| Author | Message | ||
     Mrsnuggles |
My clutch sounds like a duck! For the past several months my clutch has felt a little 'loose,' and gave the sensation that it wasn't activating until pulled near half way to the bar. The dealer suggestion was to tighten the clutch cable, which I did, and it did change the feel, but only slightly. My thoughts were that at 20k miles, I was nearing my service, and probably the EOL on something mechanical (that I would have looked at during the next service). On the ride home yesterday, it gave. Luckily, I was close to home, and I was able to get her into the garage without pushing (or calling anyone for help). I played around with cable settings, and opened the cover plates to have a look, but the trouble is, unless it was chewed to pieces, I wouldn't know exactly what I'm looking for. This is the first bike I've had that I haven't worked on, so this may be the first (major) thing I decide to get dirty with. My question is for anyone who might be able to clue me in on what I may be getting into. When you pull the clutch all the way to the bar, it makes a whining noise that sounds like a duck in a hydraulic press. The force required to pull the lever back has also increased significantly - seems like it's fighting back. Any ideas on what I might be getting into when I start taking things apart? | ||
| Odie |
Remove the clutch inspection cover and see if the tabs on the primary cover have been cracked. The one on the right hand side in this pic is completely gone and the one on the left is partially missing/cracked. Just had it happen to me. Fixed permanently now.  | ||
| Arcticktm |
Also know that there is a clutch adjustment that must be done periodically via the cover in Odie's post above. You should do this adjustment first, then re-adjust the mid-cable adjuster. Unfortunately, sounds like you may already have damage from something. You need a Service Manual! Don't attempt any repair without it. It is reasonably priced, and quite well done. I had to replace my entire clutch (fried it) and the SM was top notch in making it do-able. | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
Looks pretty much like this, then: http://screencast.com/t/5HxIhcMTnXk (Message edited by mrsnuggles on July 30, 2009) | ||
| Odie |
Yup. That's it. I take it that is your bike? | ||
| Hughlysses |
At least it's an easy (but not cheap) fix- buy and install new primary cover. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
That's so weird. They crank out a bad batch or something? It couldn't hurt to call up customer service to see if your VIN raises any red flags. | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
I'm hoping all I have to do is replace the primary cover... I've been wanted to replace it with the matte black anyhow. | ||
| Hughlysses |
They crank out a bad batch or something? That's a good question. Is it a just a rare defect, or did they change the design at some point and beef up this area? | ||
| Hooper |
Does it walk like a duck? You might be riding a duck. | ||
| Mrsnuggles |
Nope... just quacks like a duck... everything else is pure buell heaven. | ||
| Odie |
Mine messed up a few weeks ago. I pulled my lever in and it felt like a few strands of the clutch cable had broken. The clutch was dragging and making the bike crawl forward. Got it home OK and the clutch cable was fine. I'm at about 21K miles so I figured maybe the clutch needed replaced. Seemed too soon to me but I pulled it to be sure. Clutch pack stack mic'd out within specs and everything looked fine. I remembered (after tearing everything apart) that someone had had the tabs break on them and had posted how to fix it. I found the thread below. I looked at mine and sure enough, both sides were cracked. This really screws up your clutch adjustment. I have a good friend who is an engineer/machinist. He looked at it and the thread below and said "I'll have it for you tomorrow afternoon". And he did. Everything works fine from very limited operations. Been raining here like crazy. A lot of folks have reported much easier shifting but I haven't ridden it enough to know. I do know this- by virtue of the design and strength of the materials used in this area I feel it is a matter of time before it happens again. I'm sure some bikes will last forever and never have a problem. I didn't want it to happen again so this will be a permanent fix for sure. Instead of drilling all the way through he tapped the backside and used 1/4 x 20 small head screws with Locktite (red). The OEM screws on the inspection cover needed to be trimmed some to fit properly. About 1/8" off the ends. He milled about .0060 off the back of the primary cover for clearance on the clutch pressure plate. Basically they way Obiwan did it with a few small differences. A new primary cover is $225 before tax and shipping. That is the easiest and probably fastest way to fix this. However, I wanted a permanent fix to a potential future problem.   http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/282980.html?1219880122 | ||
