| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Pete, What Mike said only more emphatically... Do NOT ride around at engine speeds below 2,500 rpm. And then only if cruising gently. If you want to accelerate, keep the revs above 2,800 rpm. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Ditto what Blake said. These motors don't like lugging. I should have clairified that. I was talking about maintining speed like in a moderate traffic jam.... | ||
| Mikej |
... or like getting home late at night running up the alley not wanting to wake the neighbors ... | ||
| Blake |
I like waking up my neighbors.  | ||
| Pete_o |
All, Thanks for the replies, I'm kind of surprised I didn't get a chorus of "first, get rid of the power commander..." Also didn't realize the motor wouldn't be too happy under 3k rpm. I'll change my riding habits and stay out of parades. I adjusted the primary to 3/8 from a loose 1/2, also cranked up the rich buttons on the power commander. When running at higher engine speeds the jerkiness is less pronounced, but still there. No pops out the the intake. Any chance having the TPS reset would help? Pete | ||
| Blake |
Ooo, I hope you made darn good and sure that your primary chain was at its absolute tightest point in its travel when you set it to only 3/8". Leaving it at 1/2" would be fine. It gets tighter as the aluminum engine/tranny heat up and expand. If the bike accelerates good and hard but doesn't like to cruise then yes a TPS reset MAY help. A check of the cam position sensor may also be in order. Best thing to do is find a good Power Commander tech with a dyno and have it tuned proper. It will be well worth it. Let us know what you find that solves the problem. | ||
| Loki |
okay here we go..... I think we are stepping into new territory here. XB heads, S1 cams, race header, open old style Suppertrapp, 40 CV carb. hints, suggestions, otherwise on the carb set-up. Is going from the open Hemi style heads to the bath-tub XB going to make a big difference. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I heard somebody discussing high performance O2 sensors, which they basically indicated respond quicker to changes. Anyone know how this would effect the XB models? What aspects of performance would it improve? | ||
| Crashm1 |
I've been reading here and other boards that the one of the restrictions for X1's getting over 100 hp is the throttle body. Will an XB throttle body fit? It looks pretty similar as far as I can tell from bad ebay photos. Has anyone tried the MAD or RSR's systems? It looks like RSR is using an open loop system and both are using MAP sensors which makes a fair bit of sense to me. Any others out there I haven't seen? | ||
| Burrpenick |
old question, but...... please help. My 02 Cyclone has a forcewinder and V&H muffler, previous owner rejetted w/the Keihin kit, changed the needleto the nokh, 190 main, and 45 slow jet. he used the larger ones at first but said it fouled the plugs. He was in St Louis, I am in N. Florida, it is bucking/coughing some at just about idle and lower throttle openings, runs fine at top. DOES THIS SOUND LIKE A LEAN LOW SPEED JET. I HAVE a 42 & 48 to use and also a 195 and 200 main. I was considering just uping the slo jet to the 48, thinking that affects the low end where I see and feel the problem. The bike also backfires more than I feel it shoud. Can I change this with the carb on? Thanks, George in Tallahassee PLEASE RESPOND TO PENICK@NETTALLY.COM  | ||
| Steve_mackay |
That's EXACTLY what my bike did when I got it. Switched to the 48(from the stock 42), and totally changed the character. Driveability all around has been perfect ever since. Never a cough out the carb after the jet was installed. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Aaron also found that some of the newer forcewinders have a small slot cut for one of the carb venting holes instead of a large bowl like they used to. This causes all sorts of crappy running, and the solution is to grind the slot back out into the bowl it should have been in the first place. Lots of information about this (with pictures) in the knowledge vault. I got good running with a 45 slow jet, stock needle, and the 200 main that was in there from the factory, and 2.5 turns out on the air mixture screw. This was an M2 with a forcewinder and a supertrapp. Great looking Cyclone! | ||
| Reepicheep |
Picture of good and bad one. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/11837.jpg | ||
| Bmcdjw |
I need some help.... How do i clear the ecm of fault codes, (99 x1) I can read then with the jumper lead but how do you clear them. Thanks | ||
| S3thunder |
