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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2008 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi I need to borrow the tool that locks the front sprocket for installing the locking nut
I am trying to sort the bike for march badness so I have just over a week to get it done..
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Buelltours
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2008 - 02:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There is a way without tool and blocking the engine by unscrewing spark plug, turning the engine correctly, fill in oil (150ml) and block the engine like that. I have the exact procedure in german only... if you are interested I will translate...
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2008 - 02:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Primary, or belt?

I've heard of using a block of wood if you don't have the specialty primary tool, it won't damage the teeth or chain...but be sure to get any/all fibers out before buttoning up the primary.

For the belt, I've actually wrapped a floorjack handle in shop rags and slid it thru the swingarm and wheel, and used the wheel spoke against the handle to hold the belt drive in place to lock down the front belt pulley.

Both are a little "Rube Goldberg"...but they work if you don't have the special tool : )
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Wile_ecoyote
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2008 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Rube Goldberg" is a hero of mine. He is a super genius!!
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Djkaplan
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2008 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I never tried it on a Buell, but any time I needed to torque the countershaft nut, I'd put the bike in top gear and apply the rear brake (get someone else to do it) to keep it from spinning. I can't see how this could hurt anything in the transmission, but if it can, someone speak up!

Of course, if the engine is out of the bike, you can't do this.
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Oldog
Posted on Sunday, March 16, 2008 - 11:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Engine is in the bike

Final Drive..

no half measures! the final drive has not been right since the new belt, I have the front sprocket, and belt (new) Expecting the rear sprocket this week

Dj your'e suggesting re assemble and set up the final drive lock the brake and tighten against it ...

hummm I guess I could use a piece of the old belt for a locking tool, 125$ from DS
for one that fits similar

Locking the engine hydraulicly has to be bad for the rod and main bearings.

$ damage is almost 500$ add the big socket and an adaptor I was hoping that some one had the tool.
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Buellsrule
Posted on Monday, March 17, 2008 - 12:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've done this many times. 1 7/8 socket from Carquest/NAPA (13.00). Bike in gear (if need be, roll the bike into a post or a wall), I stand on the rear brake with my right foot and use the torque wrench to lock down the nut(remember, there left handed threads--counterclockwise to tighten). It's easy and quick and it works. No special tool needed. I've used the special tool and it works no better than the technique I just described. Questions? BR.
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