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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through August 04, 2013 » Running bad when cold « Previous Next »

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Frankf
Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 12:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Having trouble finding the problem on my 06 Uly, race ECM, drummer exhaust. When its cold, lots of missing, popping, erratic idle.

Its at Oakland HD now. So far they fixed intake leak, replaced engine temp sensor. The O2 sensor was replace recently, new plugs and wires, but even with all this, problem is still there.

Any suggestions? Could it be the ECM has gone bad? What about fuel pressure?
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Uly_man
Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 04:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That, but I may be wrong, sounds like a "parting out" job. Did they "prove" all those parts were no good, how did they "prove" them faulty and since it has had no effect do they expect YOU TO PAY for them? How much has it cost so far. I would bet that you will get little change out of $400.

"Any suggestions?". Ensure that the TPS reset has been done correctly. Make SURE that the face of the sub frame mount for the battery and two loom Earths has had the paint filed off. This is a HD Tech update and a well known problem to the running of these early bikes. If they are parting out next would be the IAT. Cheap, easy and they do go bad. Next would be a logged run to see if any faults show up. After that re-fit your old ECM and can and start again to see what happens.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Running bad when cold but how does it run when warm?
My 2008 runs crappy when it's cold too.
It's been that way since new.

Are you sure something is actually wrong with it?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 09:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Start the bike.

Let it idle while you gear up. Close the garage. Take your time.

If it still hiccups for the first couple miles....take longer next time. these bikes need to warm up.
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Etennuly
Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 10:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure the tech does the TPS reset with a fully warmed up engine. In the past I have seen them hook up the 'puters, start the cold engine and tell the customer nothing is wrong with their TPS reset.

I have also done a cold engine reset and it ran worse than when I started.

I totally agree with others here on warm up. I let mine idle for five minutes on even a hot day.
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Buewulf
Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They fixed an intake leak? Really? A temp sensor was a reasonable guess on their part, but it sounds like just a guess. They could have and should have easily verified it was bad just as they could have with an intake leak. Considering there is no change in your issue, I'd be tempted to call BS on that, but you be the judge.

I guess the most important question is "how long have you owned the bike?". Many are proposing the poor cold-running is normal, but it clearly isn't if the behavior of the bike has changed during your ownership of it. Now if you just sold a DL1000 and replaced it with the Uly, then I would definitely agree with the consensus thus far to just let it warm up - I too was horrified by the mechanical racket the bike makes when I first got it. If the bike is indeed new to you, you may want to post a sound clip so others can determine if they feel it is normal. It's all relative.
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Frankf
Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 11:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Seems the things they have done so far were needed. The Engine temp sensor wire had a frayed bare section, plug wires were cracked, the previous replacement of the O2 sensor was confirmed by error code, and intake leak was confirmed.

I've owned this bike since new, so the cold running problem is definitly different than in the past. Way worse, almost un rideable for the first 10 miles or more. Have always let it idle and ridden easy at first.

They did replace the ECM with one off another bike to see if it makes the difference. Last I cked they were going to test it once it cooled down.

What is the IAT??

Thanks for all the comments and help.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, July 24, 2013 - 04:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Intake Air Temperature

It's the sensor that lives in your airbox.

One thing that can be done is to plug the bike into ECMspy without starting it after it's been sitting for a good long time like overnight.
The engine temp sensor reading and the intake sensor readings should be pretty close to each other.

(Message edited by natexlh1000 on July 24, 2013)
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Buewulf
Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 10:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can try to clean the IAT with some alcohol before you actually replace it.
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Uly_man
Posted on Thursday, July 25, 2013 - 10:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I can not stress enough how important this bit is?

"Make SURE that the face of the sub frame mount for the battery and two loom Earths has had the paint filed off. This is a HD Tech update and a well known problem to the running of these early bikes." It really does FU*K up the numbers to the ECM. And while you think "it was ok" before that may NOT be the case now. If you had the bike from new and it has not been done it WILL need to be done. And that is a stone cold FACT. It is only a 10 min job anyway and if DIY free.

The IAT can go bad but it may not throw a CEL code. Mine was saying it was 50c while the air was only 20c. Which of course told the ECM that I was trying to run my bike in 50c air. I have no idea why it failed in this way but it did.
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Firemanjim
Posted on Sunday, July 28, 2013 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bring it to ourshop and I will tell you what is really wrong. 707 548 7906
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