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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through September 28, 2012 » Bad VR or Stator? How do I test? « Previous Next »

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Whisperstealth
Posted on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think I'm having voltage regulator or stator problems. Maybe just a loose ground, but kinda doubt it.

Bike is an '09 XT. 41,000 miles on it.

The other night my headlights went very bright for a few seconds then back to normal. This has happened twice now. In addition, my engine light comes on after the bike has run for about five minutes, stays on for a couple of minutes; then goes out and generally stays out way for the rest of the ride. It sometimes come back on for a moment or two.

I'm looking for advice / ideas. And directions on how to go about testing the VR and Stator. Thanks!
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Andymnelson
Posted on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 05:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check your service manual- it has very good troubleshooting steps for the charging system. Mine is for an '06, so is of no use here.

(Message edited by andymnelson on September 17, 2012)
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Griffmeister
Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2012 - 10:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Drop down towards the bottom of the page and read all the posts under "Bad VR". I think the '09 is still a two wire stator in which case all the info you need will be here. I believe all the diagnostics are in the Electrical Manual which is a separate book. Worth having for the future, check Ebay.
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Ulyscol
Posted on Wednesday, September 19, 2012 - 02:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Best check for the stator is the ol' sniff test. Open the primary inspection cover and smell. You will know right away if the stator is bad or going bad. My service manual says to refer to the electrical manual for stator and vr diagnostics. I don't have an electrical manual but as others have said the post a little ways down has great info.
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Griffmeister
Posted on Thursday, September 20, 2012 - 12:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Somebody just replied to "Bad VR", now it's at the top of the page again!
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Whisperstealth
Posted on Friday, September 21, 2012 - 05:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well did the tests as recommended by you fine folks. They all came up negative in terms of having a bad stator or VR.

The sniff test came closest to indecating a bad stator with a little bit of a burnt smell. Out of six people who smelled some fluid I pulled out; I was the only one who thought it smelled "too burny". Two said it had a slight smell, the other three said they couldn't smell anything. One of the people who did say it had a slight burned smell said it was common to tranny fluid, and the heat gernerated by the clutches. Considering how hot it was this year; and how hard I ran it in the heat, what he said makes sense.

And my engine light is no longer coming on. Conclusion: My connection plugs were a little bit corodded and unplugging and replugging them four or five times cleaned them up some. I'm going to do a more thorough cleaning today.

Thanks for the help guys! Badweb is like a personal mech in a bottle : )
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Erwin8r
Posted on Saturday, September 22, 2012 - 01:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Use some dialectric grease on them if you're having corrosion issues...
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Ulybrew
Posted on Saturday, September 22, 2012 - 11:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys, I performed the sniff test today and save a good bit of time. Test was positive for bad stator. 20100 mileage. Has there been a full write up on the R&R of the process?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The manual (and the swap) are very straightforward. If you don't have a shop manual...GET ONE before doing the job.
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 12:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you are getting periods of high voltage, the problem is not with the stator. When the stator fails, power goes only downward.

Stators don't fail then heal. The stator is just a bunch of wire coils. Once they start failing they only get worse. Regulators, being electronic switches, may go into intermittent failure mode before completely going kaput.
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Desertjeff
Posted on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My stator was bad and I'm I am convinced the voltage regulator caused it. My first test after the battery went dead once was a voltage test with the engine running. I had 11 or so volts at the battery until I got over 3500 RPM or so at point the voltage spiked to over 18 volts at the battery. The next test showed a shorted stator. No further testing was required. The stator when removed had an obviously burnt coil.
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Ulybrew
Posted on Monday, September 24, 2012 - 06:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

American Sport Bike happens to be out of the screws that hold on the Stator. 4 of them with what looks to be red lock tite in the threads. Do these screws need to be replaced? I understand the concept of bolt stretching as a means of proper torque. Is this that type of situation?
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