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Misato
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 12:09 pm: |
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when they say fill the air lock half way, does that mean half way on both sides? so 1 1/2 balls on each side. (Message edited by misato on October 13, 2004) |
Misato
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 12:13 pm: |
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and thanks for all the info.. I like ambers.. so one could add sugar to the primary fermentor to raise the %? Ive seen the kits for the cider with different flavors, I thought they just used an extract for the fruit. (easiser?) Is the process pretty much the same as brewing beer? last nite it was making alot more bubbles out the air lock, more of a build up, then release a bunch. Do I have to much water in the air lock? |
Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 12:39 pm: |
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I'm not a beer drinker so I'm not real bothered about the ins'& outs of brewing, but does anyone have a homebrew Scotch kit I can buy? |
Hootowl
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 12:44 pm: |
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I think if you put too much water in the lock, it'll just overflow. The pressure in the vessel is more than enough to blow through the water, even if you fill it all the way up. Just make sure it doesn't ever get empty. When the yeast really takes hold, quite a bit of foam may come out, which could purge the air lock of its water. Depends on how full you filled the fermenter though, the foam may not make it that far up. Kinda why I like the carboys. They direct the foam out better, which carries a lot of the bitter oils which float to the top out of your wert. |
Prof_stack
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 02:26 pm: |
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Funny, my best beers have had such an active fermentation that the crud came out through the airlock (like the one shown above). I just change airlocks until things settle down. Fill the airlock halfway with water. Good advice to not try to get things "perfect" when you're brewing at home. There are too many variables in your equipment, environment, and procedures to get things spot on. Having said that, once things get dialed in (like an XB suspension ) you'll feel like you've turned the corner from beginner to fanatical lea(r)ner. My fanatical days are way past, but the beer I make now is as good as what I can buy, except perhaps an on-tap (vom fass) beer in Germany.... Oh yeah, bleach is cheap, and effective. |
Misato
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 03:11 pm: |
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Misato
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 03:12 pm: |
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I need a polished alum holder for my Co2 bottle.. |
Misato
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 03:13 pm: |
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Kelly
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 04:10 pm: |
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Roger, After I move, I may be interested in some stuff if it's available. Kelly |
Prof_stack
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 06:28 pm: |
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Misato, nice setup. Consider getting a Xmas tree holder to put your CO2 in to keep it from tipping and cracking or breaking your gauges. Some people put the CO2 inside the kegorator. Sometimes there is a back ledge inside that will work. My old kegorator (holds 4 Corny's) has a ledge and a spring to wrap around the CO2 to hold it in place. But then again I use a 20# "can" and it won't fit inside. Also, are your taps the kind that a cat could jump up and accidentally move and turn on? Or do they have a return spring? Finally, check your hose clamps twice a year. They do loosen. I once lost a keg of beer due to poor maintenance on my part. Hey, what's this got to do with Buells? |
Kelly
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 07:24 pm: |
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How hard is it to make a kegerator? How much is the Co2 setup? |
Roc
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 07:42 pm: |
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I pressed alot of cider this year and made/let some of it go hard. I also made some applejack. Cider is much easier than beer. The best cider I made just sat in the garage, 60-65 degrees, for 2-3 weeks. It is tart and was made from about 4-5 different types of apples. Buy the Alaskan Bootlegger's Bible, just don't follow about half of the directions. Trader Joes has non-pasturized cider. |
Prof_stack
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 09:31 pm: |
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Kelly, most welding supply stores have CO2 cans (ask for beverage grade) you can borrow. Or you could (and should, for that matter) go to a homebrew supply store and ask about getting a CO2 setup (5# can, gasket, gauge(s), hose, tap lines). Once you bought it you got it. Then you swap the CO2 can when you get a filled-up one. Lasts quite a while if you have no leaks. Pretty cheap, too. Better than bottling. Kegoraters can be purchased new but are pricey. Check the want ads or go to a used appliance store. Sometimes an old fridge will work if you safely drill holes to the front to install the taps. But you have to know where to drill.
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Misato
| Posted on Wednesday, October 13, 2004 - 09:36 pm: |
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they are pretty easy to make, my whole setup was about 800.00, but thats including the new fridge and 2 kegs, tower with 2 spouts and everything. The twin tower was like 200 by itself... $100 will get you a fridge conversion kit no, mine dont have a spring on them, that would be nice.. |
2k4xb12
| Posted on Thursday, October 14, 2004 - 12:08 am: |
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Instead of water, I prefer to use Vodka in the airlock. Water will not provide any sanitation to the air that might get sucked in. Rubbing alcohol will change the taste of the beer if it gets sucked in itself. Vodka will sanitize any air that gets through, and will not change the taste of the beer if it happens go get in. Only fill to the top of the lower ball. This will help to ensure that the liquid (be it water, or Vodka) does not get sucked in or be belched out. Also, I agree with Hootowl -- use carboys. Use a 6G for primary and 5G for secondary (you need to use 6G for primary due to the amount of foam). Also, on the subject of kegerators -- don't make the same mistake I did -- I bought cheap -- I got a model that's the same for several different brands (Sanyo, Summit, etc.). The problem is that the tower is not chilled. This allows the beer line within the tower to warm up a bit (even though the tower is insulated). This results in alot of foam. I recently sold my Summit and broke down and bought a Beverage Air kegerator. It's a very good commercial quality unit with an air chilled tower. Unlike the cold plate low cost types (like the Summit), this one works like a real refrigerator -- it has an evaporator and forced air. It's pricier than the $400 cold plate styles, but it works so much better. It lists for around $3000, but I found the best price through Micro Matic. http://www.micromatic.com/product.php?pid=BM23 I highly recommend it! (P.S. My kegerator is currently serving up Gordon Biersch Marzen) |
Mr_grumpy
| Posted on Saturday, October 16, 2004 - 06:51 am: |
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Why a beer is better than a woman You can enjoy a beer all month long Beer stains wash out You don't have to wine and dine a beer Your beer will always wait patiently for you in the car while you play football When your beer goes flat, you toss it out Beer never changes its mind A beer doesn't get jealous when you grab another beer Beer is never late Hangovers go away Beer labels come off without a fight Beer never has a headache When you go to a bar, you know you can always pick up a beer After you've had a beer, the bottle is still worth 10 cents A beer won't get upset if you come home and have another beer If you pour a beer right, you always get good head You can have more than one beer a night and not feel guilty A beer always goes down easy You can share a beer with your friends You always know when you are the first one to pop a beer Beer is always wet Beer doesn't demand quality You can have a beer in public A beer doesn't care when you come A frigid beer is a good beer You don't have to wash a beer before it tastes good If you change beers, you don't have to pay alimony
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Kelly
| Posted on Saturday, November 13, 2004 - 07:26 pm: |
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Misato, How many cubic feet is your fridge? Is it the typical dorm size that had the back ledge? I cant really tell from the pics. I took a leap and threw out all of my bottles when I moved so if I want to brew again (and I REALLY want to) I'll have to go the kegerator route... |
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