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Archive through October 23, 2013Froggy30 10-23-13  08:31 pm
         

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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 08:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Froggy...I think I need to uncomplicate some things with regard to wiring. Quite a while a go, I rewired both accessory outlets to be hot (on my Centech fuse block) so I could charge stuff at night while camping. The accessory outlets are wired to keyed power from the factory (specifically, key on and kill switch on).

I also had some one-off custom modules made along with custom LED inserts for the factory Uly turn signals. To power the modules, I used the power that originally powered the accessory outlets. The modules keep all of the LED's in the turns signals illuminated as running lights but interrupts the power when the signals are activated, so they will flash.

Needless to say, there's a ton of wiring under the screen and I'm thinking it might be time to ditch those modules and go back to stock.

Tipsy
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Uly_man
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Needless to say, there's a ton of wiring under the screen and I'm thinking it might be time to ditch those modules and go back to stock". I would. The bike has enough wiring issues as it is without adding any more possible problems. Just me though.
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yikes, I have a similar issue with my 06, I added/removed/hacked so much crap onto my bike that the wiring under the dash is shot and I randomly lose everything other than the fuel injection. I'm just too lazy to go in and fix it, it is like it wants to be a trackbike!
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Tootal
Posted on Wednesday, October 23, 2013 - 11:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Froggy, just don't take out the USB port that connects to your brain! Hate to see you slowly die like a binar with a blown computer!
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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Saturday, November 16, 2013 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I finally tore into the bike in an effort to find my short. First of all, I'd like to give a swift kick in the balls to the idiot who installed all of this additional wiring (two HID's, each with separate relays, a set of PIAA 510's, a Centech fuse block under the seat with leads coming forward for each headlight, the PIAA's and the auxiliary outlet, custom made LED turn signals with custom made running light modules, a BackOff! brake light modulator and a Lite Blazer license plate light bar).

Oh yeah, that idiot was me

After a good bit of tear down, I determined that the Lite Blazer was consuming itself. This was evident from the black smoke and acrid smell emanating from it. Okay, that was easy.

After deciding to remove the custom made modules (which allow the LED turn signals to remain illuminated as running lights) I determined one of my rear custom LED turn signals had also consumed itself. So, the rear turn signals were removed in favor of a pair of stock 1125 LED signals (which I've subsequently read also have a penchant for failure).

So, now I can turn "on" the ignition without blowing any fuses. Success! Well, almost.

As mentioned, I long ago ran hot leads from the Centech fuse block to both the front and rear auxiliary outlets. The outlets as wired from the factory require that the key be "on" as well as the kill switch set to "run."

I had been using the power leads that originally powered to auxiliary outlets instead to give power to the custom modules. They provided 12v to keep the turn signals illuminated as running lights. Once the kill switch was set to "run", the turn signals illuminated as running lights. Now that the modules are removed, the original (front and rear) auxiliary outlet power leads are not being utilized. However, since I've got this all torn apart, I want to make sure everything is functioning properly.

And therein lies the problem. Neither (factory) auxiliary outlet circuit is powered. With the kill switch set to "run" they should show 12v. There are no blown fuses and I tried swapping relays because it appears the factory auxiliary outlets are on the AUX relay.

I'm stumped. Everything else appears to be fixed and although I don't need for the leads to be powered at the moment, I still want to figure out why they're not.

Idea? Suggestions?

Tipsy
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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

And therein lies the problem. Neither (factory) auxiliary outlet circuit is powered. With the kill switch set to "run" they should show 12v. There are no blown fuses and I tried swapping relays because it appears the factory auxiliary outlets are on the AUX relay.

I'm stumped. Everything else appears to be fixed and although I don't need for the leads to be powered at the moment, I still want to figure out why they're not.

Idea? Suggestions?




I solved the latest problem. I have no idea why but simply running the engine supplied voltage to the accessory outlet circuits.

For the nearly five years the LED running lights were powered by this circuit, they would illuminate with the engine off and the kill switch set to "run." No idea why it's different now, but I'm glad it works, even if it's not connected to anything at the moment.

Tipsy
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Froggy
Posted on Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The ECM on 08+ bikes will shut the circuit off if the voltage is too low. Starting the bike will bring the voltage up after a few seconds and then the circuit will come back on. My guess either battery fatigue or too much troubleshooting caused the sitting battery voltage to drop enough for the ECM to deactivate it.
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Tipsymcstagger
Posted on Sunday, November 17, 2013 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


quote:

The ECM on 08+ bikes will shut the circuit off if the voltage is too low. Starting the bike will bring the voltage up after a few seconds and then the circuit will come back on. My guess either battery fatigue or too much troubleshooting caused the sitting battery voltage to drop enough for the ECM to deactivate it.




That's it! I used to know that. Getting old sucks : )

At any rate, it's just about all back together. It's a brand new AGM but I've been messing with it while trouble shooting, so I decided to put it on a trickle and call it a night.

I still want to get back in there and redo a lot of my wiring from five years ago. But I need to order a bunch of connectors first. I can't believe I was satisfied with this wiring when I initially did it. My standards have risen. And owning a proper crimper helps a ton.

Tipsy
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