Author |
Message |
Wolk625
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2012 - 06:21 pm: |
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Fiddled with the ignition key wires and diodes on the x1 and by whatever black magic it finally runs Fantastic!! Thank you Fastcar! So I decided to go out on a ride to see if what I did worked (it purrs now) - only barely noticing the slightly more audible cam noise. The bike has had a somewhat noticeable clicking cam sound since I bought it so I didn't think much of it at the time. Then about 50 feet from my garage I smoothly let out the clutch from a slow corner when I was abruptly greeted with a very loud hammering sound from the cam/valvetrain. I immediately shut off the bike and coasted to the garage. Anybody got any tips where I should start? |
Gmaan03
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2012 - 06:35 pm: |
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My bike did that found out it was a seized rear piston. |
Dannybuell
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2012 - 09:16 pm: |
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oil pump and drive gear? |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Thursday, April 05, 2012 - 11:48 pm: |
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Oil pump drive gears are a known weakness so you should look at that anyway. (Take off the oil pump from below and try to look up inside.) Following that, maybe take off the rockerbox tops and see what its all doing. (If the problem is pistons, the rockers have to come off anyway.) |
Alfau
| Posted on Friday, April 06, 2012 - 01:57 am: |
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Don't run the engine whatever you do.If it is the oil pump drive gear,metal will travel through your motor with the oil. It is easy to drain the oil tank and then check the drive gear.The gear on the oil pump itself should be ok. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/214053.html?1153162980 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/129393.html (Message edited by alfau on April 06, 2012) |
Mcelhaney14
| Posted on Friday, April 06, 2012 - 03:35 am: |
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Was it running rough with the hammering noise? Could be starting to suck a valve if it were. Hammering noise could be slack created from a bent valve not fully seating in the head. |
Wolk625
| Posted on Friday, April 06, 2012 - 12:02 pm: |
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ouch. yeah i did notice for the few seconds it was doing it the engine got really "fluttery". Poking around the site it certainly looks like the oil pump drive gear had a lot to do w it.. I'll post pics of what i find as soon as i can get my hands dirty. |
Wolk625
| Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 12:49 am: |
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So I opened up the gear case earlier to find that nothing looked out of the norm - no shredded parts, shrapnel, strange wear marks, nothing.. Took the rocker cover off the rear cyl to see if anything was up in there and still didn't see anything "obviously wrong".. When I get a chance to dive into it again I think I'll try lookin in the primary case.? |
Jim2
| Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 04:00 am: |
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Take the header off and look in. You can see the back side of the exhaust valves. Take the intake manifold out and you can see the back side of the intake valves. Take the spark plugs out and make sure they are still in one piece. Don't know if this will help but it might. If there was anything wrong in the primary I think you would have felt it through the foot pegs. |
Alfau
| Posted on Saturday, April 07, 2012 - 09:53 pm: |
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Go slow,FOLLOW THE MANUAL.You could cause even more problems using incorrect procedure, you could even kill yourself with flying clutch spring. While it is possible to just pull the cam cover off to have a look,you should definitely not do that.It's easy to damage the cam bushing. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 12:44 am: |
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One thing you might try. Get an oil filter and a change of oil handy. Get a can of Seafoam and dump about 1/2 into the oil that's already in the bike. Start it up and let it run for a couple of min. No need to rev it too much. The SF MAY breakup what ever slug you have in your lifter. I used this method on a neighbors car. When he pulled it into my drive way it was clattering REALLY loud. It sounded really bad. We had nothing to lose. Dumped in a full can as the motor idled within 30 seconds the clattering stopped and the motor sounded better than ever. He drove the car for about 50 miles and changed the oil. No problems since, that was 3 years ago. There was 4 of us standing around with our jaws hanging open. I'd never seen or heard anything like that. Never know, it might work for you if it's a clogged lifter. It's worth a shot, it beats opening up the motor. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 07:40 am: |
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Are you sure it's not primary chain noise? Could have lost the tensioner shoe... And please, get a shop manual. Reading that you removed the cam cover and THEN the rockerbox, makes me cringe. Cams need to be unloaded from valvespring tension (i.e. remove pushrods) before you remove half their support (i.e. cam cover). Now, any spring pressure on the pushrods is being transmitted into the cam, and making it sit crooked in its bushing. |
