|Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2015 - 07:08 pm: ||
1. The outer cover rubs on the inner, which I will attempt to address.
2. The wires and hoses are routed in a fashion to satisfy simplicity and production line needs, but look like there are a few areas in which airflow could be improved.
Has anyone ever played around inside there? I am considering going in there, just to tinker. I a also going to pull my starter out and apart, and find a new o ring for it. (Or use hi temp RTV to seal her).
|Posted on Thursday, December 03, 2015 - 10:48 pm: ||
I would guess the airbox is all about volume and pressure rather than "unobstructed flow" hence the tubes and wire looms directly against the filter are not an issue for intake performance
Assuming that is what you are talking about.
|Posted on Saturday, December 05, 2015 - 09:43 pm: ||
I'm putting my RX back together from a valve clearance check.
So I'm in the airbox...!
There's a coupla places that "might" help. How much...who knows, but with a hand full of wires in there in the center of the air stream, it sure can't hurt to "clean things up a bit". In my opinion, the higher the RPM, the more the below information can help.
Taking my cue from the "obvious" and from the BMW S1000RR I used to have... ON the BMW, to adjust the valves, one had to cut 38 zip-ties to get to the cam cover. This IS from the factory..!
Item #1 to do -
Straighten the air inlet parts. The main, thru the frame tube is probably not smooth and tight to the frame. Mine at least was not. With a heat gun, I heated the "tube" so it sits nice and square, all "straight" edges. No humps and wavy edges.
Then...you have to do the same to the filter holder. Make sure that the filter holder is "inside" of the main inlet tube. Not outside or partially in and partially out. This is terrible for airflow.
Item #2 to do -
I did the same thinking as you question. There was "one" zip-tie holding the wiring to the fuel manifold.
I now have..."several".
Five on the fuel manifold/wiring.
Two on the wiring/hose that goes up to the valve on the right side (I assume it's a "smog" item).
Two on the rear fuel line/wiring.
One holding the hose from the left side to the right side valve, is now snugged to the upper injector bracket (black bracket).
The wiring is pulled snug to the fuel manifold and rests on the top of the manifold where it's zip-tied in place.
There is now, no floppy wiring, wiring and fuel lines are "stacked" so that the airflow only has "one" item to pass by.
Everything is BMW cleanly run and snugged to something else to reduce the "stuff" in the way of clean airflow, and remove the fluttering wires.
It's in the little "details" that make for a good running engine...of any type.
All this COULD...even remove stress from the wires to the connectors. Wires that are continually moving on one side and solid on the other, can eventually break, or at best, break "strands" with a given wire that can reduce the voltage/amps that go to the regulator and upper injectors.