| Author | Message | ||
     Cowtown |
Has anyone replaced their front brake master cylinder with an after-market brand that uses a remote reservoir, the white round type you see on many bikes? If so, what brand, where did you get it and how much? Thanks. | ||
| Justin_case |
Cowtown, be aware that changing master cyl. bore diameter can drastically affect brake power & sensitivity. Reducing bore size will increase power and vice versa. | ||
| Twowheeldream |
What is the stock master cylinder bore for the tubers? anyone know? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
You might want to consider the Shindy 14mm Master Cylinder Brake Kit, 14mm. The part number is: 17652. These are available from Dennis Kirk. The DK part number is :193154. Price $146.99 It is important NOT to use a master cylinder of a larger diameter than 14mm. The stock unit has a 1/2" diameter cylinder. Using the typical Japanese sport bike unit, which is normally 5/8", will require a much greater force on the brake lever than stock. Here is the unit mounted on my 2004 Lightning. Please note that the CRG lever shown in the photo will NOT fit unless it is modified.  PS: The handlebars shown are Tomaselli Adjustable Clubman's on custom risers, with Buell Traction Grips and HMVP bar ends. | ||
| Bomber |
Jon -- can you please describe the mods to the brake lever? | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
I just knew someone was going to ask that!   The modifications are: 1. A set screw, I think it was a 1/4 -20, is installed in the top of the jaws to push the lever back, and make it fit properly. The jaws were drilled and tapped through the web, and the set screw was installed using a medium threadblocker, (blue). 2. The inner part of the lever that compresses the master cylinder is recontoured to move the contact point away from the pivot, closer to the center of the piston, and to allow the lever to move back so one can grip it normally. 3. Not shown is a thin shim over the brake light switch, about 1/32" thick. The purpose of these mods is fourfold. 1. The "jaws" of this lever are too wide as supplied by CRG. 2. The position of them causes the lever to be too far forward. 3. The part of the jaws that activate the master cylinder is too far from the center of the piston. 4. The brake light will activate too soon. Disclaimer: This could be bit tricky for some home mechanics, and failure to get everything just right could cause the brake to malfunction resulting in a crash, injury, death or worse. So -don't try this at home, unless you are feeling lucky, ok? If you do insist on going ahead with this mod, ( and frankly, who can resist those CRG levers?), you might think about doing what I did, which was to practice on the Stock Buell, (not the stock Shindy lever) which has the same dimensions as the CRG lever. If you get it right, you will have a spare lever as well. | ||
| Bomber |
GJ -- thanks a million -- I've been drooling over the aftermarket, remote reservoir master cylinders, but didn't want to give up my CRG levers on my MaDuece . . . . . . thanks for running point! | ||
| Rocketman |
If you go with the (more recent) talked about ISR set-up from Sweden, they make an all in one unit with reservoir, or more to your liking a remote reservoir set-up. Matt (Trojan) has this on his race Buell. There are two bore sizes available. Off the top of my head, 14mm and 17.5mm but don't quote me. The thing is though, the ISR set-up is adjustable for lever span as well as applied effort so you can have the lever anywhere you like with progressive feel or instant - like it used to be on the early S1 - or anywhere in between. Rocket | ||
| Gentleman_jon |
Right you are, Rocket! The ISR system is very nice, if a bit spendy . The clutch lever and perch is $146, and the front brake master cylinder and lever is $283. To that you need to add a remote reservoir and shipping all together you are almost at $500.   Actually, that is not a bad value since the Shindy Front master cylinder and the CRG levers cost about $327 plus shipping. The IRS's are very well done, but getting replacement levers could be a bit of a problem and rather expensive here in the USA. Wish I had a set. There, I said it. | ||
| Diablobrian |
I'm liking the ISR radial brake master cylinder myself. Good stuff, and I never fall over on that side (knock on wood). I'd order one of the "chunky" clutch levers I've seen on ebay to get a closer match than stock to the ISR brake without breaking the bank if I fall over on that side. | ||
| Rocketman |
Jon, I should have said. Matt sells the ISR stuff. Here's Matt's race bike set-up. Note his cheap reservoir   Speaking of reservoirs. The Ducati 916 ones are very neat and cheap too. Me, when I finally get my ISR stuff I'm going with a length of clear plastic tube with a stopper. Pukka racer stuff see! None of those fancy billet reservoirs needed. Rocket | ||
| Cowtown |
Thanks to all, for the information and advice. | ||
| Pdhockey31 |
is there a way to just change out the reservoir whichout changing the entire master cylinder assembly? (Message edited by pdhockey31 on February 26, 2007) |
