| Author | Message | ||
     Hippyjoe |
Got a sheet of generic glass packing from the local Jap bike shop, in stock for 5.99. Fit my alu VH can perfectly... had to cut off a little extra on the end.  On the left is the old packing, it fell out in 3 or 4 chunks. On the right is the new, Moose brand. In the middle are the tools I used for the job, a mallet and an allen wrench. Can had been on the bike untouched for at least 3 years. I also pulled the end cap off the internal baffle to remove the factory packing sandwiched in the end.  I wasted a half-hour trying to sandwich the new sheet in there like the factory job. Couldn't get it buttoned up. So I reassembled the baffle and butted the sheet down to the end. Wrapped it tight with masking tape under baling wire. Since I had the can off for a primary service, the actual time to repack was under a half hour. Bike is somewhat quieter, just about perfect for my tastes. I guess more mellow would best describe the sound. Before repack it had a bit of a bark under throttle. It still barks under hard throttle, just not obnoxiously. Idle also sounds quieter. I recently did a clutch upgrade and an ignition upgrade, so I can't attest to any feeling of power change. It's definitely not slower. Just sounds better. | ||
| Jayvee |
Yeah my V&H is due I think, this is good information. Will the masking tape 'burn off' or is the temperature to low to cook it? Could you explain more about you couldn't make it like the factory? What did you change, or did you just install it a different way, but it wound up the same? | ||
| Hippyjoe |
Hey Jayvee, glad somebody got something out of this! The masking tape was suggested to me by the shop where I bought the glass. I asked the same question and they said it wouldn't burn off. I strung baling wire over the tape just to be sure. Seems like a good combination, the tape may keep the wire from cutting through the insulation. Sorry for the crappy pics, I can't load them any bigger here. The internal baffle, when you pull it out, is attached to the stainless tail outlet pipe by 3 allen screws. When they build these at the factory they have the skill (machine?) to sandwich the end of the fiberglass packing between the end of the baffle and the tail, and screw it back together. I thought it would be good to replicate that assembly but I couldn't screw it back together after a half hour of fiddling with it. I was kind of defeating the purpose anyway b/c I had to cut access holes in the glass to get the screws and allen wrench in. So I screwed the tail back on to the baffle and just butted the wrap all the way down to the tail. Zenfrogmaster here has done that job before and he told me to quit being anal and just put it together. And he's pretty particular about what he puts on his bike  As I understand it there are a few different VH cans in service. Mine is the aluminum SS2R with 4 allen screws that let the baffle slide out. Jayvee, your profile says you have a Penske shock, how do you like it? | ||
| Dave |
For the older Buell Race can, I found the ceramic packing from American Sport Bike a better value. The regular fiberglass packing just didn't last (maybe 1000-1500 miles). Plus drilling out the pop-rivets. The ceramic material (~$20?) has lasted maybe 10 times longer. DAve | ||
| Jayvee |
Well I gave up on my V&H SS2R after riding the other day, it was just so loud when "on the pipe" that it's affecting how I ride. So last night started a multi-part conversion: to the "updated" front exhaust mounting bracket; and then change to a stock exhaust; also need to put a chin fairing mounting bracket on the front shock bolt, so, doing it all now. HippyJoe, I bought the bike used, it came with the Penske shock, so no 'stock' to compare to. I got the 6-pos. remote adjuster. It was set up a little stiff, after downloading the manual from Penske site, I turned the compression damping down to 1 (all the way) and backed out the rebound screw about 5 full turns. Now it's much better, still pretty firm, I will probably take down the rebound another 5 when I think about it. I wish I could adjust it all the way to "plush" but I guess that would take an internal stack change ("rebuild")I'm just not ready for that yet. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Jackie, Do you want to get rid of the V&H? I need one for a project if the price is right.. Brad | ||
| Jayvee |
Bluzm2, I will hang on to it until sure I don't want to go back (never know)...after that, yes, I was going to 'put it on the block'...as they say. | ||
| Djkaplan |
The repack kit I got from American Sport Bike burst open when I tried to slip it over the perforated core - to the size of a 33 gallon garbage bag. I fought for an hour to wrap it around the core and tape it down with some 4" industrial black tape. Then I had to shove the whole thing back together. I spent another hour doing that. At least the packing material didn't leave me itchy and scratchy like fiberglass does. Still... not in a real big hurry to do that again. | ||
| Hippyjoe |
...burst open when I tried to slip it over the perforated core - to the size of a 33 gallon garbage bag.... I fought for an hour.... Have any pics? lol Jayvee, a friend just picked up an S2 with a loud VH, I'll be repacking the can. I'll post here on the results. Thanks for the beta on the Penske, lmk if you ever want to sell it. I could trade you for my updated factory shock plus some dough. Can you get a yellow spring for those, and how hard is it to get it apart? Prolly just a shop press and a spanner? My bike wasn't loud to start with, so maybe different cans have a different sound. If I can get the S2 to quiet down then I'll consider it a success. The can on it sounds like a hollow echo chamber. I can see why people wouldn't like it. | ||
| Al_lighton |
The race can packing kit tube that you slide the packing off of, onto the inner baffle tube, is a little easier than the V&H. It is best to wrap some tape on the sharp edges of the baffle tube prior to sliding the packing tube onto it. Al |
