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Just_ziptab
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

From another thread,I installed a new belt on my XB9R that seemed too tight. Got home from the work ride and the idler bearing bolt is too hot to hang onto. I'm pretty nonsensitive to hot objects that others will feign away from or drop. So this thing has to be over 150 degrees after a 25 mile ride in 85 degree weather. Can somebody touch their idler pulley after a similar ride and tell me what they got? I really think the bearings(new) are generating the heat as opposed to sucking heat from the engine case into the pulley fork. If I thought it would work,I'd take the idler pulley off and leave it at that..after all ,tubers run loose.But the XB,sans the idler would probably be too loose and rub shit that it ain't supposed to rub. My other option would be to mill a new front bolt hole(elongate the existing one) and let the idler tip down a bit. I really fear breaking a new $175.00 belt...or worse,shelling out the tranny bearing. On my other hand,the rear bearings are only warm .............but there is a huge mass there as a heat sink......../
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Svh
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Maybe get that springy idler bracket from Trojan Horse. Not home right now otherwise i would help you more. Good luck.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 07:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I took my CR to work today, I will use my non contact thermometer to get the temp after I get home (30ish miles)
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Just_ziptab
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I looked at the Trojan Horse setup and if I figured money conversion correctly,it's like $181.00, plus shipping. Not that I'm cheep,I just don't want to go that route. I'd rather find that I have the wrong part someplace in the system(seems impossible)or that YES,it does run hot and tight and it's completely OK,even tho it goes against my mechanical judgement.
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Spiderman
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 09:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

heat=friction

the bearing may be new but that doesn't mean it was put together right or that they oiled it before sealing or the seal failed causing said oil to leak out..

Press out the bearings and install some new ones...
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I lied, I forgot to check! : (

Hopefully I will remember tomorrow.
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Just_ziptab
Posted on Wednesday, August 12, 2009 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You are forgiven...just don't no ever no never let that happen again........ I probably worry too much anyway. I hear you Spidy and those bearings are cheap,compared to a belt.........but the belt tension "could" be the cause if they failed and that in itself would probably not strand me on the side of the road. I could limp home with noisy bearings in my 25 mile commute. Even if it tears up the pulley housing,I have a spare. I ran several days on a bad rear wheel bearing that creaked pretty bad when warmed up,yet never spun in the hub...gambled on that one. The bad one had a very slight leakage around the seal. I've seen similar sized bearing run a long time on equipment at work,simply because we couldn't shut down the line if it was not a major threat to production(Sacrificial running).Less load,but higher shaft speeds.
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