| Author | Message | ||
     Wolfridgerider |
I keep my bike on a battery tender and it is taking a good bit of time for the light to go green. I have had a few hard starts lately and about 2 weeks ago I had to get a jump. may be time for a new stator and I do the XB9 primary in while I'm at it I just hate mess'n with it when its not on my terms or time schedule fyi '06 with 51,000 miles on the clock | ||
| Froggy |
What about the 77 connector? Battery on the way out will also do that. If you pop open the primary inspection windows you will smell the burnt out stator if thats it. | ||
| Etennuly |
Have you load tested the battery? They can show the voltage, but be weakened by toting your ass around on hot days!  Kinda like having horse power with no torque. | ||
| Tootal |
Put a Volt meter on it and rev it up and see what you get. 14V good, 12V bad, 17V really bad!! I did the XB9 and then the stator went out and I had to do it again!!!  If you can afford it I'd say change it and call it preventative maintenance. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
77 was soldered a while ago Put a Volt meter on it can ya give me the step by step so I do it right... | ||
| Reepicheep |
If it's an 06 with an original battery... it's likely just the battery. Like suggested above, slap a volt meter on it and start it up. If it's got more then 12.7 or so volts, it's trying to charge a battery that won't charge anymore. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Get a good voltmeter (not the 9.99 one, pay at least $45). Start 'er up with the voltmeter set for V-DC (if it gives you a choice, use the 20v range, it'll be more accurate). Black probe on -, red on +, at the battery. Should show 13.6-14v at 2000rpm. If it does, and you're having your issues...battery time. If it doesn't, do a stator test (you'll need a manual and need to un-solder that 77 connector to do it - if you get that far, PM me and I can send you manual pages). The stator test will tell you if its stator, or VR (my S2 was not charging recently; turns out it was the VR, and the tests nailed it down for me). | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
I get ta buy more tools!! WOOT | ||
| Pso |
My plug from the stator to the VR went out. It went slowely nne pin burned out completly. the inside lookded like the toasted #77 plug. This plug has 3 black wires in and 3 out. It is right behind the #77 plug. I thought seeing as how I had fixed the #77 I was set to go. I have a GPs that lets me know the voltage and noticed that the voltage was slowely dropping down. Got to the point that I had enough juice to run the bike but not enough to charge it.Hard wired that little sucker together, now consistant charging of between 13.6 and 14v depending on rpm and what electronics I am running. Also as suggested above open the inspection window and take a sniff, if the stator is burned up you will smell it.I would start with that other plug first it is the easiest to deal with and the cheapest to check. | ||
| Etennuly |
An easy do it at home load test goes like this; with the battery fully charged(fresh off the tender) hook the two leads to the battery. It should read between 12.4 and 12.8 for a good battery While it is hooked up and you are watching the meter, hit the starter. It should not drop below 9V or so. If the voltage spikes down lower than 9V, the battery is weak(lost it's torque). New battery time. Make sure the connections are good and tight before testing. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
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| Rotorhead |
Don't skimp on a new battery if you must replace it. I did and ended up buying 2, but now the lawn mower has a new battery. I ended up replacing mine about 55,000 miles so it could be time. Make sure it is a Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) not a sealed lead one. It's hard to beat the quality of the stock HD battery. say what you will about the HD company, the only thing they have gotten right lately is a good battery supplier. Any "14" size AGM will deliver the CCA the ULY draws | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
just bought the meter.... but the battery is bout dead. I have it on the charger.... 1 test coming up | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Well it only got up to about 12.7 at 5000 rpm the battery didn't drop that far when I fired it up. I repeated the test on the TT and it showed 13.5 to over 14 at 2000 rpm. I took the inspection cover off and stuck my nose in and didn't smell anything to fried. I'm thinking Voltage Regulator. Time to get the service manual out to see how to do that | ||
| Froggy |
Wolfie, swap the batteries. If it is doing the same low voltage while in the TT, then the battery is the issue. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Can't hurt... I'll do that tomorrow. | ||
| Rotorhead |
do the stator out put test before you feel it is the regulator. each of the 3 legs that come off the stator put's out I think (someone with the shop manual correct me) 30 volts DC. If each leg doesn't put out the required 30VDC? the regulator will not output the 13-14VDC. one of the fields were dead in mine so it only put enough power out to run but not charge the battery back. I'd get like 4 starts and that was it but the lights and everything else worked fine. there is a troubleshooting procedure in the manual just for the stator. I replaced a REG thinking the same VR thing for the 3rd time and found out $85 later it was a stator. BTW if you have to swap either the stator or the VR the wires are all black so make sure you mark them. I have a back up VR now. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
My 77 connector went bad about a month ago. I wonder if it may have fried the VR didn't they come out with a retro fit connector and VR for the '06 models? | ||
| Rays |
Updated replacement regulator – part number Y1302.02A8. This regulator is supplied with Voltage regulator Connector Service kit Y1312.02A8. | ||
| Ratbuell |
First tip (at least on my tuber) - leave the VR hooked up to start the bike, THEN unplug it. They (again, at least not my S2) don't start with the VR unplugged. When my 77 went, I rode it for about 2 hours before a fix (we were on the way back from ResRide, had no choice). I fixed it (replaced with screw terminals), and everything has been perfect since. As to whether a 77 can kill a VR...depends on how long you ride with it like that. Fortunately, I have the Kuryakyn voltmeter on my GPS mount so I "saw" the problem before any symptoms manifested at all. My S2 (same voltmeter, on the dash) wasn't charging either. Did the stator test (I want to say the book called for 30-42VAC at 2000rpm on each leg), one leg was a *hair* low - like 40 instead of 42. Replaced the VR, been perfect since. May need a stator in the future...but not yet  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Mid Ohio is this weekend and I wanted to ride the Uly... but It looks like the TT will get some miles | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Voltage regulator on backorder...  | ||
| Sekalilgai |
Mark... Just saw this...I've a NOS regulator (with old connector) which can be modified for the new Deutsch connector if ya want.... Ken | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
it should be in next week.... the TT is fun... its just not a Uly  | ||
| Ratbuell |
so...pull the TT's VR and put it on the Uly while you wait for the new one. | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
The Uly got hard wired when the 77 connector went bad.... Its no biggie, I just miss the easy wheelie | ||
| Ratbuell |
Ahah. That's why I did my 77 this way:   I learned years ago...even if it's a poor connector you're replacing, there's a connector there for a reason. I make sure to keep the "disconnect-ability", even if I upgrade the design  | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Where did ya get that? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Home Depot. I wanna say plumbing, near the well stuff...but might have been an aisle over in electrical. It's a four-way plastic holder with four of the screw terminal things. I slid two out and did the Uly. Couple weeks later the VR went on the S2 and the new VR had a different plug than the chassis....so in went a third one of these Now I have one left...what to splice, what to splice.... And yes, that's un-shrunk heat shrink tubing just below the connectors. I did seal 'em up LOL | ||
| Wolfridgerider |
Well the V/R is in... woo HOO... I hope a nice long test ride is in my future! |
