| Author | Message | ||
     Wildwilly |
Removing the plastic spoiler that is attached to the muffler. Got 6 of the T27 bolts removed and buggered the 7th. (LH toward back of bike) Using a Snapon T handle, had it half way out and it felt like it had been slathered in thread locker. I said DOH and a few other words. It is recessed in the plastic so I can't get vice grips on it. Any suggestion for removing this beast without messing up the plastic? Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Husky |
Use a drill bit the same diameter or larger as the screw shank to drill out (remove) the head. Remove the spoiler and then try to remove the screw using your vice grips. You should chase the threads with a tap before installing a new screw. Good Luck, Joe | ||
| Dave |
Didja try tapping the torx driver with a hammer? I used to use an impact driver years a go on my old triumph to get stubborn fasteners out. DAve | ||
| Alchemy |
Wildwilly, I had a similar problem. Tried a soldering iron on the head but the heat did not help. I ended up with some success by dousing the bolt in PB Blaster (I think) thread penetrating oil and trying to drive the screw back in a little. This did not work at first so I had to cut a slot in the top of the bolt with a dremel and cutting wheel. The cutting wheel was a little too big to get at the bolt head so I had to wear the wheel diameter down a little by cutting on a brick for a bit. It still sliced the plastic a little but I got the slot cut and then a screwdriver got it moving a little. Once it moves you are home free. The penetrating oil will be your friend as you work the bolt back and forth a little more at each turn. This is extremely annoying and new owners should be advised upfront to use the penetrating lube when trying to get these bolts out. It sure burned me up having to go through all these hassles. | ||
| Birdmanrh |
WD40 on the bolt, try to spray into the threads. Let it sit for a minute and then try removing it again. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Amputate... I doubt the cost of replacing one side of the chin cowl would be worth the time, effort, buying more tools, and still chingering-up the plastic anyway by trying to get at the screw. Get the plastic out of the way so you can focus on removing the bolt from the really $$$ part, the muffler. Then replace all those fasteners down there with stainless socket heads bearing down against stainless washers w/ nylon washers beneath. Blue LocTite on the threads. Torque snugly. Future problems solved. | ||
| Wildwilly |
Thanks for all the replies. Busted the head off a bolt, years ago, and drilled out the bolt with success. My fear this time is I will get the bolt out AND destroy the plastic. Xbimmer: Your idea was my first thought. Chin spoiler is one piece and I got a feeling very expensive. Will check with the dealer today. I read somewhere, and don't remember where, that there are 2 different types of torx bits, and that H-D uses one that has to be special ordered. Any info on this? Thanks again to everyone that responded. This site is a wealth of info and I hope to also contribute. | ||
| Bake |
Just drill the head off it like Huskey says, then worry about the bolt remains. | ||
| Wesman |
Old trick.....center drill the screw and hammer in a masonry nail / cut nail .....grab the nail with the visegrip and turn out (and pray) | ||
| Red_chili |
It's a standard Torx, not fancy... but as mentioned, T27, not T25. T25 almost sorta seems to loosely fit, don't do it. Impact driver? I have a hammer impact for such things. Worth its weight in beer. (Message edited by Red_Chili on February 13, 2007) | ||
| Freyke |
Wildwilly, Go buy a screw extractor set... they always come in handy. Works kike a champ! That's a common problem (the stuck chin fairing screws). I believe it's due to the dissimilar) metals and the heating cooling cycle of the exhaust. Lesson learned here is to butter those two front bolts with anti-seize before you button it back up... Go buy a screw extractor set... they always come in handy. Works like a champ! http://www.sears.com regards, Kevin | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Did you even try the WD40? LOL | ||
| Wildwilly |
Birdmanrh: Haven't had a chance to try anything yet. Been shoveling snow since early AM. Will try the WD. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Yeah Willy, you might try to salvage it first, the chin fairing's in three parts and I just checked the $$ for the left side piece: $42 from my local dealer for a piece of plastic... | ||
| Paochow |
Similar issue here. I still have a busted screw and and busted extractor in the front cowl mount of my race muffler. First time I went to install it, the torx screw seemed to bind a bit and I made the mistake of trying to clear the threads with more force. Drilled it out a bit (should have done it all the way in retrospect) and tried an Extractor. It broke off flush when I tried it  . I smoked up four cobalt alloy bits to gain 4mm into the 10mm of extractor that is left inside. Anyone know of some harder drill bits I can try when I borrow my friend's drill press to finish the job. I'm going to need to get that mount working before the front engine guard comes from Touratech, although it may be a while. (Message edited by paochow on February 13, 2007) | ||
| Wildwilly |
Xbimmer: Thanks for the $$$ heads up. Is the center piece riveted to the side pieces? It appeared to be a one piece affair. Hmmm. . . 3 X $42.00 = Ouch! LOL | ||
| Gearloose |
Your dealer or Andy at Appleton HD can get ya fixed up for less.Daves was selling black ones(centers) to Uly owners that wanted to match the color to the side pieces before starting his own bow business. Gearloose | ||
| Tootal |
Paochow, take a torch and heat the extractor red hot and let it cool, that will anneal the metal and you should be able to drill it then. Those things are really hard! You could use a carbide drill but they are rather brittle and expensive so just anneal it. Good luck!} | ||
| Tootal |
Wildwilly, Do what Husky said! If you drill the head off the screw you can remove the plastic then use vise grips to finish the screw. I've done it many times. You just use a drill bit larger than the threads and smaller than the head. I think those are 1/4"-20 screws so use a 5/16" drill. It will center itself in the torx hole. I hate to see you spend money on such an easy fix. | ||
| Birdmanrh |
Daves was selling black ones(centers) to Uly owners that wanted to match the color to the side pieces before starting his own bow business. What?! Dave is gone???} | ||
| Chadhargis |
Yep...he started his own archery equipment business. We'll probably see him on the cover of Fortune magazine in a few years. LOL! |
