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Migs16
Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2011 - 12:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

so today while i was riding around town everything felt fine in the beinging. But after about a hour of just town riding. she started getting choppy at first a little and more and more till i got home. yesterday i did a full oil change drained everything and put 2.5 quarts in the oil bag and i put 2 quarts in the primary. i used lucas motorcycle syn 20w-50. i changed from royal purple to this.

2 weeks ago i did customize the race maps i got from a buddy just pretty much took out the weak spot

so back to my ride once i got home i pulled up the codes and i got 13 (and it said it was running to rich) I have the AFV set to min:100 max:150. What should i do to lean it back to normal?? i did do a AFV reset but thats it will it happen again??

I am on a 03 xbs, open airbox, hawk pipe, and breather mod.

i appreciate the help thanks.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2011 - 12:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

i put 2 quarts in the primary.




And you didn't spill a quart on the floor? It takes approx. one quart to get the level right.


quote:

What should i do to lean it back to normal??




Your fuel map is way too rich, you will need to do some datalogging and lean it out a bit during the cruising range. Your bike will be happier and you will get better fuel economy. By setting your min AFV to 100 you are just masking your issue, I recommend you set it to 85, that way as you figure out your map the bike won't lean out to the point its not ridable.
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Migs16
Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2011 - 11:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yes it says about one quart in the primary. and thats what i did but when i put it i didnt even get close to the fill line. and while i was riding it was shifting very hard. so i put another quart and it fit perfect.

and ok il try to lean out my maps some. but do i only need to do it to my rear cylinder since the sensor is there? or both cylinders?
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Xoptimizedrsx
Posted on Wednesday, March 02, 2011 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

first..

never run min afv at 100... set 90 at the highest.

lean both out evenly.

next.

once you get it where you can set the afv to 100 and its dropping to 95 your good for ruffing it in.

next do this a few times to check it.

set to 100 afv ride at a fixed rpm dont worry about speed or gear. tune check it...

I dont ride first gear so I skip this one.
start with second. ride at 2000 rpm note tp and let it learn an afv. see what it is and the tps needed to get 2000 rpm per gear. afv should be the same at different tps degrees and rpm.

If its different. adjust accordingly.below 100 take out fuel above add.

next gear. 3rd do the same as second.
then 4th and next 5th.

if the afv at any rpm has dropped or spiked that zone needs fixed.The Key is balance across the map per cylinder. if you dont have a front O2 best get one. add the bung across the front to hide it at a angle upward. just run the wire up to where the rear plugs in and plug it in there tie rear out of the way unhooked. repete test on front cylinder to balance it out now. do not adjust rear at this time its correct from before. re chek rear after your done on front. seems like a lot but you can fully do this adjusting in an afternoon.

you can scale with ego as well. Ego scaling is a faster way to do it.

Loading maps from one bike to another is not the best thing to do. If you have your bike custom tuned and its perfect. you get another bike just like it same everything and load the first maps from first bike to it. second bike will run but how well? Poorly IMO... how well is the ring seal and compression, how about valve and carbon?
another factor is was the custom map even made locally to your altitude and fuel type available to you. all fuel is not created equally... heck some places only have 89 oct max where I have up to 100 oct available locally.

adjust it to the bike or tune it from scratch to make it matched to that bike. Maps made on another bike is nothing more than an in the ballpark and only an educated guess. Remember OEM's have equipment and testers out side there area to get a balanced ecm map good for a wide area. But thoses can be refined to each bike individually as well for even better matching. (voids all warranty on ECM's if you choose to adjust or modify anything in it...)

sorry for the book... Again.
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Migs16
Posted on Thursday, March 03, 2011 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hey that sound very easy and doable. im going to find out the afv value in each gear. I have the correct race map on it from a dealer but then i went in myself and redid the maps to take out the week spots but i think i just added to my fuel

i made both cylinders the same and then went back and made the rear a little more richer like the tuning guide says to. hopefully i just need a little more tuning and it will run smooth.

if not il just get rid of my maps and pay for a dyno.
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