| Author | Message | ||
     Shotgun |
What do the spark plugs tell you? 165 main is smaller than most, 190-200 being pretty common. Stock needle? | ||
| Henrik |
Pete; if you put the seals in dry, it can be tricky to get everything assembled without wrinkling the seals. So I usually use some sort of lubricant - denatured alcohol works well and shouldn't damage the rubber. As for anti seize or loctite - check the Service Manual. It'll often have instructions for what to use. Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
Pete -- like Henrik sez -- except in bigger letters -- anti-seize it great stuff, no doubt, but there are many places it doesn't belong -- same same loctite . . . . you're removing fasteners that may have been last touched when the bike was assembled close to five years ago -- add in the temperature cycling/riding in the rain/ washing from time to time and the like, havine the fasteners come out with a little effort is normal -- if some of them are really goobered (white corrosion evident on the bolts when removed), run a tap into the hole to clean it, and a die on the bolt, also to clean off the threads . . . . steel into aluminum is common, and nothing wrong with it, but it's likely to gall and corrode after a time -- the service manual is very specific about where to put never-seize and loctite -- it's a very good example of a service manual -- the tech writers clearly either spun wrenches themsleves, had a lot of input from techs, or both after decades of spinmning wrenches on old cars, taking apart a vehicle manufactured in this century is a joy, believe me! | ||
| Mikej |
Carb and fuel delivery, okay this is the correct section. Symptoms: M2 running bad like it's starving for gas or has an intake leak. Can keep it running with the throttle if kept above 3500-4000rpms on the freeway and keep working the throttle. Tests: Warmed the bike up last night and sprayed it down with WD40 around the intake region while locking the throttle at around 2,000rpm. No change in throttle response or rpm's while spraying. Conclusion is no intake leak. Test2: Rode bike to the bike shop last night. Ran fine until about 18 miles down the freeway then started acting up again. Thinking something I put it on reserve and it started running better. Got to the bike shop and parked it for a few hours while inside for a meeting. Note: there is plenty of gas in the tank. Test3: Started the bike up for the ride home, ran fine with the petcock on the regular position. Ran fine until about 15 miles into the freeway ride home then started acting up again. Flipped to reserve and it smoothed out, flipped back to the run position and it started acting up again, flipped back to reserve and it ran fine. Conclusions: There is something funny about the petcock or filter screen inside the tank that causes it to act up after 15-30 minutes of riding, either from sloshing around or from heat buildup. I'll be draining the tank and removing the petcock to see what I can see. I may shine a flashlight into the tank once I have it more drained as there is still well over 3 gallons of gas in the tank. Pretty sure the vent tube isn't pinched since putting it on reserve solves the symptoms. I may just switch to a Pingel higher flow petcock, but I've got a few spare bubbly-paint tanks I can salvage a petcock off of for testing purposes. There was someone else, or several someone elses, who might be having potential intake leak issues who may be well advised to check their petcocks for similar symptoms. I'll let you all know what I find if and when I find something. It's much more fun to ride a bike that runs well than it is to try and ride one what doesn't run so well. Funny how that works. | ||
| Fpatton |
MikeJ - I just finished dealing with what sounds like the same problem. Very intermittent, but annoying when it happened. I fixed mine by putting in the Pingel fuel valve. No problems since then. The stock part just dribbles fuel out, and is very flimsy. I can highly recommend the Pingel. Fred | ||
| Racer66 |
Im installing a carb on a 1999 S3 FI) Does the fuel pump overwelm the float or is it ok? what about the computer and check engine light when the FIs are disconnected? | ||
| Bluelightning |
Racer66, Yes the fuel pump will massively overwhelm the float bowl. I removed my pump and fabricated up 2 plates (1 inside and 1 outside) of the tank made of aluminum, drilled and tapped the plates with a piece of rubber gasket material (make sure it is the type that won't break down under oil and gassy conditions) and welded a petcock flange to it (from Pingel) as well used a Pingel Petcock. You can then ditch all of the FI sensors and the ecm. The check engine light and the fuel light will no longer work, though. I have heard of people keeping the fuel pump housing and just removing the pump body, allowing fuel to freely flow down into the opening for the petcock, you'd have to make up some type of an adapter to connect this to a petcock, or use an inline petcock, then you could keep your low fuel light. | ||
