| Author | Message | ||
     Larryjohn |
So I decided to swap the pulley and brake rotor to my new 2010 rear wheel and I have gone through two T45 torx sockets and have yet to get a bolt loose on the pulley. I was finally able to get the brake rotor off using a torch to heat up the bolts. I am not having such luck with the pulley bolts though. So does anyone have any suggestions before I go out and purchase another torx socket? Should i get one of those long handle torx wrenches instead. Or should I really put the heat on those bad boys and not worry about scorching the finish of the wheel? Thoughts? | ||
| Etennuly |
No. Use an air driven 1/2" drive impact wrench(see your local garage or bike shop if needed)with a Craftsman torx bit. It will only take a minute or two with an experienced mechanic. The impact wrench's torque/hammer action will take them right off. Be sure to hold the bit in the bolt head square and straight from the start. | ||
| Tk052 |
Larryjohn, Go to Sears or an auto parts store and purchase an impact driver for about twenty to twenty five bucks. You will need a Torx built in to a socket. The tool is about 1" dia. 4" to 5" long with a 3/8" or 1/2" end for a socket and when you strike it with a hammer (chisel style), it turns the torx Clockwise or counter clockwise (you set it) with a shocking blow. If you soak first with PB Blaster or equiv. it should work for you! | ||
| Tk052 |
Larryjohn, Go to Sears or an auto parts store and purchase an impact driver for about twenty to twenty five bucks. You will need a Torx built in to a socket. The tool is about 1" dia. 4" to 5" long with a 3/8" or 1/2" end for a socket and when you strike it with a hammer (chisel style), it turns the torx Clockwise or counter clockwise (you set it) with a shocking blow. If you soak first with PB Blaster or equiv. it should work for you! | ||
| Florida_lime |
Should i get one of those long handle torx wrenches instead ? The longer handle (T-type?) wrenches twist, loosing that "shock" you need to break them loose. The hammer-type impact driver, or an impact wrench, with a good quality Torx bit should work for you. | ||
| Larryjohn |
Thanks for the info guys. Definitely two methods I was not thinking about. Unfortunately neither has worked so far. I first tried my pneumatic impact wrench with a Lisle torx bit (which seemed pretty stout) but that bit disintegrated after a couple of minutes without even budging a bolt. I then went to sears and got the impact driver and a new torx bit and worked on the wheel for a good 10 minutes with a 2 lb hammer(after letting some PB blaster soak for a few minutes) with no luck. So I thought I would go back to the impact wrench on a lower setting and destroyed the 4th bit. Fortunately the 4th torx bit was a craftsman so I should be able to get it replaced for free. I'm thinking I might let the dealer give it a go tomorrow since I need to have the tire taken off the old rim and put on the new rim anyways. Man what a pain in the arse, I don't think I have ever had to deal with anything this stubborn. | ||
| Towpro |
i just did mine and had no problems. You have to "shock" them loose. (with years of practice) I have gotten good at hitting the end of the ratchet with a plastic mallet to shock them loose. . If I had found one stuck, I would have tried the impact driver you hit with a hammer next. Not only does it provide shock, it drives the bit into the torx hole to prevent it from skipping. | ||
| Terrafirma |
While you all are talking about the Torx screws, I was changing the oil last night and it went off without a hitch, but when I attempted to change out the primary oil and was bustin' the screws loose, the last one just stripped out, now I cannot even get the torx bit to bite, any suggestions?? any help is appreciated. | ||
| Florida_lime |
You might be able to hammer in an allen socket into the buggered-up Torx head; the hammering alone may help loosen it up. If not - a good chisel, working in the direction you need to go would be my next attempt. | ||
| Ronmold |
This method always worked for me on stuck seat belt bolts that would strip out or shatter a #50 torx. I would take an air hammer and a pointy bit and start the bit into the outer part of the bolt head making a divot and then slowly working the bit almost perpendicular to the bolt shaft banging away on the head in the direction to loosen. I would repeat this on the other side of the bolt head to give it some push from a different direction. If you do this before you strip out the torx it's still usable but ugly.  | ||
| Etennuly |
If I were having trouble getting a hand held impact driver or an air driven one to break it loose, I would use a heat gun and warm those things up. Mine goes to 1100F degrees, so it has to keep moving around as not to burn off the powder coat. They need to be just over too hot to touch in this case, in order to break the thread locker loose. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
I broke a torx too so i took it to a motorbike shop that works with harley, and he hammered hard on the head of the screw then put in (with the hammer) the torx bit and with a ratcher he took all 6 of them out with no problem. | ||
| Terrafirma |
Thanks all, I'm going to work on that torx screw this PM. Hopefully, I'll get er done!! | ||
| Larryjohn |
Well, I took it to the local dealer this morning and they swapped the tire and pulley for $38. As my dad use to say, I must have been holding my mouth wrong. All is good now though. I got the new wheel, comfort kit, and a new belt installed. Now I am just about ready for homecoming (not that any of those things are really needed for homecoming). | ||
| Larryjohn |
Oh and thanks for all of the help fellow badwebbers. | ||
| Pso |
$38 bucks sounds like a good price to me. Congratulations. If I can find and fix the problem with my bike I hace a '10 wheel ready to mount. If I do not get the bike fixed reasonably, I will sell the bike and then sell the wheel seperatly. |