| Garrcano |
Is it possible to get a drawing with the dimensions, PLEASE? I want to be prevented to the fail and it takes a bit of time making it by hand as I do. THANXS | ||
| Froggy |
Odie you should start selling those! | ||
| Odie |
We(my engineer/machinist friend, Victor) discussed that. If I could get a few broken ones from somewhere to have as swaps then it would be easy to do. I have the factory paint and I could even powder them if someone wanted it done. Mine is powdered black. I feel this is only going to happen again as it is a weak area in my opinion. That's why I didn't buy a new one. $225 just to have it happen again would suck. Right now I am just trying to get caught up and keep customers happy and finish an 1125 pipe so this will have to wait a little bit. Everything is here to do it, I just need spares. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Odie- that definitely looks like a better-than-new fix. This looks like another one of those weird problems. Some bikes with 50k+ miles and never a problem, others with broken primaries and much fewer miles. Maybe there's something relatively critical about the clutch adjustment to keep this from happening? I.E.- if you keep your clutch adjusted too tight (little free play) maybe the mechanism "bottoms out" when you pull in the clutch? This could over-stress the cover in this area until it eventually breaks. Just a thought. | ||
| Odie |
I can confidently state that this fix works great. Of course time will tell on durability but I can't see it being anywhere near as weak as the OEM design. It shifts MUCH better now. I'm trying to figure out why still. It's like butter. Yes, my primary chain was properly adjusted before and yes, the fluid was new (Formula +) and it was at the proper level. Yes, the cable was lubed properly and even put a new one one just recently. Other folks have reported better shifting with this mod. I'm very pleased. I need some trashed ones (interior only) to do some mods to now. | ||
| Scooter808484 |
I'm having a hard time visualizing what that lip thing does. Any easy way to explain it??? | ||
| Hughlysses |
I believe the mechanism that pushes in on the clutch to disengage it pushes out against that lip on the cover. I'm guessing the steel plate lip flexes less than the aluminum cover and that's why it seems to work better. | ||
| Odie |
I agree. I think the reduced flex of the steel is the key Hughlysses. It's the only thing I can think of. There is the same amount of adjustability still. Went for another ride to warm things up and checked primary tension. All is well. Shifts better than it ever has. Better than new even. The lip holds the release mechanism in place. Right out of the manual- "When the clutch is disengaged the pressure plate is pulled outward by clutch cable action against the diaphragm spring. With the pressure plate retracted, strong inward force no longer squeezes the clutch plates together." Basically, the pressure from the diaphragm spring is transferred to the lips in the primary cover when you pull the clutch lever in. If you have ever taken a clutch pack apart you will understand just how much pressure this really is. | ||
| Delta_one |
any idea what pricing may be if you choose to market it? | ||
| Paul_in_japan |
This happened to me a few months ago (2005 XB12R). I replaced the primary case cover with a +06 Model one which has been redesigned. Unfortunately this means you also need a +06 gear shift linkage as the hole for the shaft in the +06 Primary case is bigger. While i was at it, I got the (lighter) +06 clutch spring and +06 clutch cable. Total price including gaskets and oil seals etc. $320 U.S. Had i bought these parts here from HD Japan they would have cost over $1000 U.S so I was happy with the outcome. | ||
| Obiewan |
Just to let everyone know, mine is still working great. It was done in June of 2007. Been to the Dragon twice since then.  Still solid as a rock. Not as nice looking as Odie's friend, I'm not a machinist as you can tell .... LOL.. | ||
| Boltrider |
This just happened to me. My broken lip looks almost exactly the same as the others. 2008 Firebolt with 14K miles. | ||
| Debueller |
For future search results: broken primary cover |
