Author |
Message |
Hunn
| Posted on Tuesday, July 27, 2010 - 10:29 pm: |
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Going to replace the original orange bearings in my 06 Uly, 25.000miles this weekend and while I'm at it I will throw out the badly pulsing original front brake rotor and replace it with an 6mm Erik Buell Racing disc. I'm tired of sanding/scrubbing that dang OEM rotor only to get a few miles without the ever increasing pulsing. I also have sintered Ferodo pads for the rear and Lyndall Gold+ for the front at hand. Have changed bearings, pads and rotors before, but not on a Buell. Any tips, hints and help are very much appreciated. |
Cyclonedon
| Posted on Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 08:29 am: |
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do you have the service manual? I've never done it before but I would go to the service manual if I was going to try and make those changes by myself. |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 07:01 pm: |
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I tried to get a three jaw blind bearing/throwout bearing puller to work to no avail. I ended up using an expanding type puller that worked great(Just like in the manual) Install the rotor side bearing first then the pulley side. Do not forget the spacer. I used a 1/2" threaded rod and bearing installers for both sides pulling in the rotor side, then installing the spacer, then pulling in the pulley side. I got stuck by not getting the spacer centered in the wheel and it held up the pulley side bearing installation, so be careful to keep the spacer inplace when pulling the pulley side in. I used duct tape wrapped around a 1/2 iron pipe that was shorter that the overall width of the wheel and bearings. When you encounter any resistance while drawing the bearings in STOP and find out what is going on. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 07:26 pm: |
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It helps to put the bearings in your freezer a couple of hours before you do the install. The shrinkage results in less force required to move them into place (easier) and less wear on the wheel bore so it'll last longer. |
Mark_weiss
| Posted on Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 09:22 pm: |
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In addition to freezing the new bearings, I use a heat gun and heat the hub to about 180F before installing. I heat the hub before removing bearings too (all of my bikes). Just makes it easier to do. |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 09:35 pm: |
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There are some additional technical details regarding the bearings supplied by Al Lighton in a post in the new Uly owner's section here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=142838&post=1505281#POST1505281 |
Hunn
| Posted on Wednesday, July 28, 2010 - 11:07 pm: |
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Thanks everybody for your input. Did the whole thing today after work. Took me about 2 hours and a quite a few Bud Lights. Used a "Blind Bearing Puller" with expanding jaws, easy as pie. Couple of pulls with the slide hammer and the bearings pop right out. Clean out the seat and reinstall the new bearings using a 1 3/8th socket for the front and a 1 5/8th socket for the rear to tap the bearings into place with a hammer, only touching the race. Amazing enough the original red bearings were still smooth as a babies behind after 25.000 miles. Also installed the new 6mm front rotor and the new pads. (thank you Erik Buell Racing and American Sportbike for your fast and professional service) Cleaned and reused the old hardware with blue loctite. Took the bike for a 2 mile spin after installation. I had forgotten how the front brake feels without pulsing! The Lyndall pads are amazing. Love the noise they are making when you pull the handle. Have a full week off starting next monday. Myself ,three of my best friends and my wife are going to terrorize Oregon and Northern California with our bikes. Intend to make good use of the new brakes. |
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