G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » XBoard » Archive through January 01, 2011 » Help diagnosing clutch/tranny damage due to lowside « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jraice
Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2010 - 03:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I recently lowsided my bike at around 50-60mph at Thunderhill Raceway on a left turn.

I have repaired everything except the shift lever/linkage and clutch.

External damage to shifting assembly was a broken linkage (right where it attaches to lever) and broken lever mount.

Bike was crashed in 3rd gear and had to be ridden for 5 minutes in dirt to get back to pits, this required high rev's and lots of friction zone. After a few minutes the bike began to smoke so I shut it down. I then started it up (after kicking on the shifter a few times to try and get it to shift down a gear or two) and the clutch could be fully extended without any power going to the wheel, and no stalling.

Took bike home and in driveway at full clutch extension it would start to pull like normal but if I used brake to keep bike stopped it would not stall. Also throttle would not make the bike move any faster. It just had a very small minor push.

Slipping clutch...

I thought it was just the plates but first tried adjusting the clutch, this is where things get weird.

Per the instructions I turned the screw behind the clutch inspection plate (have done this may times) counter clockwise until it lightly bottomed. Rather than bottoming right away as normal it turned for many rotations until it was sticking significantly out of the hole.

At this level of unthreading the clutch wouldn't even operate, the lever wont move and the mechanism is blocked.

My biggest worry is the fact that with a wrench I can't get it to shift.

Any thoughts on what would cause this strange clutch adjustment issue

One person said the shit lever assembly (behind clutch, requires its removal) can sometimes be damaged in low sides.

Also I heard the shift forks can be damaged but that is a pricey alternative I'd rather not think about.

Any tips?

My next move is to remove the clutch and replace the shift linkage/lever so I can really see if it wont shift or not.

I am hoping it just needs new plates and maybe the shift lever assembly part. That'd be a pretty cheap fix.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Fast1075
Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2010 - 08:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You are on the correct diagnostic trail. pull the clutch an see what is broken..you should be able to turn the shift drum manually to check transmission operation.

If the rum won't turn, or it won't go easily into all gears...it's time to pull the motor apart...shame it ain't a tuber, the transmission on those come out without taking the motor apart.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Greg_e
Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2010 - 02:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It definitely sounds like you used up the clutch plates and need a complete pack. After that you might be done but as said you should be able to move the shift drum by hand with a short extension attached to the shaft. So it is possible that enough force was sent into the shift shaft to damage something inside.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jraice
Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2010 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Shift shaft moves but I haven't gotten it to change gears yet.

So would worn clutch plates cause the adjuster to be so far off?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Greg_e
Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2010 - 08:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Absolutely! The adjuster makes up for the thickness change in the clutch plates, if they really are fried they may be a lot thinner which moves the adjuster to the end of the limit. But I think you checked it backwards, you turn the screw in until it bottoms against the spring plate, then back it off a touch for some play. You may want to check what you did and remember that you should only use a very small screwdriver and only use finger and thumb, there is no force required in that adjustment. if in doubt check the video that I did up in the KV.

(Message edited by Greg_E on December 18, 2010)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jraice
Posted on Saturday, December 18, 2010 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I adjust my clutch every time I change tranny oil which has been around half a dozen times so far. I am fairly sure I am doing it right. Per instructions I tuned adjuster (moved easily) counter clockwise then quarter to half turn back in. Sounds like I def need plates. I'll likely buy plates, clutch removal tool and shifter lever/linkage and then inspect damage from there.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jraice
Posted on Sunday, December 19, 2010 - 02:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Update:

Purchased parts necessary to replace lever and linkage, clutch removal tool and a clutch plate kit.

Pretty obvious from clutch adjustment issues and more so from behavior of the bike that the clutch plates are killed so I plan to put the linkage on, inspect parts behind clutch then reinstall everything with new plates. Ideally it'll be working by then but only time will tell.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration