G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through October 28, 2009 » Poor running ULY « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Chalupa
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 10:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

My 06 Uly is NOT running properly. I have had TPS reset and replaced plugs. It backfires during hard acceleration in all gears and stumbles while cruising down the road even after its warmed up, plus it makes alot of noise not from exhaust? I have Drummer exhaust and race ECM with high flow filter. I am looking at ECMSPY, but don't think I will be able to figure that out?? I'm in southeastern WI if there is anyone that may be able to help??
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Vic_647
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 11:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

What kind of noise (not from exhaust)?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Chalupa
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 11:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

It sounds like LOUD chatter from airbox, I don't know where it's coming from exactly, just sounds like lots of noise and it's not coming from exhaust??
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

70_west
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Mine makes the same noise... Not detonation... Just a lot of noise from the top end. I don't think it's coming from the air box or cooling fan. 'Tis an unusual sound, but the bike runs very well when warm. Even so, the racket doesn't abate.

Jack
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Vic_647
Posted on Monday, October 26, 2009 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How many miles on the bike and is the oil good shape?

How do you normally drive the bike? Hard, cruising/commuting, rarely?

Are you running premium gas?

Is the loud chatter like metal parts hitting each other or is it a ping (pre-ignition detonation)?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Chalupa
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 08:41 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I run Synthetic oil and it's less than 1K old, I have 10K on bike, I normally ride cruising and occasionally get on it. I put 6K miles on it this year. I always run premium gas. The noise is like shuffling cards or a card in the spokes, like a really loud flutter plus I get constant stumbling while cruising after warmed up and backfiring while accelerating??????????
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Electraglider_1997
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Both times I've used ECMSpy to reset the TPS, at 10,000 and at 21,000, I had to do it a few times to get it right. Don't know why or what I was doing wrong but I would have to go through the procedure at least 3 times before the engine would run worth a crap. But when I got it right it sure ran nice. Then to keep the idle from floating I'd have to set it down to no more than 1000 rpms.
As for airbox noise: My intake noise is really loud since I swiss cheesed the entire airbox cover some time ago. My bike always runs like a top and just hammers when I twist the throttle.
One thing you didn't tell us is if the bike ran fine or crappy before you reset the TPS. Make sure your air filter is seated correctly onto the air box base plate. Make sure your spark plugs are seated and not ready to blow out of the head. And most importantly make sure you don't have cards flapping in your spokes.
Did you do the TPS reset and the plug change or someone else? Did you gap the plugs correctly?

(Message edited by electraglider_1997 on October 27, 2009)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jphish
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

You have to use the heavy duty clothes pins for the cards. Also: some have said you must reset TPS when engine is WARM, not cold. I didn't know that - I don't think the manual specifies either way.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Electraglider_1997
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Go out and warm up the ULY and then when you have it back in the garage, hook it to ECMSpy. Notice whether it is in Open Loop or Closed Loop. If it is in Open Loop that is because the rear head Electronic Temperature Sensor hasn't gotten warm enough to go to Closed Loop ECM control. I think it ticks over to Closed Loop when the ETS reports 361 F. Keep the engine running to get it warm enough for Closed Loop before doing the TPS reset. It does not state this in the service manual but I believe this is good advice because then you'll know that your bike is warm enough for the reset. Maybe someone else will chime in whether this makes sense. That may have been why I struggled with the TPS reset. I never noticed the ECMSpy Open Loop changing to Closed Loop until last time I did a reset at over 20,000 miles and that was after doing the reset probably 3 times before it was done right.
Bike runs on Open Loop fuel control from start up until ETS sends signal to ECM that engine is hot enough to run off Oxygen Sensor in rear exhaust pipe and then it changes over to Closed Loop control. More to it than that but that is gist of Open VS Closed Loop control as I understand it.

(Message edited by electraglider_1997 on October 27, 2009)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Vic_647
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Like Electraglider said, check the plugs. If they ARE seated correctly, then it's probably time for a compression test. Sounds like you're leaking somewhere during the compression stroke, which will probably be a plug or an intake valve. Let's all hope you've got a loose plug...

While you're down there, also check your exhaust header fit-up. Don't think it'll be an issue, but worth a check.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Electraglider_1997
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Spark plugs come with a collapsible washer. I tighten the spark plug until it is snug and then a bit more to collapse the washer and no more. That rear plug can be a bear to even get at let alone start the threads correctly. If it doesn't feel right then it probably is cross threading which is not something you want to do. Take your time.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Etennuly
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

A couple things to add to Electro's post. I have done the TPS reset unsuccessfully a couple of times on two 06's. In both cases cleaning the throttle plate helped a lot.

Another thing to look for is a cap or plug on the vertical vacuum port on the right side of the throttle housing. At different times I have had to replace two of them on different bikes. It seems like a backfire could have blown it off.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Chalupa
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 11:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

THANK YOU to each of you, I found the problem and wish it were a clothes pin holding a card in the spokes.....The two bolts that are supposed to hold on front header pipe are sheared off at head, so header is not attached to engine. I just had it in for service last month! Not sure how this could happen and I'm guessing it's gonna be EXPENSIVE to fix!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Vic_647
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 12:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

The two studs that the flange attaches to?

I'd be tempted to spray them with PB Blaster n let em sit for a day. Then (carefully) center punch the remaining stud, drill with about an 1/8" or even a 3/16" bit (Don't go too deep!) and run an EZ-out on it...

If you attempt this, take your time, don't get too carried away with the EZ-out. Shouldn't have too much trouble with it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Vic_647
Posted on Tuesday, October 27, 2009 - 12:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hey Chalupa,

PM sent...
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration