| Author | Message | ||
     Uly_dude |
It appears my fluid change over the weekend didn't fix my problems. Going to work(5 miles) yesterday everything worked great. Going home it started to act up in stop n go traffic. Coming to work today I barely made it. Not sure if I'll make it home now(if unfamiliar with my problem, please read the http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/559914.html?1272901268 thread started last week). So now I'm conteplating taking the clutch out and replacing whatever is wrong in there. First I'll check the fluid again though. I'm pretty good at taking things apart and putting them together again, have lots of experience working on my dirt bikes. But to you all-knowledgable(bowing down) XB experts out there, I have a couple questions; First, is this too complicated of a job to take on by myself? Or is it pretty basic? Second, are there any special tools required to pull the clutch basket, replace plates if needed, etc and reassemble? I have all your basic mechanics tools and then some. Ordering a repair manual today off of ebay($48). I'm not looking forward to hauling this into the dealer, paying $1000+ and waiting 2 months for my bike. Besides, it's a harley motor right? How much more basic can this thing be?? Thanks in advance for any advice. Greg | ||
| Hughlysses |
Judging from the amount of spooge you found in there previously, I wouldn't be surprised if you need to do another fluid change (or 2) to get it all out. Once you're sure the fluid is staying clean, check the primary chain adjustment, then do a "major" clutch adjustment. If those things don't improve it, then I'd consider tearing into the clutch. IIRC there is one specialized tool required for disassembling the clutch pack. You also need a locking bar (available from American Sport Bike) so that you can keep the engine from turning while you remove the nuts from the primary sprockets. Otherwise, it's pretty straight forward. | ||
| Satori |
One trick that is used in the cage world, when a car has been flooded, even hydro locked. To get the water that remains in the engine after draining everything. 1. put new oil in, inexpensive,cause your going to do this at least 7 times, but when you add the new oil, add about 20% of it as ATF tranny fluid. 2 run this at idle for a few minutes until warm. 3. change and repeat until it comes out clean at least twice. 4. change with just straight oil twice. 5. then put recomended oil back in. The reason for the ATF is its high detergents, which will remove all the splooge from the nooks and crannies. Now I dont know if it could create harm w/ the clutch packs, I would probably put it on a stand so I could run it in 1st gear for a few between changes. Good luck! | ||
| Hughlysses |
Good idea about the ATF. I wouldn't be scared to run it with straight ATF (I've seen at least a couple of tuber riders post that that's what they normally use anyway). ATF should be ~1/4 the cost of Formula+. | ||
| Uly_dude |
Thanks for the help Hugh and Michael. I loaded up on ATF and cheap motor oil last night. Probably won't get to it though til this weekend. Crappy weather coming anyways. I sure hope this flush takes care of it. Though I was reading in the knowledge vault, and the primary case and clutch look pretty simple. Have to get a special tool from American Sport Bike first, and a couple other odds n ends. I'll let you know. Greg | ||
| Dr_greg |
IIRC there is one specialized tool required for disassembling the clutch pack Yes. You need a spring compressor tool. --Doc | ||
| Arcticktm |
You need the spring compressor tool if you are removing/changing the clutch pack (fiber and steel plates) or diaphragm spring. You would need the locking bar if you are going to remove either the clutch basket (not needed to change plates) and/or the primary gear/sprocket. Both tools available from American Sport Bike. Search in Knowledge Vault for "clutch" and "primary gear". I posted my history with changing out clutch pack (my OEM fried) and with changing to lower XB9 primary gearing. Both involved dealing with the same areas you are looking into. I found it to be pretty straightforward, being reasonably mechanical, but having never worked on any HD or Buell trans before. | ||
| Uly_dude |
Ya, that's good to know. Sort of what I'm thinking to. It's good to hear it reinforced though. I'd much rather do it myself, cause once you bring it to the dealer and you say "anything motor" they get big dollar signs in their eyes and you're at their mercy. That's one great aspect about these bikes is their simplicity and serviceability I feel. |
