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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through October 11, 2009 » Engine trouble light occilation « Previous Next »

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Archive through October 05, 2009Florida_lime30 10-05-09  06:42 am
Archive through September 21, 2009Etennuly30 09-21-09  01:42 pm
Archive through August 31, 2009Etennuly30 08-31-09  09:08 am
Archive through August 04, 2009Aceldama30 08-04-09  04:38 pm
Archive through July 23, 2009Arkaybee30 07-23-09  07:19 pm
         

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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, October 08, 2009 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I have ridden at least fifty miles each day but one since Buelltoberfest, and I am about to do it again within the hour. It has been flawless regarding this issue.

I will be testing a new pair of heated HD gloves this morning. They had a clear out of old stock, good prices for something I have been needing.

I will post pictures of the two ECM's for your comparison as soon as I get them downloaded.
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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, October 08, 2009 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)



The original at 41,000 miles, the seat rubbed it when it was new for about 3,000 miles. That is when I put the second block in it. I put RTV sealer on the gaps caused by the seat bending the plugs down, when in for a warranty issue they pulled some of it off for whatever reason.





This one came from Orangeulius' '06, he put a race ECM and kit on his when nearly new. No rub marks at all.




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Florida_lime
Posted on Thursday, October 08, 2009 - 11:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

So the front rub block fits the rear with no modifications, right ?
I made an aluminum spacer to see if there was any change, figuring to p/u an OEM one when I get "a round tuit".
Longer ride home from work yesterday in 90+ degree weather with no problem, but I might shoot for a better test this afternoon.
My original ECM has the cracking, but the one I have from Gamdh looks new. I haven't had the chance to install it -- I don't have the equipment to do the TPS reset, etc.
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Xbimmer
Posted on Thursday, October 08, 2009 - 12:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I couldn't get my seat to latch with the rear block installed until I cut it down some.

So far so good with my new ETS, except for two concerns. First, temps around here have dropped this past week 30-40 deg so I'm not getting the chance to do some hot riding. Figures.

Second, idling and running is great again, although the other day my light came on (steadily though) on the freeway twice and stayed on until I slowed to a stop. Couldn't repeat it the last couple of days. Pulled the codes and the 14 and 21 are gone but the 13 remains (O2 Sensor).

Looks like I'll be back under the hood this w/e, the O2 Sensor wiring is looking a little abused under the airbox, maybe I'll get lucky with a bad connection.

I've got other fish to fry anyway maybe... when I went to the independent shop to pick up my James seals the mechanic told me it sounded like I had a lifter rattling. I thought it had sounded a little noisy and thought it might have been the 15-50 Mobil 1 needed changing, but new 20-50 didn't help much.

60K seems to be the magic milestone for me.
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Etennuly
Posted on Thursday, October 08, 2009 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Got to be someone in Fla in your area that has ECM Spy or VDSTS. Easy to do.

The rear block made it hard to get my low seat locked the first time. I just forced it a bit, never had a problem with that since. When I went back to the stock seat it wouldn't latch either, so I just forced it, all is well since with that one too. Sometimes you can leave the spare seat lying about and it will 'settle' requiring a little force to make it latch.

I wonder if the o2 sensor can get compromised over time also. I know I have at least three spots where the wire has been toasted or rubbed through. I will probably change mine when I get back in there.
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Florida_lime
Posted on Friday, October 09, 2009 - 06:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm just waiting for my schedules to match those of another member 90 miles away, or I could go to the dealer just as far away (NOT happening if I can help it !).
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Xcephasx
Posted on Monday, November 23, 2009 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

+1 to WIGGLE TEST
i, as some of you know, have had this same problem too. changing o2 sensor, plugs, going through the flow-chart a dozen times, etc. etc.

rode from vegas to san diego this weekend, with the CEL/spark skip the whole way when the flux capacitor was supposed to kick in at 80mph.

this is a problem i have pretty much learned to live with. but on saturday morning i went out, took my ecm out, wiggled all of the wires going into the connector especially the Blue/Orange and the Red/Yellow and then put the ECM back on, using a socket as a spacer to keep the seat off from the ecm. (maybe it's just the spacer)

anyways, came home at 80-100mph the whole way (100mph up the hill leaving the san bernardino valley) with ZERO INCIDENCE. so i don't know what the answer is, but i think i'm going to keep my eyes open for a gently used wiring harness and have me a weekend project some weekend in the future.
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Xcephasx
Posted on Monday, September 13, 2010 - 12:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

just a follow-up here, to anyone searching these threads with similar problems.

i have been through this problem twice, and each time (months or years apart) it has been that the r/y wire had rubbed through to something under my seat.
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