| Author | Message | ||
     Kevinhern |
Thanks Blake. I just had my first bad sensor replaced under warranty on my '02 M2. I hope the new and improved one will last a while. | ||
| Blake |
Kevin: Did you check to ensure the replacement was indeed the new part number? If you didn't, I'm sad to say that it probably isn't. Elvisroy: Good for you. No matter the accuracy of a brain speedo versus a 20 mph headwind or a 20 mph tailwind, an odometer sure comes in handy. | ||
| Bullitt |
I called the Buell store with the new part # and they said it doesn't exist. Taking this with a grain of salt I figured I'd call Sport Twin after the holidays. Figuring I have less than 3 mos of life left in my current sensor I followed Bill and Neil's instructions to try and keep it alive until I can lay my hands on the new one. This board is an invaluable resource for Buellers. Thanks to all of you for your help! Kevin | ||
| Satx |
I had an '00 FXDX that would give me false readings now and then.Sometimes 20 miles off,sometimes 40.It would do it until I turned the key off and then go back to normal when I started it back up.Does this sound like the behavior I should expect from my new Buell before the sensor goes out or will it just go completely?The couple of times I tried getting my local dealer to look into it all they would do is tell me that it needs to be doing it while they have it.One of many issues that never got addressed.It's not just on Buells.Sure like my new Buell I bought at Austin Buell/h-d. Thanks,Jeff.I'm lovin' it! Bill | ||
| Reepicheep |
both of my failing units worked perfectly, then went all at once. Metering at least one of the units showed a blown internal part (traced it and checked it all the way to the hall effect sensor IC via a dremel tool and a LOT of patience). I bet your fix will be permanent... | ||
| Bullitt |
Same for me every time too. No warning, just *poof*. Bill, I hope so. Thanks to you especially for taking the time to figure this one out. Kevin | ||
| Kevinhern |
Mine too, speedo just went dead. Just read a small question an answer section in Febuary issue of American Iron about speedos that read half the actuall speed. The tech from AI suggested the standard fix of taking the sensor out and cleaning the metal shavings off. | ||
| Satx |
My sensor read 20 and 40 above what I was traveling at and only did it once in a while. Bullitt,the only thing I figured out was that the M2 I had before my Dyna was twice the fun for half the money and that a bad dealer is a bad dealer regardless of WHAT you ride. Bill | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Actually Satx, sounds like the speedo itself, not the sensor. This is a common symptom on sportsters (whose speedo unit is [supposedly] like other h-d's where the buell unit is a different mfgr.) when the speedo is dying...but has been known to occur on failing sensors. "typically" (if there is such a thing); they seem to just fail...though, YMMV. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Jimmy_B |
My S3 speedo sensor died at 2000mi. Saw the filter idea and installed same (diode/coil) and with the "old P/N" sensor have racked up 3000 more miles with no problem. Seems to be holding up. | ||
| Anonymous |
have any of you heard of something called EMI? if the sensor wiring is routed too close to the ignition harness or too close to the spark plug wires, it can inductively cause a spike and kill the sensor. learned about this from installing an electronic ignition on an old triumph. the unit got its timing from magnetic pickup on the cam. if the wiring from the ignition unit itself was to close to the spark plug wires it would cause the unit get faulty readings...abnormal firing of the spark plugs!! seperate the wires, problem goes away. | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
Speedo sensor wiring goes nowhere near the spark plugs. It's on the back of the tranny, right next to the starter. Plus, I think it's EFI, not EMI...but I'm no EE. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Josh |
Neil, Yes, it runs up the battery to the harness plug-in, then runs in the harness along the frame to the speedometer itself. On my S3 the harness runs pretty far from the sparkleplugs (and coil) but right above the injectors. I thought EMI was bought by Sony? Josh | ||
| Bluzm2 |
EMI = Electro Magnetic Interference EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection ? EMP = Electro Magnetic Pulse If spark plug firing is an issue, it's going to be an EMP induced current that's taking out the sensors. The wires would need to be close and running parallel for a short distance for good magnetic coupling. The equasion for field strength is square root of the distance if memory serves (been a long time since I cracked the old electronic books). Brad | ||
| Blake |
My sensor still kicks in once in a while. It did today when I hit 60 in 2nd gear. I've been waiting for the official fix. Sounds like pinched wimpy wires is the main culprit. Makes sense with the way mine behaves. | ||
| Lsr_Bbs |
EFI, EMP, whatever...I'd doubt that's frying sensors. The wiring from the sensor goes to the ECM. Output from the ecm goes to the speedo. If it's EMP/EFI/Whatever, I'd bet on the speedo or ECM frying first, not the sensor. Voltage spikes and/or shitty construction seem much more likely to me. Neil Garretson X0.5 | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Neil, I have to agree. An engine is an electronically "noisy" environment. Good component/circuit design should take this in account. | ||
| Low_Ufo |
Has anyone had luck with the new speed sensor part #, 74431-01Y. As other have stated in earlier posts, my dealer too hasn't a clue about this part number. Has anyone ordered it and actually received it? Marty T | ||
| Mikej |
A better question might be has anyone had a failure with the new sensor? With some getting less than 5,000 miles per sensor we should be hearing fairly soon if the new ones start blowing/breaking/failing. | ||
| Low_Ufo |
