| Author | Message | ||
     Ponti1 |
Bike is a 2008 1125R. Leaving today for work, everything was fine. Pulled out and was going though the neighborhood, and all of a sudden the instrument cluster goes off and the bike dies. Headlights work, but nothing else. Any ideas? I am getting out the electrical diagnostics manual, but am an electrical idiot. Could use any suggestions. Thanks! | ||
| Ponti1 |
Correction...The brake light is still working when key is on. No running lights, turn signals, instrument cluster, and starter does not turn over. (Message edited by ponti1 on May 15, 2012) | ||
| Pmjolly |
I'll be watching this one closely. I really don't know. Could it be the ignition switch failure? The wires going in the back don't have enough slack, and the solder joints break. The headlights and starter are on the same fuse, so not a blown fuse. Battery good? Battery and ground connections good? Have you done any work on it or changed anything recently? | ||
| Ponti1 |
Ignition switch must be good since headlights come on, right? No changes recently. Bike was last serviced several thousand mile ago, but not yet due for another yet. Just shy of 30K on the odometer. Checked the obvious connections for something unplugged, but could be missing something I guess, since it's a very tight area. Got the front fairing off, but nothing apparent so far. Electrical manual is not helping me so far, so I am SOL unless someone has input. | ||
| Ponti1 |
Oh, also, battery is good. No issues in voltage test, and I keep her on the tender every time I come home. | ||
| Pmjolly |
The ignition switch has several wires connected to the back. I'm not sure which ones do what, but your lights might still work with the rest not working. I know when they fail, the bikes die. Most have intermittent failures before it goes altogether. They notice it dies when turning the bars one way or the other. The wires get pulled, and break the circuit. I'd check to make sure the wires are still good going into the ignition switch. Maybe push in on them while trying to turn things on? Some have repaired the solder joints and continued using them. | ||
| Avalaugh |
Sounds like ignition switch to me, when mine died was headlights off and engine died. Personally I'd get a new one and re route the cables and modify the fairing bracked, mines been fine ever since. | ||
| Dano_12s |
Ponti,have you checked fuses? | ||
| Ponti1 |
Most have intermittent failures before it goes altogether. They notice it dies when turning the bars one way or the other. Come to think of it, it did die once the other day when I was pulling around the other vehicles the driveway (bars turned). I attributed at the time to letting clutch out and not giving gas, though it still was odd. Ponti,have you checked fuses? Working on that first, and then will start tinkering in the area of ignition switch. I did already check all the wires for wear on the insulation. No wear, but there are definitely some areas with not much slack, and the ignition switch wires were one of those areas.. | ||
| Avalaugh |
It's the wires inside the ignition barrel, the soldered joints break, not viewable until you take it apart, not a big job, a tad fiddley but it is possible to take it off without removing anything else. | ||
| Bueller_bjorn |
Sounds like the ignition switch issue, I had the same problem last year and had to solder my wires up and free slack. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/635704.html | ||
| Jdugger |
Could be a loose ground... | ||
| Avalaugh |
If it was loose/bad ground the rear light plays tricks, that's seems fine ! | ||
| Ponti1 |
Well, I can't seem to find a tamper-resistant T45 locally, so I ordered one online. Will dig into this in a few days I guess. Thanks to all for the input! | ||
| Jdugger |
> If it was loose/bad ground the rear light plays tricks, Not always. There's a ground for the cluster at the headstock that won't impact the brake light... | ||
| Ponti1 |
I have no lights except headlight with key on. No tail or brake, and no turn signals. No lights on cluster, and starter button does nothing. | ||
| Avalaugh |
All you need is a cross head screw driver. There's 2 screws holding the electrical part of the ignition to the mechanical part. Separate the 2 halfs, can do this on the bike, takes 5 mins, your then able to use the end of the key to turn it and hey presto your off on your way  (Message edited by Avalaugh on May 17, 2012) | ||
| Ponti1 |
Oh? Sure would be good if I didn't have to wait. I am not sure what you mean about the last part though. I get that there must be two screws to separate the mechanical half from the electrical, but not sure what you mean by "your then able to use the end of the key to turn it" | ||
| Avalaugh |
It will become clear |
