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Socalxb
Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I've only had my 12R for about a month (bought it it used with about 1,300 miles on it) and this is the first problem I've encountered.

When I turn the ignition to "ON" the gauges swing around and the lights come on, but no fuel pump (I'm assuming that what the noise from down below is) and nothing when I hit the starter. The first time it happened I just turned the ignition back off and started over and it fired up fine. Today I tried this several times and got nothing. I pulled off the fuse cover, checked the fuses were good and tight and sure enough it came to life and started fine. When I stopped for gas I kept the ignition on and when it was time to go it started up again just fine. When I stopped for a break and turned it off again I got the same problem when I tried to leave. Messed with fuses again and after a few minutes the pump came to life and it started, but needless to say this isn't something I'm comfortable with.

Any suggestions as to what the problem might be?
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Lonexb
Posted on Sunday, April 23, 2006 - 09:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

eddie

i had a similar problem. turned out to be one of my relays.

might be something to look at.

brian
(lonexb)
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Kdan
Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 12:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I had the same problem last year and it was a loose battery cable.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 05:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

MURFEYS LAW tests:

Has phanton electrical problems because you do not keep the battery terminals
tight or replace the battery every two years ...

Fails the wiggle test when riding because you did not tye wrap the wiring so it does not move ...

You did not put electrical grease on the quick disconnet connections and the contacts corrode ...
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New12r
Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If the relays are grey, replace all of them with the white ones, I had that problem reoccur on several occasions until the new relay came out.
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Socalxb
Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 05:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Are those relays something I would have to order?

And by the way, where are they? Thanks.

Eddie
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Lonexb
Posted on Monday, April 24, 2006 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

eddie
the relays are in the other black fuse looking box.(oposite the fuse box in the front fairing.on the clutch side.)

your local dealer should have them. i think they cost $4 or $5 each.

if not give daves a call, and i am sure he can have them to you in a couple of days.

brian
(lonexb)
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Duff24
Posted on Tuesday, April 25, 2006 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

yeah i've ended up replacing all of those relays over the past year or so. when they go bad, the bottom of the relay looks like it's melted. any known cause for this?
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Socalxb
Posted on Sunday, April 30, 2006 - 03:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Swapped in new relays (white) yesterday and it seems to have cured the problem. They were $6 a piece at the dealer so I went ahead and just swapped all three and bought an extra to keep under the seat.

Thanks for the easy fix, guys.
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