| Mikej |
I might have found the problem with the petcock on the M2 over the weekend. I drained the tank and pulled the petcock. The main tube looks like it might have migrated up some and might have been constricted near the top of the filter screen tube. Got just enough fuel to keep sort of running. So I chopped off about an inch of tube that I'd been meaning to do for some time now anyway and put it all back together. Will know tomorrow if it fixed the problem or not. Just wanted to follow up on the problem. MikeJ. | ||
| Icee |
I'm new to this forum. Found this while searching for information on cam specs for Buells. I'm no master mechanic so I thought I would try to pick your brains. I recently bought a 98 S1 lightning. I replaced thr intake seals because it was popping through the carb at all speeds. I replaced the rocker gaskets because they leaked. Now the question is why does it backfire through the exhaust on deceleration? I'm getting conflicting info. Is this a lean or rich condition? The plugs appear dry black in color center electrode is white though (at least on the front cylinder). It runs a forcewinder intake Americansportbike race exhaust system(I think) 48 slow jet about 2 turns out on idle screw Dyno jet kit 195 jet c clip set at 4th ring down from top no shims. Any insight would be helpful. Thanx. | ||
| Ocbueller |
Icee, Still sounds like an intake leak. Double check your work. SteveH | ||
| Shotgun |
Icee, you mite try backing out the idle screw another turn and run it. Sometimes a leanness at closed throttle can be cured by simply fooling with that. The 48 idle jet is bigger than most use and the rest of your carb setup is not lean. If not that nor intake, check exhaust gaskets. Congrats on buying a great bike. | ||
| Icee |
Shotgun thanks for the input. I guess you are saying this is caused by a lean condition when closing the throttle and not a rich condition. Ocbueller I can recheck my work but to clarify the popping through the carburetor doesn't happen anymore. It used to pop all the time going down the highway at 60 mph or riding at 25 mph. now I'm just trying to fix the backfiring at throttle shut down. it will sometime backfire on startup if it is hot too. I would think excess gas unburned in the exhaust. I forgot to mention before it has a screaming eagle ignition module. | ||
| Henrik |
I've had exhaust leaks every time I've had popping through the exhaust (unless you're jetted lean). The leaks have been exhaust gaskets a couple of times and a cracked header once. Henrik | ||
| Icee |
Henrik thanx. The exhaust system I am running now I recently got from a friend that has a white lightning. I changed the exhaust gaskets when I changed out the header and muffler set. The old exhaust system (which was not stock) was backfiring too on decel. So again I can recheck my work there but it is probably not that. thanx. | ||
| Lowelltroll |
I'm running down the road yesterday and the beast starts dieing like it's out of gas, switch to reserve(less than 100 mi on tripmeter) end up on shoulder. Click into neutral, fires back up and away I go. Petcock problem? | ||
| Chopperboy |
PROBLEM - My '02 S3T started running extremely rich yesterday. The ETS was recently changed to the updated version. Will this sensor fail within several hundred miles?? The code indicated this. I replaced the plugs and they were black within a few minutes of running. The bike will not accept WOT. Runs extremely rough. Thanks for any input. Todd | ||
| 99x1 |
The ETS is a NTC thermistor (negative temperature coefficient thermal resistor) that changes from about 40-50 K ohms at room temperature to almost zero when the engine overheats. Sounds like yours is open, has high resistance or has shifted values, and the ECM thinks the engine is cold? Check it with a meter - in ice water it should read about 135K, in boiling water about 3K ohms. The ETS on my '99 is a glass thermistor with one end welded in a small hole on the underside, and the other end connected to the wire secured with some kind of epoxy. Kinda fragile - easily broke if the wire is pulled on (from personal experience)  | ||
| Chopperboy |
99x1, Thanks for your input. I will be measuring the resistive values of the ETS later today and will post my results. I will be a little suprised if the ETS is in fact bad as it took almost 7K for the stock ETS to deteriate enough to cause driveability issues and to cause the bike to run a little on the rich side. Basically, the changes were symptoms were slow to appear and took months to throw a code. In my current situation, the bike displayed the symptoms rather quickly, while cruising at 75 mph. As stated in my previous post, the ETS was replaced only several hundred miles ago. Thanks. | ||
