| Author | Message | ||
     Dark_Ninja |
Thanks for the hand Dave...but it's the specifications I am after. :D No one knows the correct weight or amount? Nobody changes the fork oil? I find THAT hard to believe around here!!!  | ||
| Peter |
Dark Ninja, I could tell you what I put in mine, but I have an M2 with normal forks, not an S3........ PPiA | ||
| Spiked |
Anyone know the procedure on changing fork seals? My '99 M2 needs new ones. While I'm in there, has anyone experimented with heavier weight fork oil? Thanks in advance. Spike D. | ||
| Witchburner |
Thanks a lot Leeaw, Aaron The tips proved useful, after a discussion with Harley Davidson Sweden they still refused to replace the shock.. domestic (USA) solution they said... I'm the stubborn type though, so I phoned BMC Customer Support and the guy who I spoke with said that this was a WW solution... (why the heck is HD Sweden getting "cheap" on me??) so the guy promised to help me out if HD Sw still refuses. There seems to be a solution to my shock problem thanks to the above listed... If I didn't know better, I might settle for the SRP kit!! So again, Thanks a lot!! WB | ||
| Bandm |
Fuell Shock Article Online http://www.buell.com/edge/bragfuellarticle1.asp Mark | ||
| Chuck |
hey everybody, I own a 2000 M2 with the "replacement" rear shock. Can anyone tell me what the vertical rear wheel travel is? Is it different from the 4.6 inches listed for the old shock? | ||
| Supermod |
Greetings- I saw a 96-S1 at the local harley shop, lowered 2 1/2 in front and rear. Looks like a ok deal for the street, but maybe not so good in the canyons. My 95 s2 is too tall for me and i would like to lower it but not so drastically. Has anyone done this and could you give me some child guidance? I know Tat has the 1" bracket. Thanks, Clay | ||
| Randry |
Another trip to the Peoria TT, another torn isolator. I have seen some where on here a procedure (short cut) to install isolators. Can anybody tell me where it's at ? Thanks Randry | ||
| Aaron |
Yes ... take it to the dealer and they'll do it for free. | ||
| Randry |
I'm talking with my dealer. But dealers tend to have 1 pace. I'm doing the track day at Homecoming, it's not far off. Just getting a little nervous about getting it done in a timely fashion. I may need a back up plan. I'm trying to talk with Buell directly. We'll see what happens. | ||
| Randry |
I'm talking with my dealer, but dealers tend to have 1 pace. I'm doing the track day at Homecoming, it's not far off. Just getting a little nervous about getting it done in a timely fashion. I may need a back up plan. I'm trying to talk with Buell directly. We'll see what happens. | ||
| Caboose |
Here's a question for you fast guys out there. What are your suspension settings. My preload is at the high end of the suggested sag, around 15.5 inches, rebound front and rear one turn out from max, rear compression is 0.75 out from max, front compression is 1 turn out from max. During aggresive cornering my rear brake pedal touches down. On the left, the kick stand. I'm pretty sure more rear prelaod will help but my dealer doesn't have the "new" shock wrench set yet. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Caboose, If your in a hurry to adjust your shock, just buzz on over to your local Home Depot or other well stocked hardware type place and pick up one of these wrenches. About $25.00, it fits both nuts on the shock and it will also do the front and rear axel nuts! Use this link to see a picture from a previous post. Click Here Brad | ||
| Caboose |
Thanks Brad....that was real helpful. I never thought of using a RIDGID e-series. It's a bunch cheaper than the BMC wrench too! | ||
| V2win |
Yeah,its real gentle on your bike too. Only leaves a few marks each time you use it. You guys are too much. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
V2win, Look closely, it's a smooth jaw. No teeth. No marks. | ||
| V2win |
Ummm, OK. Useful as far as a tool box item but you would still need a lighter tool to carry on the bike. (you never know when you might want to give some fat girl a ride)  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Yeah your right, it's a bit on the heavy side. I did have it in my bag on the Colorado trip, but I packed it low in one of the saddle bags. I just wish the lighter wrench versions weren't so spendy. Brad | ||
| Eastbloc |
New to the Buell world. Got a 2000 M2 to replace the decaying BMW R1200C in my garage. Also have a '95 Ducati 900SS, an '01 BMW R1150GS, a Ural hack, and a moderate amount of experience on the road. I'll sheepishly admit to only having 330 miles on my Cyclone thus far. But already I'm puzzling over the suspension. The chassis seems nice and stiff. Enter a turn, though, and vagueness ensues. Out of the dealer, the forks and shock felt set up like from an 80's UJM. The manual states, in a nutshell, that one should stray from the factory fork settings at one's own peril. I took the rebound up a quarter-turn and that made the front a bit better. Not perfect. Not a 900SS, oh, definitely not -- but I can't expect that. I'm still hoping for improvement there. But far more urgent is the rear. I have the 2001 shock. With the rebound turned up half a turn from factory, it still felt like there was no rear wheel; like some magical force is suspending you in the back and occasionally lowering and raising your ass end in a turn. Of course, with the sensitive steering geometry, such fluctuations in the rear do not inspire confidence chassis-wide -- little 'boings' in the rear make the front squiggly... So the question is, for you M2 riders out there who have owned other sport bikes, what have you done to your suspension settings and/or aftermarket components (don't much feel like spending $800-$1100 on Penske shocks, thank you very much, though if someone wants to sell an aftermarket shock I'd be interested) to make it stiffer? I don't really care about ride comfort. It's a totally secondary consideration. My damn huge foot keeps scraping the pavement, too. It's hard to get out of the habit of keeping it under the shifter. On the 900SS, I can use it as an early-warning sensor before hard parts start dragging. Mind you, that rarely happens. On the M2, I've already worked up a nice beveled edge on my engineer boots. Help me out here, Buellers. I really want to enjoy this bike! Kris sysop, http://discussion.org | ||
