| Author | Message | ||
     Sanchez |
The pad pin plug isn't cooperating with me. Before I screw it up beyond repair, does anyone have any tips?   | ||
| Texastechx1 |
get the proper sized screw driver for starters. And when you put it back on, 'hand snug' is the torque spec. lol. | ||
| Buellistic |
AND ANTI-SIZE COMPOUND !!! | ||
| Eshardball |
Hand impact to break it loose and then get a new one | ||
| Texastechx1 |
^^^ what they said as well ^^^ 1. get the proper sized screw driver and remove the old one. 2. get a new pin and install it back in after the pad swap with some anti-seize (its a steel pin in an alum caliper) to a snug tightness, it doesn't need a whole lot. | ||
| Sanchez |
Thanks, guys. I soaked it in penetrating spray for a couple of hours then gave it a couple of good whacks with the hand impact, and it popped right off. Then I spent another 10 minutes fiddling around trying to get the angle on the caliper right to slide it past the rotor without chipping the rim.  | ||
| Ratbuell |
1. put blue painters tape on the rim to help fight scratching. 2. spin the rim around until you find the 'loose' spot. They all have a place where the caliper comes out easier. Don't ask me why. Oh...and put the blue painters tape in the spot where it's easy to get the caliper out  3. pop the master cylinder lid loose (but leave it in place to keep dirt out), and wedge the caliper crooked/diagonally against the rotor to compress the pistons back into the caliper. That'll give you a little more leeway for rubiks-cubing the caliper out of the rim. 4. don't be afraid to grind a little. You'll see a lot of calipers (my S2's and S1W's included) that have some grinding/rounded corners on the inside edges to help clear that wheel. You think the Nissin is hard? Try wedging a PM out!! (Message edited by ratbuell on May 15, 2010) | ||
| Texastechx1 |
ya, getting that caliper off without nickin the wheel is a bitch!  |
