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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through November 18, 2011 » Removing Transmission Sprocket « Previous Next »

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Terrible1one3
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 05:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I did a search and have the Service manual already but could use some real world advice/how-to info.

I have my bike jacked up and tied down, plastic cover removed, the nut itself is intimidating because of it's size (I don't have a tool to get around it).

I opened the service manual to see where to start and of course there are custom tools required according to the book.

Is there a way to remove it without having these tools? I know I will need to find a socket that fits the nut but other then that can I just lock the wheel against the swing-arm or something like that?

Any walk throughs on how to set that up would be great.

I am removing it to replace the stupid neutral light indicator switch which took a dump on me while I was doing other maintenance.

Thanks in advance.
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Nik
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 05:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The 'tool' in question is just an aluminum plate, approximately 1.125" x 4" x .187" with rounded corners. Only took me a couple minutes to make one.

Definitely get or make the locking bar. It jams the sprockets against the chain so that when removing the sprocket nuts no forces are transmitted to the engine or transmission.
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Terrible1one3
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 06:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm sorry but I am referring to the "transmission sprocket" as described in the Service Manual.

It is the front sprocket for the belt final drive. Is that what you are talking about? I think you are talking about the sprocket in the primary.
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Nik
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 06:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

oh yeah sorry. I just happen to be working on it myself at the moment so it's on my mind.
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Gamdh
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

American Sport Bike sells them if you can't make one yourself (like me)....

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16075.html
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Terrible1one3
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 12:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Once again... Wrong sprocket.
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Wbrisett
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 04:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Maybe this is the one you're looking for? (I haven't broken my transmission down that far to need one myself).

http://www.debrix.com/Transmission-Sprocket-Nut-Wr ench-Harley-Big-Twin-p/70445-m1.htm
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 10:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Terribleone3,
Have your bike firmly on it's sidestand when removing any large torqued on nut or bolts. Applying torque to a bike on a jack stand is a good way to upset the bike and then cry about all the damage its falling to the floor has caused.
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Terrible1one3
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 10:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This is the sprocket I'm going for:



Electra, thanks for the advice but this thing is locked down on the jack. Not my first rodeo with it : ). But if it does come off I'll let you know so you can say "I told you so!" : )
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Ian03xl
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you can have an assistant hold the rear brake firmly while you loosen the nut.
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Terrible1one3
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 11:47 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Assistant... haha, that would be one of the nicer things I've called my neighbor : )
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Rays
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Terrible - did you run into issues using the ground down socket approach?
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Tootal
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 05:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First you're going to have to take that locking plate off!!

Seriously if the neighbor doesn't work you could pull your primary cover and lock up the transmission with the 4" plate. That's a real pain considering what you're trying to do but it would work.
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Odd
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 07:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The neutral switch can be remove without removing the belt hub. I will try to send a picture of the tool later when I GET MY CAMERA
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Terrible1one3
Posted on Monday, November 07, 2011 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rays.... this may sound 100% stupid but I totally forgot in the other thread people said it could be done with a ground down socket..

Wow, brain fart, I will look into that tomorrow most likely! Thanks for the reminder /bonk`
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Rays
Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2011 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LOL - hopefully this will save you a heap of effort.
I just did a quick measurement of my socket (it has been used for 3 different 12X switch replacements) and it started as a 50c rusty 5/8" socket ground down to a diameter of 0.720" for 0.500" and the remaining section ground down to 0.845".
The actual dimensions are obviously not really critical - you just need the bottom section thin enough to fit into the recessed part of the crankcase and the stepped section thin enough to clear the pulley.

You have to fiddle a little with the socket driver extension because the neutral switch electrical connection will protrude some of the way into the end of the socket but with the small torque involved this is not an issue.
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Odd
Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2011 - 05:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

here is a cool tool for removing the neutral switch without having to pull the belt sprocket(a real pain in the rear). The tool size is 5/8".




tool for neutral switch

tool for neutral switch 2
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Reeftonbuell
Posted on Monday, March 09, 2015 - 12:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tool you have made here what size drive is the socket, is it a 1/4 3/8 or 1/2 ?
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