| Chopperboy |
UPDATE - I measured the resistive values of the ETS and found them to be within spec. I double checked the ETS connection and added a small amount of dielectric to hopefully avoid intermitancy. I fired the S3 up and took it for a quick ride. Symptoms were still present, if not a little less severe. I then replaced the plugs and took another ride. The symptoms cleared up after several miles. The S3 appears to be running normally. I plan to get another ETS for a spare, just in the case the symtoms reappear. Also plan on having the codes removed with a scanalyzer. I am a little concerned about resetting the TPS as my local shop is incompetent. Thanks. Todd | ||
| Brewster |
Hey, Blue Lightning, do you have to replace the ignition system when you remove the fuel injection? Brewster | ||
| Bluelightning |
Yes, the stock ecm will no longer work. I am running the Crane HI-4 ignition in my X-1 with the Crane coil. It is really easy to wire up, To make things a bit easier, I split my stock wiring harness open and removed all of the non-used sensor wires. Send me an e-mail if you have any other questions or need help getting it going. | ||
| Crazyeraser |
hi, i was wondering oboth geting a NOS Sneeky Pete Kit to my X1-01 . have sombody set op a bike w NOS? and can the fuelinjektion on the bike be a problem? | ||
| Captainkirk |
Crazy, Check the knowledge vault. I believe there are quite a few posts regarding NOS.  | ||
| Crazyeraser |
Captainkirk, Tx, i have look true all! post on : (MORE POWER!!! (Nitrous, Big Bore, Turbo, ... and other radical stuf...) , now and have not seen a singel bike that have Fuel-Injection with nitro .. looks like many wont to get it doo. | ||
| Medic |
Has anyone used a generic heated O2 sensor in place of the High Performance O2 sensor for the Power Commander? If so, what kind of connector did you use to mate it to the PCIII? I have a heated Bosch sensor that will work in the old 3.8 liter T-bird, but it doesn't have a connector. | ||
| Pete_o |
I'm making progress in getting my 2000 S3 running just right. With Badweb help I replaced the intake manifolds seals, this fixed an erratic idle problem. I'm still experiencing real jerky performance at low speeds, about 2000 rpm, 25 mph. Feels like hesitations every few seconds. Full throttle feels good, although I still feel slight hesitations at cruising speeds. And, By The Way, the previous owner put a Power Commander on it with the heated O2 sensor. I'd take it off but he wrapped the wire bundles with so much electrical tape it would take me days to cut through it. I zeroed out the map and screwed with the mixture buttons, didn't make any difference. ECM flashed codes for front and rear injectors and O2 sensor, not sure if this is due to PC or a real problem with O2 sensor. Only mods are a V&H pipe and a Forcewinder. Thanks for any advice, Pete | ||
| Henrik |
Jerky at low RPM could be a sign that it's a bit lean. Typical for the carbed bikes with the stock pilot jet. Does pop/backfire through the aircleaner when it jerks? Henrik | ||
| Mikej |
2000rpm is a bit low for smooth running. My M2 does not like to run below 2500 smoothly, the S2 does better at lower rpm due to the heavier flywheels and milder cams. 25mph is right between lugging the M2 in 2nd gear and annoying the neighborhood in 1st gear, either 20mph in 1st or 30mph in 2nd works much better. See how the bike does holding it steady at 3,000rpm. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Mike, My M2 used to run pretty smooth from about 1700-1800 on up until I replace the stock carb with a Mikuni HSR42. I now have a bit of surging. I know it's a tuning issue, just need to get it sorted. It's a bit lean across the entire throttle range. Doesn't the S2 and M2 have the same stock sportster cam grind? That was my understanding anyway. However, the heaver flywheels make a big difference in the smoothness at low RPM's. I barely have to crack the throttle on the S2 when pulling away from a stop. The M2 requires a bit more RPM to pull away smoothly. Pete, you may also want to check your primary chain tension. If it's loose, it can cause low RPM's to feel jerky. Brad | ||
| Mikej |
Not positive on the cams, thought they were different grinds for some reason, maybe not. My M2 doesn't like life below 2500 much. Doesn't run real bad down low, just fairly obvious it doesn't like it down in that range. Who knows, maybe I need a tune up and timing set as well. |