Wolk625
| Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 10:06 am: |
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Yep. Done everything to manual procedure so far. I'll have to remove the primary cover to replace a leaky seal anyways.. Open thinking here: while I got it apart is it worth it to replace some oil hoses while I'm at it? |
Wolk625
| Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 10:18 am: |
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Ratbuell, I did do the rockerbox first - just re-read my post and didn't realize the way I wrote it made it sound that way.. lol sorry. I actually did find a broken tensioner shoe the first time I opened the primary right after I bought the bike. Hopefully this afternoon I'll have some more time to commit to it. |
Kalali
| Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 04:06 pm: |
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The original note said there was a clicking cam sound (which I translate to clicking lifters) since you got the bike and then all of a sudden it turned into a "hammering" sound. Sounds awfully close to symptoms of a dropped valve/push rod. Just a guess of course. |
Psykick_machanik
| Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2012 - 01:49 am: |
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first thought was stuck lifters. |
Thejosh
| Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2012 - 11:35 pm: |
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Had that sound after I got my X1 back together (had to drill out some exhaust studs). I shut it down after a few seconds, put some Marvel Mystery Oil in it and the sound went away, stuck lifter. |
Alfau
| Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2012 - 06:47 am: |
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Thejosh Did you put Marvel Mystery Oil in the fuel tank or in the oil? I Googled Marvel Mystery Oil and there are two types, one for fuel and one for air tools. ADDED TO GAS OR DIESEL: Marvel Mystery Oil® lubricates the entire fuel system-fuel pumps, fuel injectors or carburetors and the top-portion of the cylinders. These are areas, that by design, motor oil does not reach. Using Marvel Mystery Oil® in your fuel extends the life of these vital components by providing them with lubrication that fuel alone does not provide. Marvel® Air Tool Oil prevents rust formation in air tools while providing positive lubrication for smoother starting, longer lasting tools. Marvel Air Tool Oil assures the maximum performance of your tools by dissolving gum and sludge that reduce tools speed and power. Product Benefits •Great for dressing engine compartments and protecting rubber hoses. I copied and pasted this from Here. http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/pro ducts/ |
Alfau
| Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2012 - 07:00 am: |
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Thejosh I found the answer in the often asked question section. sorry. ADDING MARVEL MYSTERY OIL® TO ENGINE OIL How much MMO do I add to the crankcase? Marvel recommends replacing between 10 and 25 percent of your motor oil with MMO. For example, if the crankcase capacity is 5-quarts, add 4 quarts of your favorite motor oil and one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. If you get your oil changed at a “quick-lube” facility, bring a quart of Marvel with you and ask them to add it to your engine in lieu of one quart of traditional motor oil. Can MMO be used with synthetic motor oils? Yes, MMO is compatible with synthetic, semi-synthetic blends and regular types of motor oils. Can I use MMO to replace all of my regular engine oil? No, you cannot use MMO to replace all the oil in the crankcase. The maximum amount of MMO to be used is 25% of crankcase capacity. |
Thejosh
| Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2012 - 08:28 am: |
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I only added about 2 oz. When I replaced the oil pump in my '65 Marlin an old mechanic friend suggested supplementing a quart of oil with MMO in order to get the lifters conditioned. It worked quite well because it freed up all the sticky lifters. Josh |
Wolk625
| Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 08:33 pm: |
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okay late follow-up: scoured for a week or two to find Marvel Mystery Oil and every place was either out or didn't carry it.. so i opted for seafoam. After adding a little bit the sound went away in about 30 seconds of running so i'll assume it was a stuck lifter. I put ~10-12 more miles on it then changed out the oil/seafoam for amsoil - runs smooth and quiet now. Thanks guys! |
Mcelhaney14
| Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 10:00 pm: |
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Awesome! Glad you got it fixed. |
Thejosh
| Posted on Wednesday, April 25, 2012 - 10:46 pm: |
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Seafoam is great too! Although seafoam smells like a solvent and MMO smells like wintergreen, MMO is cheaper too, though both are equally effective! Awesome glad to hear it was a stuck lifter!! |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Friday, April 27, 2012 - 10:00 am: |
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That stuff is sometimes Miracle Juice. Like I said above, it's bailed me out more than a couple of times now. Glad it worked out of you too. |