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Ochoa0042
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 01:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Badwebbers, how's it been! Good riding?

I just bought a fresh new battery cuz my last one was caput, and my bike is having issues, for the last couple days its been jonting along and then its loses power, pick back up, loses power, and the light get dim, then brighten, the dash lights do the same too. something haywire in the electrical
Just today the gauge cluster turned off, back lights still running, high beam, neitral, blinkers ect indicators are there, but the cluster stopped working. By then the check engine light finally turned on (like i didnt already know someting was wrong) I was sure it was going to be a low voltage TC, and it was.. #16

I was thinking at first my spark distributer was dying but the trouble code says otherwise. Maybe there might be a ground/short somewhere causing this mojo to happen drawing power away from the bike. It could be the voltage regulator, which is good because I have a spare, and bad because Gawd damnit i have to work on the bike. Maybe all those wheelies have joggled the ecm to poop on me? I dont know, but im pissed

Yes, the battery terminals are tight. Its late im tired; my explanation isnt full, i can reitterate if need be
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Glitch
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 06:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Since it's saying the battery is the issue, I'd check all connections.
The VR is the easiest thing to change, if you have to.
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Glitch
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 06:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Also, checking the VR and stator is really easy if you have an ohm meter.
Do you have a service manual?
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Rays
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 07:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

James, given that you have checked the battery connections one thing worth eliminating is our old friend the '77 connector.

http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AflAL-QRJACkZDRy Ynh3cl8yMGRxNWtoZg&hl=en

May not be your issue but is one of the things to check - do you have the procedure for checking the stator?
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Friday, May 07, 2010 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

basically stick the multimeter in the socket, it should be infinite?, if not than i have a grounded stator or faulty VR?
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Rays
Posted on Saturday, May 08, 2010 - 06:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I should have added a section on testing the stator as it is almost always part of the fault-finding with the VR.

Disconnect the #46 connector( it is item #8 in Figure 5 in my doc) and there are three measurements that you need to do:

1. Stator continuity for each phase - measure from one pin on the 46A connector to each of the other two pins in turn and you will be checking continuity of two of the the stator windings in series each time. The manual calls for checking from pin 1-2, 2-3 and 3-1 so just work your way around the connector and measure from each pin to the other two in turn. The resistance of the two windings in series that you are measuring each time is very low (spec is 0.1 to 0.3 ohms.
2. Stator shorted to ground. Measure from each pin on the 46A connector to a good ground point on the engine - there should be infinite resistance from each pin to ground. Any resistance indicates a bad stator or the wiring between the 46A connector and the stator.
3. Stator AC voltage output. Connect an AC voltmeter across pins 1 & 2 on 46A. Run the engine at 2000RPM. The AC output should be 32-40 volts AC (16-20 volts per 1000 RPM). Repeat the check for pins 2-3 and 3-1.
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Ochoa0042
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 07:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

hey thanks for the help Rays, im missing my troubleshooting page for the VR.. nonethe less i tested the #46 connector to of stator for all you said and it was good, and the #77 is in great condition. So this would mean that I have a bad VR right? idk how tht page got lost, but it did. but if its not hte battery, and not the stator, then the only thing it could be is the VR? double checking here : )
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Glitch
Posted on Sunday, May 09, 2010 - 10:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

1-be sure the vr is connected to the battery
a-check that the vr regulator halves are connected.
b-check the main fuse is good
2-disconnect the stator connector
3-check regulator connector with trouble light
a-ground one end
b-touch the other end to the vr pins one at a time
c-if light glows vr is bad
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Rays
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 04:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

There is quite a bit of circuitry in that VR (see dissected VR below) so it is pretty much a 'go' or 'no go' check if it doesn't have a failure that can be measured through one of the connectors.



If you are certain about the '77 connector (make sure you check for the pin fit in the socket, not just a visual check - that kept me guessing for weeks until I revisited the pin fitment), then the next thing to try would a VR. Do you know anyone who might lend you one to isolate the fault?
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