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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through September 29, 2013 » Advice on removing front ECM bolt please « Previous Next »

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4_pete_sake
Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2013 - 07:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As subject says....

Any hints or secrets to get the nut on the front bolt to re-engage..... Just spinning

Please help

Cheers-pee
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Steveford
Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2013 - 08:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You have to wedge a screwdriver blade in there to catch one of the flats as it's only a hunk of plastic.
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Bikelit
Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2013 - 09:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


ecm hole
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4_pete_sake
Posted on Saturday, September 07, 2013 - 11:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did you just drill that out???

Does it ruin the function of the comfort kit if you have it???
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Bikelit
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 12:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used a uni-bit for the hole and a bicycle bar end plug to cover, but electrical tape works also.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As much as I hate drilling holes in parts to get to things, that right there is a good idea. That current setup is mickey mouse for sure, that should have been a captive nut in that inner fender from the beginning.

Probably *still* hard to get at, as the ECM will be on top of it when you have to tighten it.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 10:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I installed a bolt from underneath while the ECM was out. Nutted it to the mounting point. Clearanced the underside of the ECM tab to clear the nut and still sit flat. Now the ECM slides onto a "stud" and has a washer and nut on top when it's installed.
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Teeps
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 12:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ratbuell Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2013
I installed a bolt from underneath while the ECM was out.


Same here... 'cept I used JB Weld to hold the bolt. No ECM modification needed.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, September 08, 2013 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice. I'm also picturing one of those steel threaded U clips like they use on cars..

Like these things:
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4_pete_sake
Posted on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 04:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok.... Lets try this again, but in a different vein....

New ECM installed.... Not gracefully but it's in and tight.... But bike won't start....???

I live at about 8000 ft elevation and I feel this may be contributing.... The bike had a throttle surge before and via intense research here i thought I would change ECM's as many with cracked ECM's had described similar performance..... All this aside.... Why won't my bike start or rather run more then one curr chunk....???

When I hook up the old ECM it fires up.... But not the new... I read about having to run the bike and do a reset.... Or whatever its called.... where the computer learns where you are and adjusts.....3000 + rpm for 20 min.... Did this many times with he old ECM which would help for a short while.... Did this when I moved here and unloaded it off the truck....not a fun first ride... Bucking and back firing....

Please help
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Xbeau12s
Posted on Monday, September 16, 2013 - 12:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

is it just a replacement ECM? Stock?
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Nallac
Posted on Monday, September 16, 2013 - 02:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like a miss matched ECM with Different firmware.
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4_pete_sake
Posted on Monday, September 16, 2013 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes - stock...

I tried to do a EBR ECM but with a stock exhaust on a 2006 they don't do it....
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Steveford
Posted on Monday, September 16, 2013 - 09:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think you need to do a TPS reset with the new ECM to tell it that the throttle is actually fully closed.
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4_pete_sake
Posted on Monday, September 16, 2013 - 10:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The only way to do a TPS reset is with a computer and spy cable, right????
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Uly_man
Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 03:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you change out the ECM you need to do a TPS reset. This is done from HD, ECM-SPY or TunerPro. You will need a laptop, the prog and a lead.

Did the box the ECM came in say it was BLANK? If it did you will need the flash over the old ECMs numbers or the bike will not run.
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4_pete_sake
Posted on Tuesday, September 17, 2013 - 12:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Uly man.... thats what i was afraid of....

ANyone in the Denver area that has ECM-SPY??? Always looking to make new friends....

Cheers - pete
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4_pete_sake
Posted on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 11:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have to use a PC for EcM spy....???

I couldn't find it on the website where it says yes or no to Mac.....
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Uly_man
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2013 - 03:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I do not know about a Mac with a Mac OS but I think it is PC or Palm OS. Can you get hold of a laptop or netbook?
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Dtaylor
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2013 - 06:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've looked into it (but not yet tried), and it appears that running ECM Spy on Mac hardware requires either running a virtual Windows or Palm machine, or booting directly into Windows.


(Message edited by dtaylor on September 19, 2013)
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Al_lighton
Posted on Thursday, September 19, 2013 - 07:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After I got the original nut out the first time (no small feat in itself once it rounded out the plastic), I replaced the standard nut with a threaded rod coupling nut. It's just a long hex fully threaded standoff, essentially. Home Depot had it. It sticks down far enough to grab with a socket and is long enough to hold in place while I got the bolt started.

Al
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