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Buell Forum » XBoard » Buell XBoard Archives » Archive through September 23, 2007 » My Check Engine light is on. Trouble Code 21. I need a tool???? « Previous Next »

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Cityxwanted
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2007 - 10:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

hello all.

I purchased a 2006 Buell XB12Ss about a month ago with 140 miles. Around 930 miles, I noticed the check engine light come on. I was running about 70 down the interstate.

I immediately took the next exit and came to a stop. Then light then proceeded to cut off. It kind of freaked me out, but the bike seemed to be running fine.

So for the next 75 miles, the check engine light would turn on and off sporadically.

I finally made it home and opened up my service manual. I ran the code and it gave me 21 - Active Muffler Control.

So I am going through the troubleshooting diagram on 4-66.

I did the first step and the actuator did not move. Fuse is ok. It then says to "Disconnect 164 from ECM, Key on, ground opposite end of patch cord. Does the actuator cycle?"

So there is a diagnostic note here---"Using TEST CONNECTOR KIT (Part No. HD-41404), attach red probe and patch cord to [164B}"

Does anyone know what this test connector kit is? I have called two dealerships one a buell, and one not, and they both told me it was probably some kind of tool the technician would have available. However the part number does not show up in the database.

Is there anyway to find out what company would sell this tool? Or can I make my own?

Thanks for your help

Justin

Ready to ride again. It is finally coming out of the nineties in Charlotte.
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Tdiddy
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2007 - 10:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Check the fuse.
I forget which one...Its for the horn and the exhaust servo.

I didn't ride my Ss to work tonight so I can't run over to check.
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Sungull
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2007 - 11:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hi;

Have a 07-STT that had the same problem. Turned out to be bare wires shorting out under the seat. Dealer repaired it with no problem. The tool you talk about just bridges two terminals. You can use a bobby pin or a paper clip, I used a female spade connector. Don't be surprised if you loose your trouble code. Mine went before I could get the bike to the Dealer. I had phoned them prior to loosing the code and they found the problem with no trouble. The Dealer is a two hour ferry boat ride from me and treats me very well. They also found a cracked battery pan and that has since been replaced. Hope you have a Dealer that treats you as well.
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Tdiddy
Posted on Tuesday, September 11, 2007 - 11:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I just re-read your post and saw that your fuse was ok.

Sorry
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Cityxwanted
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2007 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks guys.

Sungull, I know the bridge you are talking about. But the service manual talks about something different.

Anyone else know??
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Fl_a1a
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2007 - 09:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I bet you cable is not moving freely causing your problems.

Here's a test to see:
-bike off
-red start switch off
-put the key in and turn on
-open the throttle wide open
-flip the red start switch on
-with the plastic tank cover off the servo will move through the full range...if it not you have your problem.
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Buellinachinashop
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2007 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Never tell a bunch of guys that you need a tool. Somebody like Spiderman may take you up on it.
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Cityxwanted
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2007 - 09:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

FL,

I did that test, and you are right, the servo does not move at all.

However, in the ladder diagram, it tells me to use the TEST CONNECTOR KIT and attach it to the ECM then to ground.

Anyways, if it still doesn't move, the manual says to replace the ecm, if it does move, it goes through a bunch more steps.

If this test connector kit is just a stake on, crimped to a wire that I can ground on the other end, I can do that. I just don't know if that is exactly what the manual is talking about, or if it is something else.

If you look at the ecm, in the picture, there is a single terminal in the middle between the two wiring harnesses. The service manual says to--

"Disconnect 164 from ECM, Key on, ground opposite end of patch cord. Does the actuator cycle?"

So there is a diagnostic note here---"Using TEST CONNECTOR KIT (Part No. HD-41404), attach red probe and patch cord to [164B}"

This single terminal in the middle is 164. Do I just need to hook something to this and then ground it??

THanks

Justin




pics to come
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Cityxwanted
Posted on Wednesday, September 12, 2007 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)



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Ustorque
Posted on Saturday, September 15, 2007 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

not to get off topic but isn't that the elusive "WHITE WIRE MOD"?
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Lost_in_ohio
Posted on Saturday, September 15, 2007 - 09:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

That bike doesn't happen to have a race ecm in it???????
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Starter
Posted on Sunday, September 16, 2007 - 09:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Nah, White Wire mod was with the white wire visible on the grey ECM connector for the early XB9.
If it is throwing a code for the exhaust server he can't have a RaceECM.

Check for continuity of the wire going from the ECM to Exhaust servo with a multimetre and report back.
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Fl_a1a
Posted on Monday, September 17, 2007 - 06:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I don't have the manual so can't offer any insight on that procedure.

But another thought is to isolate the problem further. Is it mechanical or an electrical signal problem.

I would preform the following test:

Mechanical:
1. With the airbox open, remove the servo unit from it tightly packed place and hold it in your hand and do the test again. If it is a mechanical problem you will feel the unit vibrate when it tries to go through the full range of motion.

Electrical:
The horn and the ecm are on the same fuse.
If their is a short to the horn it can cause problems to the ecm.
-The horn still honks--good, no short while stoped.
-Disconnect the horn wire at the fuse box to see if this solves...if so then it is an intermittent short to the horn.


Also, is the fuse burning out regularly. When the red light comes one while riding try honking the horn (but do not do in heavy urban areas for fear of inducing rode rage--or at least look like you are waving to somebody you know).

(Message edited by fl_a1a on September 17, 2007)
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Cityxwanted
Posted on Wednesday, September 19, 2007 - 12:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hi guys, thanks for the help. The acutator motor is bad.

I went through the rest of the service manual procedures as far as checking voltage and continuity at different areas and everything checked out ok.

So I took it to the dealer to confirm before having them order the part. It will be replaced under warranty, and no cost to me!!

Allright!
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