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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through June 15, 2009 » Brakes on my O1' x1, need some advice « Previous Next »

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Tsm81xtreme
Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 02:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This may be a simple/stupid question but I would appriciate some input. I was wondering what is the easiest/best way to change both the front and rear brake fluid. How do I get all the old fluid out. Do I just kinda bleed it out or what. Any input would be great. Thanks alot, Matt Tully
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Sloppy
Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 06:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use a turkey baster to suck out most of the old fluid from the master cylinder.

Then just bleed it out until you have clear brake fluid out the caliper. That way you don't have to worry about getting air the brakes.

The smaller "one pint" brake fluid container typically does one brake (front or rear).
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Tsm81xtreme
Posted on Saturday, June 13, 2009 - 08:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you very much sloppy, thats a good idea with the turkey baster. Thanks alot, Matthew Tully
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Ducxl
Posted on Sunday, June 14, 2009 - 05:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Go to your local autoparts store and ask for a Mity-Vac kit


What a fun cool tool to own.The cheapie here is like $30. the professional metal frame one is over $75.

Makes brake bleeding F-U-N!!
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 04:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got the cheap one and can't get the fittings to seal, so I always get bubbles with vacuum in the lines. Maybe the metal one is better, have tried using small zip ties on the hose fittings but hasn't worked yet.

Maybe I'm the only one who's had this problem? Otherwise I think it's pretty cool, I'm just never sure I've bled out the brakes properly...
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Guell
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 06:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ive had the same problems as littlebuggles. It worked fine on my old sportscar, but on my buell i couldnt ever get it to work, i just reverse bleed, quick and simple.
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Oldog
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i just reverse bleed, quick and simple.

how do you do that? }
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Guell
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 10:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I use a syringe with a rubber tube attached to it. Hook it up to the bleeder nipple on the caliper, open up cap on the master cylinder, and then use the syringe to force fluid through the caliper and up into the master cylinder.

I can do it in under 5 minutes now. Easiest way for me on my cyclone.
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Sloppy
Posted on Monday, June 15, 2009 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Some have had success with the reverse bleed method but for me it was a PITA and I don't recommend it. The standard bleeding method takes a bit longer but it works much better for me.

Of course in this case he's not purging air, but simply replacing fluid.

Mityvacs, although handy, are over rated (in my opinion) for brake bleeding. Great for other jobs but not for bleeding.
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