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Timmins_xb12x
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 06:46 pm: |
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07 XB12X Just finished removing the wheels for new Metzeler M6 skins. Is there an easier way to remove the front wheel than the service manual method? I finally got the wheel off after much cursing and scratching the spokes. Frustrated in Canada |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 07:36 pm: |
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What I do is loosen or take out all the needed bolts first..... loosen the pinch bolts, take off the front fender, take out the caliper bolts. Grasp the front wheel with the left hand and remove the axle with the right. as the axle comes out, lift the wheel up toward the motor. Once the axle is out, switch grip and remove the caliper with the left hand..... It would be a lot easier to show ya.... (Message edited by wolfridgerider on July 18, 2010) |
Timmins_xb12x
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 08:52 pm: |
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The trouble with the service manual method is with the brake caliper, they make no mention of removing the caliper. 1. Remove al fender bits. 2. lift the wheel up until the caliper is clear. 3.Rotate the fork leg CCW and pull the wheel out. It is nearly impossible to lift the wheel high enough to clear the caliper. |
Gamdh
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:04 pm: |
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Do that only try turning the handlebars (carefully) all the way left before lifting the wheel... that gives you more room to work with. |
Andrejs2112
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:08 pm: |
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Wait till you have to put it back on! |
Timmins_xb12x
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:29 pm: |
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Why not remove the troublesome caliper 1st, then remove the wheel without having to lift it clear and rotate the fork leg ?? I am not looking forward to installing the front tomorrow when the new skins are on. |
Gamdh
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:44 pm: |
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You can... I have had the front wheel off my '06 8-10 times ... have done it both ways. |
Wolfridgerider
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:45 pm: |
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Why not remove the troublesome caliper 1st not enough room. Its easy once ya get the hang of it. Off and back on in 5 minutes by myself at the track... but I didn't give a .... if I dinged the wheel or anything else for that matter. I re-read my post and I said rotor when I meant caliper. Once you have the bolts out of the caliper you only need to lift the wheel a little for it to clear. You'll get the hang of it. It just takes a few times |
Gamdh
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 09:53 pm: |
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What Wolf said.... Thats what I was trying to imply when I said 'you can'.. you can remove the caliper bolts (but not the actual caliper). That makes it much easier. Also thinking I've losened the top caliper bolt and removed the bottom (like changing brake pads). That provided a little extra clearance without worrying about banging a loose caliper around on the wheel.. (Message edited by gamdh on July 18, 2010) |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, July 18, 2010 - 11:19 pm: |
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Go to your local theatrical supply store, or a music (like musicians music, not records and CDs) store, and get a roll of "gaffers" tape. It's pricey...but awesome stuff. It's a cloth tape, tears easily both off the roll and into strips if you only need a narrow piece (like to protect a spoke). You can mask off anything you want to protect, it's nice an thick and durable, it sticks to just about anything...but does NOT leave residue like duct tape. Which reminds me...I used the last of my roll the other day, time to get a fresh one... |
Timmins_xb12x
| Posted on Tuesday, July 20, 2010 - 08:55 pm: |
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Thanks for all your advice, the trick was to remove the bottom caliper bolt, loosen the top. This makes it much easier to get the wheel over the caliper and get the wheel in place. Back on the road with new Metzeler M6 on both ends. Previous Stradas lasted 16,000Km but were overdue. |
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