Mike, At least in my part of the country, one cannot obtain a sensor to determine if it is better than the old one because the dealer says there is no such part number!!! My question still stands........Anyone found one of the new ones, and what part number, and dealer, did you use to order it? Thanks. Marty T | ||
| Mikej |
I just checked with Hal's and got similar info. The parts guy couldn't find the new number in his regular system, then went in back and checked the new 2002 X1 parts breakdown and found the new p/n, just no parts in stock yet. I thought the dealer's would have been notified by now. Guess we'll have to wait and see then. Bummer. Maybe see if your local dealer can look in a new 2002 parts book, then order it that way. | ||
| Kevinhern |
I have a 2002 M2 and the sensor failed at 1,500 miles. But, I didn't see the part number on the sensor that failed. The dealer had to order the new sensor and it has a part number of 74431-01 right there on the sensor. So, this is a valid part number. Time will only tell how long it will last. I've put about 700 miles on the new sensor with no problems so far. Has anyone heard what Buell actually changed with this new sensor? | ||
| Mikej |
Based on what someone (maybe an Anonymous posting) said, I'm guessing they played with wire diameters and format. Just a guess though. | ||
| Low_Ufo |
My parts guy did find the part number, without the 'Y' on the end of the number, but the parts book showed it without the plug on the end, just loose wire ends. Kevin, did your dealer have to remove the plug off the old one and put it on the new part? If you get a chance, check with them and see if it came complete or not. Thanks. Marty T | ||
| Kevinhern |
Marty, It looks complete on the bike. I don't see any splices between the sensor and the plug. | ||
| Low_Ufo |
Thanks Kevin. Marty | ||
| Dynodave |
Hmmm, I was riding along on my S1 and the speedo went dead. Had to replace the Speedo Cable. Damn thing only lasted 50,000 miles. Have to remember to LUBRICATE IT once in a while...Did I mention that this is yet another reason why S1s RULE!?! The nice thing is that my speedo remained accurate when I changed the gearing!!! | ||
| Rick_A |
This is my fix:    It's a Sigma cycle computer and light. Maintenance free...except for replacing batteries(and they last a looong time). | ||
| Reepicheep |
My speedo sensor line filter uses the following parts.. should be able to find them at radio shack. 1) Plain old switching diode. At least 100 volts, 1 amp. Just about any of them should work. Do NOT get a zeener. About $1. Radio Shack part number 276-1104, generic part number 1N4005, but really just about any switching diode you come across would likely be fine.  2) Inductor (also may be called a choke, RF fiter, or coil). The bigger the better, but any thicker then a pencil and any longer then 2 inches would likely be overkill and have vibration problems. It will probably be something like 100uH (micro henrys). About $2. Radio Shack part number 273-102C is one of them, no doubt many others.  Wire as follows:  Bike positive voltage lead (red) ---> diode (white strip end away from bike and towards sensor) ---> coil (either end) ---> red lead to speedo sensor. You have to cut only one wire, the positive lead (the red one). I cut it after the connector, so if it dies I just add that one to the pile of other smoking sensors and the bike is back to stock. Make sure all your connections are soldered, and tightly sealed. Shrink tubing would not hurt, but lots of electrical tape secured by several cable ties would probably last just as well.  Try and strain relieve the connections as much as possible and secure things as well as you can. If that inductor is flopping around, the connections won't be long for this world. An anony posting regarding this subject claimed the failures were a result of people cable tying them too tightly to the frame, breaking the wires. This may be A cause of failures, but it is not THE cause of failures, I know as I disected my original sensor down to the semiconductor. Remember that a soldered joint is generally more brittle then the wire it connects, so give it lots of mechanical support. I wrapped up a few old cut off ends of cable ties along side the connected components to give the whole assembly more strength, strain relief, and support.  This is a first order filter (the inductor) and a diode to prevent reverse voltages. Other theoretically superior solutions exist using shunt style regulators and higher order filters, but could break other things as we don't know the rest of the schematic. This setup is as simple as possible and as safe as can be. I did not want to blow a $200 speedo saving a $50 sensor. Again... I do not know the failure mode of this part... I put a scope on it but could only run it in neutral. Some noise appeared, not much, nothing alarming. This approach completely eliminates one potential failure mode (reverse voltage) and lowers the potential of a second (voltage spikes), and reduces the voltage being supplied to the sensor by .6 volts. But it could be a LOT of other things. I my filtered sensor has gone further then the other two non filtered sensors. My first blew in less then 3000 miles. My second blew within 250 miles of being replaced. This third with the filter has gone from 3250 miles to more then 12000 with no problems. I won't say for sure its fixed, but I will say I don't worry about it anymore. If anyone has any problems tracking down parts, just write down what you can find at your local radio shack that you think may be it and ask. These are pretty simple parts in simple roles, substitutes should be easy to come by. In fact, you could easily find both the choke and the diodes from the average home computer power supply if you have one of those being thrown away. Bill | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Bill, I'll second the anony "tie wrap" comment. My first failure was NOT because of a tie wrap. Did a post mortum on the unit. I had continuity all the way from Deutch connector to sensor on all three wires. I have the parts laying around to do the filter, just haven't gotten around to it yet..... Should really get it done. I've already got about 2500 or so on the latest sensor (number 3). Brad |