| Blake |
Kris: If your M2 isn't handling well enough to adeptly handle a corner and you aren't grinding pegs, and from the description you give, it sounds like your rear preload is way weak.... #1: Make sure preload/sag/squat is within spec front and rear; same goes for tire pressures (measure/adjust when tires are cold). #2: Lose the mongo boots and get yourself some decent sport riding boots. Upshift before or after entering the corner. When not shifting or braking, try resting the balls rather than the arches of your feet on the pegs. You also might ensure that the final drive belt is not overtight. Also check your rear isolators for any tears. How much do you weigh? I'm around 210 LB and have my rear preload nearly maxed on my '00 M2. Are the corners where you notice the unsettling handling bumpy/rough or generally smooth? Good luck, let us know what you find. The M2 really should handle nearly on par with your Duc. | ||
| Eastbloc |
Figured it out. My new '00 did not have the '01 shock, but it had the compression damping set to the '01 spec. So I had floppy-ass compression. Took it back to the dealer, Harley of Edison, who was very concerned, and knocked out the problem on the spot, even let me borrow a Dyna Low Rider, which is a whole 'nother can of worms (I may have to buy a big twin at some point in the future. Damn motorcycle habit!) It's also a bit of an adjustment one has to make to get used to an upright 'sportbike'. The handlebars are very, very sensitive and being used to application of muscle from riding my 900SS I had no idea how to approach the Buell for maximum effect. Oddly, I never had that problem on any of the Monsters that I rode -- I was comfortable on those from the first ride. Regardless, now it is "big grin time", because the bike handles like it should, and so does the rider. Thanks!!! Chris | ||
| Blake |
Chris/Kris: Get the new shock. The 2000 and prior shocks are under recall. Does your shock have the SRP? Did you check the preload/sag too? | ||
| Eastbloc |
Hmmm. Guess I'm not doing so well if I can't even get my name straight. ;) Got the new shock. Feels great. Love the bike. 'nuff said. [Ch][K]ris | ||
| Blake |
So you do have the '01 shock? So what was the problem then? Please set the record straight on this one. | ||
| Mikej |
'95 S2 front isolator replacement. I remember someone saying the procedure has changed from various models service manuals for changing the front engine mount isolator. My S2 service manual, and a local dealer mechanic, basically say to just support the bike and engine, remove the long main bolt thru the center of the isolator, remove the two bolts holding the isolator assembly to the frame, then remove the old isolator. Put in the new one, install a new main bolt loosely, reinstall the two small bolts snugly, then torque the main bolt to about 100FtLbs. There is something about locktite as well. Is the '95 service manual instructions correct? My front isolator has developed the tell-tale "thunk" when hitting big bumps or ditches in the roadway (they're building new apartments here and dug a ditch across the access road and haven't repaved it yet and the gravel filling has settled some. I'm now going much slower over it.). I'll probably order the parts, or see what's in local stock next week and will tackle the job then. Also, do I have to replace that $35-$45 machined washer on top as well? Thanks for any feedback. Mike("thunk")J | ||
| Henrik |
Mike; are you sure that is an isolator "thunk"? Could be either "fork-bottoming-out" or "loose/shot-steering-head-bearing" thunks as well?? Just a thought Henrik | ||
| Mikej |
I'm pretty sure, but I'll do a little playing around with it on Tuesday. I tried the front low speed brake test and didn't get any movement on the steering head that I could tell. And it didn't feel like the forks were bottoming out, but I'll go hit the bump again and hang off to watch and see if it hits bottom. I think I'll change out the primary fluid/lube next weekend. Maybe while I have it on the centerstand I'll slip a jack under the front to relieve the weight on the forks and do a tug/push test as well. The isolator does have a start of a horizontal separation at what appears to be the injection mold separation line on the rubber though. I've only put about a 1,000 miles on the bike so far in the first week of having it. | ||
| Chauly |
Now that I have adjusted the preload to nearly the max to compensate for my fat ass, I lost some non-too-generous ride height. Does anyone know of an offset mount that will restore it? | ||
| Blake |
Chauly: You "lost" ride height? You should have "gained" ride height as you increased preload. Max preload would take up all threads on rear of shock (make shock shorter). Minimum would expose all threads (make shock longer). | ||
| Chauly |
That sounds backwards. The shock is pulled as it is stroked, so the spring inside the can is compressed. Increasing preload partially compresses the spring, lengthening it and losing ride height. It feels stiffer now, but a little lower. Do I have it backwards, again?:-) |