I have read most of the posts on cv40 and searched the knowledge vault for what might cause a flat spot at WOT @3500 in 5th. I modified my Force intake as suggested in KV so that the small slot into the intake is now large. Today, when I went to pass a car and opened up at 70 in 5th all I got was a huge flat spot for a couple of seconds and then the power kicked in and off I went. I tried this again later on empty road and found that flat again. I don't notice this as much in 4th at similar rpm. I am running a Force intake, N4 cams, and a Two Brothers exhaust off a 2.5 header. This is the Thunderstorm engine, 98. The cv40 has a 45 pilot, 200 main, and mixture is set at 2.5 turns. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Why does the recommended set up for tuning say to use a 195 main? Thanks | ||
| Shotgun |
I had the same problem on my M2 til I put in a new accelerator pump diaphram. The original one was pinched and not functioning correctly. After popping in the new one, the bike wanted to wheelie off the line. | ||
| Captainkirk  |
S3; My advice remains the same: Shitcan the CV40 for the Mikuni HSR42-11. However, if you can't right now, or for some reason don't want to, do the Thunderslide kit on the CV. It made a huge difference from stock in both accelleration and throttle response. Not as good as the Mikuni, mind you. Smart money says a couple hundred for a carb v. over a hundred for a kit is an easy decision, but I'll leave that to you. | ||
| Robr |
I too had a flat spot with my cv40 during WOT. I am running 45 pilot and 200 main and a dynojet needle. I tried raising the needle and lowering the needle, also I tried the 195 main and the bike began to ping, so I went back to the 200. As a last resort I advanced the timing slightly and that did the trick. Rob | ||
| Captainkirk |
Robr; how "slightly"? | ||
| Robr |
I have the Screamin Eagle adjustable curve ignition module. I changed from curve 3 to curve 2, which advances about 2.5 degrees sooner according to the graph provided with the unit. I beleive the same effect could be acheived by turning the cam position sensor plate. I would experiment one line at a time to see if the flat spot goes away. Rob | ||
| Captainkirk |
Well, I made the flat spot go away just by pulling out the choke (enrichener)some, so I know I have a lean condition to fix first. Then maybe I'll play with the timing. It snowed tonight (sob!) so it may have to wait a while. (Two inches of snow and the morons are dumping salt all over the streets for the girly drivers)  ARRGGGGGHHHHH! | ||
| Nitsebes  |
venturis aluminium billet   | ||
| 99x1  |
I always assumed the low fuel level sensor on FI bikes was some kind of float switch, but it is actually a NTC thermistor - the current through the lamp warms the thermistor if it is in air (submersed in gas it doesn't warm up), lowers it's resistance, and turns the lamp on. This makes replacement of the lamp with the exact same type important. This is also why the lamp starts to glow slightly before it comes on, it takes 2-3 minutes for it to warm up. The two I've tested measure ~1K ohm at room temperature, 1.8K ohms in ice water, and about 200 ohms in hot tap water. There is a pdf file at Level Sensor with further info... | ||
| Italialaw |
Anyone running a Mikuni on their Buell and live in the Midwest. I live near Cleveland, Ohio and would be interested in how your Mikunis are tuned (slow and fast jet size, etc.) Thanks! | ||
| Captainkirk |
Italia, Yes, I am running a Mikuni on my Buell. Right now it's bone-stock-out-of-the-box with a 25 pilot and a 160 main. The pilot is way too lean and I'll be going up to a 30 and trying that on for size. What sucks is that it's cold out and I probably won't be able to tell you how it works 'til spring. Bear in mind I'm running the race kit with N8 cams. If your bike is stock (your profile doesn't show any mods?) the stock HSR42-11 kit will probably work OK. | ||
| Marks3tbillet  |
Sometimes when riding my S3T at steady speed for over a mile or so, it hiccups or misses. Anyone have any ideas? I think it's only happening after the bike is warmed up well. Thanks for any help. | ||
| Steve_mackay  |
Well, if this is something new, I'd look at replacing the intake gaskets. If it's always done that, I'd still look at intake gaskets, but suspect you may need a larger "slow" jet. | ||
| Kinger  |
Mark, My '00 S3T does the same thing. It usually happens to me when cruising at about 80 mph for extended periods of time. My buddies '98 does the same thing. Not sure what the cause is, but I can not always duplicate it to figure out the conditions that it happens at. Steve, a larger "slow" jet won't help Mark. His bike (per his profile) is a 2000, therefore fuel injected.  | ||
| Steve_mackay |
Woops.  | ||
| Kdkerr2 |
I was not able to learn whether or not the fuel injected tube frame Buells used a crankshaft positioning sensor like the big twin H-D's [and the new Buells] or were timed off the Hall effect sensor on the right side of the crankcase. KK |
