to get the belt on it, then you just slide it back down the studs to tighten it.  Glad you got it going. Some of these thing look large in the book, but once done you look back at it and say "that wasn't so bad".  | ||
| Pso |
If the old one is not broken keep as spare. If it is broken maybe order a new one, use the present one for several thousand miles then swap out in your garage and use it as a spare. It is stretched so, as most have found out you can leave the idler pulley alone to put on the used belt, thus making roadside changes even easier. Roadside swap is easy, just carry tools for swing arm brace, allen head for axle locking bolt and breaker bar for rear axle to lossen and then tighten till you can get a good torque wrench to torgue up rear axle (I carry a torque wrench for this purpose)properly and also socket for bolts that hold on right side bag racks. If it was that hard for rear axle, swab it down very liberaly with Anti-sieze compond or it has been known to corrode itself solid. If you are stretching this belt to use as a spare, when you replace it, it would be a good time to slather antisieze all over the axle, plus as other have stated they slather anti-sieze on the beaaring seals to help prevent water intrusion. If the difficulty was from over torqued check the spacer in the rear wheel. Some folks think that overtightening the axle may squash the spacer and thus account for some of the reported bearing failures. Have fun with your 06. If it is like mine your wrenchng has just begun. So far nothing catastrophic, just a PIA Being stranded alongside the road 2x now (Both electrical)shakes my confidence in the bike.As I have stated over the last several years the person hat designed the electrics for this bike should find a new vocation. | ||
| 4_pete_sake |
Thanks for the helpful future ideas Vern and Pso... much appreciated.... next time I want a air conditioned shop too.... 90+ in the shade wasn't that bad but it wasn't that great.... keeping belt for spare.... threads popped a little on one side making it not track right around the rear sprocket (?) making me nervous..... did a 100+ today... ran great no worries... all muddy again ... ahhh.... GOD I LOVE THIS BIKE!!!!! Cheers-pete |
