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Archive through February 27, 2008Jlnance30 02-27-08  11:00 pm
         

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Mcgiver
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 12:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Brake pads, tires, and suspension settings, all kind of similar in that one is not perfect for all situations. Try to find one that works for you in most of your typical riding, and that one is the best for you. Lyndall's work fine for me most of the time,(also cleared up the brake jitters). Brian
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Mikef5000
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 12:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Race use pads are generally TERRIBLE on the street. They will never get up to proper temperature on the street unless you're riding VERY aggressive, and a race use pad not at proper temperature will give you much worse performance than a regular pad.

Stick with street pads on the street, and race pads ONLY on the track.
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Mikef5000
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 12:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

And brake fluid... what you want to look for instead of rating, is boiling point. The higher the boiling point the better! Most regular fluid has a moderate boiling point, and recommends flushing every two years. Most performance brake fluid has a higher boiling point, but requires flushing every year.
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Jramsey
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 05:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thumper74
You cannot accurately check a rotor for warpage with a straight edge.If its out that much its toast.
You can have a dead nuts true rotor mounted on a possibly tweaked carrier or vice versa.
It really needs to be checked mounted on the wheel spinning on its axis using a dial indicator.
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Jaimec
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 07:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mike: The higher the DOT number, the higher the boiling point...
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Thumper74
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 07:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Yeah, but a wheel spinning on it's axis could introduce other variables such as wheel bearings (causing a wobble(inconsistent distance from the dial indicator))
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Supafast
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 08:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Joe, Im prob going to Frederick this weekend to p/u a neck gaiter, if you have any left?, and to make an appointment for service. At my next service Im going to have them put the pads on. According to UPS, they are to arrive today.
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Jramsey
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 09:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thumper
You need to install a new set of wheel bearings if your getting that much wobble.
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Damnut
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mike: The higher the DOT number, the higher the boiling point...

Not entirely true. You can get DOT 4 with different wet and dry boiling temps. The cheaper fluids have a lower boiling temp.
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Mikef5000
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Damnut FTW. The car/motorcycle requires a certain DOT number. I personally stick with the DOT number recommended, despite the fact that DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 are compatible. But within that DOT number, every brand and type of fluid has different boiling points.

Pentosin Super DOT4 - Boiling Point Dry >260 C (500 F) / Wet >170 C (338 F)

ATE - Super Blue DOT4 - Boiling Point Dry >280 C (536 F) / Wet >200 C (392 F)

Pentosin - Racing DOT4 - Boiling Point Dry >300 C (572 F) / Wet >200 C (392 F)


DRY = brand new, out of a sealed container, into a completely flushed system
WET = after it has absorbed moisture, generally about a year in a sealed system.
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Firebolteric_ma
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 12:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Jim getting ready to school us on Brake Fluid.....Please go on Jim....

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Glitch
Posted on Thursday, February 28, 2008 - 12:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks Mike
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