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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through July 24, 2009 » Sumbitch « Previous Next »

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Hdbobwithabuell
Posted on Tuesday, July 21, 2009 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I was just way to happy about getting a new belt, idler pulley and muffler under warranty with no hassles from the dealer when...

I pulled rear wheel to replace tire (at 10k mind you). First thing I notice is that I'm putting WAY to much weight on the wrench to get the axle broke loose. So much weight that I go get a longer breaker bar and bounce my 260 pounds on it a couple times.

I don't see any real harm except the bearing spacer is obviously NOT round anymore.
What the $!#@ is so hard about following simple instructions???!!

The bearings seem ok so I think I'll reinstall the wheel and ride until I can get a puller/installer, new bearings and spacer. I don't even want these clowns doing warranty work anymore.
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Scooter808484
Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I'm sure you remembered to loosen the pinch bolt didn't you?

Sometimes people forget that....don't ask me how I know.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 11:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Don't forget to anti-seize that axle shaft. It will keep your axle from corroding and makes removal a breeze.
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Hdbobwithabuell
Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 11:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I took the pinch bolt almost all the way out. (Yeah, I've tried to remove an axle without loosing the pinch bolt before too LOL)

The axle had a good coat of anti-seize, just torqued WAY to tight.
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Scooter808484
Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 06:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If you figure what to use as an installer, let me know. My normal threaded rod with fender washers didn't work too well. couldn't get them to pull in straight. figured next time I'd try some sockets to center things up.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Scooter- I used the ~$10 bearing install kit from Harbor Freight. It comes with a series of tools called "collars" sized to fit inside the bearing I.D. and with a flat surface that's approximately as large as the O.D. of the outer race (see recent threads on bearings- it's important that pressure be applied to inner and outer race equally). The kit comes with a driver handle that fits in a ~1/2" diameter hole in the collar. I chilled my bearings and tapped them into place using the tool with a hammer. I believe you could use the threaded rod with the collar just as well.

I don't see the $10 kit like I bought listed any more; this is the closest thing I see (~$30):

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem. taf?Itemnumber=95853

My kit has plastic collars while this one has aluminum collars.
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Hughlysses
Posted on Wednesday, July 22, 2009 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Hdbobwithabuell- The problem is that the spacer is likely too short now so that the bearings are being side-loaded at all times. See the recent post by Al Lighton; there's a wheel bearing thread in the "New Uly Owner Tips" thread linked at the top of the main BB&D page. When you get new bearings, you might as well order a new spacer too.
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